Taps 2 Problems

[14burrito]

So, I got everything working and calibrated the system, my problem now is that the plate doesn’t stay down when riding. There are no leaks in the system. Pump, actuator, & switch are new.

With TAP plate down, hydraulic unit should have 2" of fluid in the reservoir. Do you have the proper amount of fluid in there?

Also curious here about how you calibrated the gauge.

[Kiwicooley]

I went into the Settings menu and scrolled down to Taps Calibration. It then asked for me to put trim taps down. After doing that hit calibrate on the Tige Touch, then the second menu says put trim up (or vice versa) but after you do that then hit calibrate again and your good. Mine says 1 when its all the way down but only goes to 6 when all the way up. Swapped out the actuator housing today with a new a1200 and the housing seems to be different inside. Trim goes down now but doesn't fully retract. Going to give Bennett a call tomorrow and see what I need.

[Jetter]

Ah thanks for the reply. I didn`t realize your boat had the Tige touch screen. Our 08 boats don`t have that luxury. Which I knew how to calibrate our old analog resistance gauges.

[Kiwicooley]

Awww gotcha, didn’t realize you didn’t have Tige Touch. Sorry, I don’t much about Tiges in general until I recently had to to dissect my ASR that I just purchased.

[14burrito]

I'd like to bump this,
Messing around with the potentiometer I think I found my taps issue. The throttle linkage wore through some wiring.

My question here is,
The wiring in which is broken is a 2 insulated wire + 1 non insulated wire within a single harness. Pic attached.
The non insulted wire within is what broke.

Is this wiring correct?

Wires aren't green yellow but rather both green

[KoolAid]

All you need is a three wire setup. One carries power to the center post on the switch and the other two wires are the return power to the relay, when switch is pressed.

Odd you have a non insulated wire. Typically they were all three insulated.

[14burrito]

You can see the single "non" insulated wire that broke from within the sleeved 3-wire set.

At the transom, looks like the RAM was already replaced once before. The sleeved series of wires are butt connected back there, 2 insulated and 1 bare.

I'll try to bandaid to verify proper function....and work on a permanent fix.

[Jetter]

I would replace as much of that wire as you can. The two green ones going back to the pump don't matter which is which. You can reverse them and it makes no difference.

I have two issues with my newly calibrated Taps plate. Hoping KoolAid or another Taps expert can chime in with some help.

1 - Taps plate gets stuck and won't go UP on heavy load. By heavy load I mean ballasts full and someone surfing. It goes down but not up. If I slow down or stop it works fine.

2 - Pump seems to run for a good second or more before gauge starts coming down from 8. I need to get another person and test when it actually starts moving I guess. But I think I can tell when it's moving just by the sound. There seems to be some "play" at position 8 before the gauge starts coming down.

[chpthril]

All you need is a three wire setup. One carries power to the center post on the switch and the other two wires are the return power to the relay, when switch is pressed.

Odd you have a non insulated wire. Typically they were all three insulated.

Think that 3-con with the uninsulated conductor might be the return to the TAPS gauge?

[14burrito]

To be honest, I'd have to look back at the wiring this evening when I try my makeshift MEFI5 / OBD code pulling stuff lol

[KoolAid]

Think that 3-con with the uninsulated conductor might be the return to the TAPS gauge?

Seeing his picture, that is exactly what it is. taps cyl wire.jpg

[KoolAid]

is the plate moving? Is the pump making noise?

[14burrito]

Last I checked yes, just the TAPS gauge has been giving me inconsistent feedback. Used to only read 4 to 8, now stuck at 8 since recent.

Also looks like your pic is 3 series of copper wires, looks like I have 2 copper and 1 AL.

