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2016 Boatmate trailer rear strap issue. Seems recurrent

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    2016 Boatmate trailer rear strap issue. Seems recurrent

    Seems that Tige and boatmate dispute each other for the taps3 plate cutting the rear straps when binded.
    Anyone had this issue and solution? Local dealer told me that they are in progress with that dispute because it's a recurrent thing. But nothing comes up ending well.

    Thing is local dealer don't want to change my traps that are half cut on a brand new trailer.. and i understand because they always gonna cut at the first travel.
    Tige Want to put the fault on boatmate and boatmate says that tige change their boat and not avised boatmate so it's à Tige boats fault..

    What about the costumer?
    Because rolling with flashy green aftermarket straps on a brand new 5K trailer is pretty frustrating lol.
    One of the salesman said "hey don't put them, it's simple" yeah right.. probably the worst idea I heard in my life haha.. 3hours driving on curvy and old roads with no rear straps, I wonder if he will pay me total price if the boat come off!

    So for you folks that are in the same situation what have you done? Take the pill and swallow? Riding with aftermarket straps? Roll a microfiber on the strap where the plate touch?
    Or you had a solution that resolve the problem?

    If anything is done
    I had an idea but kind of frustrating that I'm gonna be the one who pays those mods..
    The U bar where the rear straps are mounting are parallel to the boat hook but could be much more wider (near the external corner of the trailer).
    So adding another U bar more closer to the corner, make it weld, paint it black and put the straps on it.
    That gonna give more angle to the straps so they gonna clear the taps plate and solve the problem!
    After doing this sure the dealer gonna give me new straps but it's kind of a big work!
    Thanks.
    Last edited by Mike88; 06-27-2017, 01:06 AM.

    #2
    Mike88,

    You and I'm sure some others aren't going to like my answer, but it's my opinion. Transom straps are pointless on a boat of your size and configuration. I cant tell you exact weight of Raptor, trans, and vdrive but it's got to be right around 1000# sitting at the very back of your boat. Followed by a fuel tank with liquid sitting at a low center of gravity. Couple that with the fact that the chines sit just outside of the bunks so it can move laterally, they are pointless. Only way to keep straps from getting cut in current condition would be a chunk of carpet. You could also not reef on them. Leave a 1/4" of slack on some new straps and I will guarantee they won't wear because your boat isn't moving on the trailer if it was put on correctly, if boat is moving up at all coming over a bump strap will contact the tab and you can prove me wrong. Only way your boats getting totalled is if you roll it off of said curvy road and at that point there's not a transom strap in the world that's saving your boat.

    If it's something you have to have and cant live without I'd look at Centurions design. Transom mounted rings either side of trim tab and straps located more towards prop guard of trailer. I don't see many new Supremes but imagine that are same design as they are built in the same plant and engineered by the same guys. I believe they roll on VM trailers as Fresno and Merced are right down the road from each other but I could be wrong. Either way if you don't want strap interference with surf tabs fabrication is going to be involved.

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      #3
      I would try to find some sort of pad that went around the strap, you could probably sew up a microfibre rag or maybe even a seat belt cover. I haven't even looked at mine since I've got the tabs.

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        #4
        Maybe there was a change, but my transom straps go straight down and the taps 3 plates don't come into contact at all. I don't use them though.

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          #5
          Not sure exactly what design you have, the new ones I thought have the fix. On the older design, the solution is to move the ratchets to the outside of the trailer railing. It works decent enough but like Free said, the straps aint holding anything in the case of disaster.....Rear Ratchet Straps.png
          Germaine Marine
          "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks everybody !

            And yeah elevatedconcept that's exactly the position that can cure the problem.

            And if anybody don't use them at all.. maybe I'm a little bit too maniac haha

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              #7
              I would say use them. A number of years back I remember watching a malibu hit a pot hole at no more than 35mph and the whole rear of the boat bounced up and back down on the trailer. I would rather the trailer go with the boat and let the trailer suspension handle the shock than the hull. Some one once told me that the transom straps not not designed to attach the boat to the trailer but the trailer strapped to the boat.

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                #8
                FWIW, the '17 trailers have fixed this, there is a slot in the bumper step that the strap comes up through for an almost straight connection, have to reach under the step to work the ratchet.

                I use them for the same reason h20-ski mentions -- I've seen big boats bounce hard. Not expecting those straps to do any more than avoid some of that shock, if the boat and trailer want to go their separate ways, the strap won't help. Same thing with the winch and safety strap up front -- they won't prevent catastrophe, just more or less try to keep the catastrophe going the same general direction...

                I do recall a trip to Powell and coming up on a blow-out -- it had run them up the side of hill in the median. The boat was still on the trailer at a pretty scary angle, with daylight between the boat and bunks on one side, and I'm guessing a lot of tension on the transom strap on that side. That's a pretty rare scenario, though I bet they were glad to be strapped down to minimize the bad day.

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