2015 r20 engine warning light

[r20tige]

Our second trip out with the boat this year and the engine warning like came on and dings every 10 seconds or so. It runs as normal temp is steady 160 oil pressure is normal. Is there anyway to check the code? The 2015 does not have the tige tap. Our dealer is very backed up don't want to lose the boat for a month or longer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It's the 2015 r20 with the indmar raptor 400

Thank you

[DCR20]

Going to sound a little odd but I had the exact same problem with my 2015 R20 400R. Turned out to be a pin hole corrosion spot in the oil filter that was letting the oil our just enough to throw a code but not enough to drop the pressure (strange I know I couldn't believe it myself). A buddy had similar issues and it was corroded sensors. We run in salt though (no choice here in coastal Queensland Australia because our fresh lakes are clogged with tubers and bass fisherman) so if you run fresh it might be something else. DC

[freeheel4life]

It's most likely a low water flow threshold. There's a paddlewheel that measure raw water flow near the transom. You can try unscrwing it and make sure it is clocked correctly(sometimes they are turned just slightly so water doesn't flow directly across paddles) and also sometimes a little bit of grass or other debris can hang up the paddle wheel. Lots of folks have had this issues, but like you said with your R20 with no screen who knows. A bit of a gamble just continuing to run.

[EngineNut]

It's most likely a low water flow threshold. There's a paddlewheel that measure raw water flow near the transom. You can try unscrwing it and make sure it is clocked correctly(sometimes they are turned just slightly so water doesn't flow directly across paddles) and also sometimes a little bit of grass or other debris can hang up the paddle wheel. Lots of folks have had this issues, but like you said with your R20 with no screen who knows. A bit of a gamble just continuing to run.

I agree with freeheel4life, check the paddlewheel flow sensor. Generally speaking, if the fault is more serious, it will set the alarm and the check engine light but not put the engine in power reduction mode. If your engine RPM is not being limited, the issue is probably the paddlewheel. You won't hurt anything using the boat.

[007]

hey @r20tige - If you could see the codes I could confirm my bet. I guess the R series doesn't give you access to an engin diagnostic screen? My '15 400 raptor has had 2 issues, I bet you have one of the two if the boat seems to be running fine (normal temp/oil pressure/etc.):

1. What @freeheel4life and @EngineNut said is most likely. There is a paddlewheel sensor in the cooling system the can throw a code if it gets a little piece of crap in it. My '15, and I understand most if not all '15's, did NOT come with a raw water screen/flush assembly. I was having trouble with crap getting into my cooling system and getting the code, so I added one and have not seen that code since. To clean out the paddle wheel sensor you have to remove the plastic beauty cover, lean over the motor and find the round cap with a circular safety ring on it at the aft of the motor. If you have a piece of trim below the gel but above the motor, you may have to remove it to gain access. Remove the safety ring (just like taking a key off a key ring) and by hand remove the cover/sensor. Water will drain out and hopefully if anything is caught in there it will flush out. When reinstalling the cover, do so only by hand. The threads are plastic. Be extremely careful not to drop the round safety ring when reinstalling it. It is an SOB to retrieve from the bilge, ask me how I know...

2. Could be a cat/exhaust sensor. Indmar has had issue with some of them being overly sensitive or bad. I've had this pop up 2x on my Z3.

In either case, the beeping is a total pain in the ***!

[freeheel4life]

Just FYI, had a boat is yesterday with same problem...though this time it actually was low water flow. Diacom showed me raw water flow was really low. Boat was not overheating thought(raw water flow was 2gpm or less at 1000rpms). Changed impeller and ran again, raw water flow was 12-14gpm. Impeller was in good shape and looked like a few blades had taken a set. Just a friendly reminder impellers are a 2 year service item or 100 hours. This boat was a 15 with exactly 100 hours on it. Just food for thought.

[r20tige]

finally got it in to get the code pulled its an o2 sensor now have to wait for the sensor to get here from tige and wait in line to get it put in. Damn i wish the dealer wasnt so damn busy... thank you everyone for the input... our 15 was a hold over only has one season and i changed the impeller before it went out and plan to every year just cheap insurance...

[freeheel4life]

Sooo, your dealer is either not that smart or far from a parts house. The O2 sensors ordered from Indmar can be gotten about anywhere. In fact they will come in FoMoCo bags with and Indmar parts sticker over them. You just need to know if it's pre cat or post cat, and what bank it is and it's easy enough to source them. They are simply Ford narrowband and wideband 02 sensors. Depending and how long you plan on owning boat it may be worth looking into buying your own diacomm since you cant read codes. They also have a handheld unit you could keep in boat to read codes while on water. I prefer just using the laptop though as it displays more info, is faster, and easier to pull info. Rinda technologies is the company that sells it. Just sucks your dealer cant get you back on the water over parts that aren't proprietary.