[DieterDorin]

Jetter. Your post was very helpful to me, but you did not actually post again with the final resolution. So, I am posting with more information for others who find this post and to see if anyone else has tried replacing only the upper hinge or had that confirmed from Bennett.
I have a 2012 Z3 and the TAPS 2 plate is working. The actuator pushes the plate up and down, but no position information is getting to the TAPS gauge or the Tige Touch. I have checked for resistance on the 2 green wires where they go into the Medallion Trim Tab module and no reading, so my situation is very much the same as yours. I have not yet cut the wires and tested resistance at the transom or for connectivity between the transom and the trim tab module. Mine TAPS is still usable, so this is an offseason fix.
The link above from maxpow is to a new upper hinge and sender unit part number CC3003P with red wires. Part number 3003S has green wires and C3003P has red ones. I believe the P and S are for port and starboard and the only difference is the color of the wires for systems that have double trim tabs installed. Some links even show grey or white and red wires and I have read that the color does not matter. I discovered installation instructions for that part Actuator-Replacing-Upper-Hinge-wSensor-BeforeMar19-WEB-052123.pdf (bennetttrimtabs.com) From what I have read on the installation instructions you should only have to replace the upper hinge with sender not the entire actuator if the ram is still working as it the case with mine.

Has anyone else tried this or talked to Bennett about it? That's my next step.

[DieterDorin]

I got hold of Bennett support. Turns out I can replace the upper hinge only and I have done so now. Can't just order the CC3003P or CC3003S part off Amazon or eBay. The correct part number has extra letters CC3003SASP. The sensor rod is shorter and the tube it fits up inside is longer and the spacer height at the top matters too.
Bottom line, phone Bennett (Yamaha) support to confirm which upper hinge replacement is required for the actuator you have.

Here are the parts that would work for my 2012 Z3: This is a hydraulic actuator (ATF for the fluid) not the newer electric ones which I believe are all Lenco anyway.
Bennett electric ones are called Bolt.

BENNETT MARINE INC PART #	YAMAHA P#			UNIT OF MEASURE	DESCRIPTION	RETAIL (USD)
CC3003SASP	6BT-	5002174	-00	EA	UH SH SPCR W/SHORT SENSOR ROD PORT	$43.00
EIC901SASP	6BT-	5010250	-00	EA	PORT 1.225 6-1/8 ROD 10' SC & CON	$44.95
ATPSEN1.225SD	6BT-	5010123	-00	EA	Catalog # for ATP HYD 1.225 SD PAIR	$112.30
TIGSA4015C	6BT-	5006538	-00	EA	ACTUATOR W/COIL, 2-5/8" STROKE F/A1550, A1551 & A1552	$169.00

Note that the top 2 lines are single upper hinge replacements, the third is dual upper hinge replacements (not useful on center place TAPS 2) , while the bottom is the full actuator. Can be ordered from any Yamaha outboard dealer.
When I took apart my actuator, the tube was jammed against the side and the sensor rod had been moving up and down against the side of the tube instead of up and down the center of the tube. It worked for 10 years this way, but eventually the sensor rod wore through the fine red wires of the array wound around the tube and then it no longer could send the position of the actuator. Because the rod was jammed up the side of the tube instead of up the center, I think it restricted how far up the place could go, so the actuator still had 1.25 inches to go in the fully up position. The instructions require the actuator to be fully up to do the sway and a PVC clip is used to hold the actuator from snapping closed (strong spring in there) if there is any distance between the cylinder and the bottom hinge when fully up. Nine did not cone with a PVX clip, but there was still 1.25 inches exposed at the bottom so I made a PVC clip from 1 " PVC pipe. Turns out the misplaced sensor rod (which I assume was a manufacturing error when new) eventually jammed and prevented full movement to the fully up position and there was no PVC clip required for mine.

I have measured that the resistance is changing and and sending the correct signals all the way up to the connector into the TAPS module , but my gauges are still not displaying the TAPS position, so I believe my TAPS module is bad.
If anyone knows how to test the output from the Medallion TAPS module under the dash, I would appreciate knowing that to test it and know for sure before ordering a new module. It seems I have to get one only from a Tige dealer?