Need help getting correct materials for a raw water strainer!

[boonecragun]

In addition to the cross threading, I took the filter screen off my filter once because it had slimy silt stuck on it that wouldn't rinse off. Had the hardest time getting it back on...might have been easier to place something inside of it like a TP roll to help it keep its shape when trying to put it back on. Kept bending because it does take some force to get it back on. Just another tip.

[rjh171]

Just my two cents - have a Perko flush valve and Sherwood in line strainer in place, both 1.25". Routed tubing from the flush valve to the transom with a through hull to flush out the brackish water after use. Also use to winterize as suggested in an earlier post. Been in use for nearly 10 years without any issue. Was able to cut the inlet hose and reuse it. Between the strainer and valve plus a few hose clamps, was under $100. Replace the screen and gaskets every few years as preventative maintenance.

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[TigeFamily]

I agree about the shut off valve, you should definitely add one in case there is ever an issue. I have one on my boat just before the Perko but don't need to use it cause the Perko prevents water from going back out of the hull when using hose to run engine.
Mentioning this cause someone on CC dropped their boat in water a few days ago after having it winterized by dealer. Dealer shut the valve (probably to winterize) and supposedly told owner that come summer, just fire it up and nothing else needed to be done....since owner did not do his own maintenance and did not know to look, he ran boat for 15mins and of course it overheated cause it was getting no water. It shredded the impeller. He did not know what the issue was at first and was asking for help to diagnose. That was one of the first questions someone asked him. Apparently the dealer also overfilled the engine oil.
Just another example of why its so important to know everything about your own boat to make sure stuff like that does not happen and to always do an inspection before dropping it into the water, especially the first time for year. Also why I like doing my own work on boat whenever possible, you KNOW its done right.
So anyone that has not yet dropped boat into water....CHECK to make sure your shut-off is open before you fire your baby up!

[BCRider]

^I did that last year.

I had closed my intake valve so I could reach my arm through as I was adjusting the collar on the driveshaft as I was getting a lot of water coming in. Well, even after I reminded myself to open it I forgot. Got a couple hundred yards from the boat launch at idle when the boat started beeping at me. I knew what it was immediately and shut the boat off. Now this is where I went wrong and should be a lesson for anyone that ever gets in this scenario. DO NOT open your valve. Get towed back to the launch. Your day is over. When I did this the water rushed in and ultimately hydro locked the motor. My friend who is a mechanic told me had I left it closed and let the boat cool right down I probably would have been ok. Instead I came home from my long weekend holiday without my wife and kids that same day and tore the motor down to the block in my friends driveway. The good new is we had it back together with new seals less than 24 hours later. I was lucky that I hadn't damaged anything in the process. Damn, that was stressful.

[Dandy]

As noted above, we have a 22Ve of this era (MP340). For some reason, the factory DID NOT install a shut off valve on the thru-hull fitting. I do not understand why and this is one of the things that I really want to get done on our boat. I am just not excited about trying to contort myself into the lower bilge. I am just concerned that if a hose were to break, there is NO why to stop the water from getting in the boat and having it sink. I don't believe this has been an issue, but overtime, it clearly has the potential to become one.

[IDBoating]

DO NOT open your valve. When I did this the water rushed in and ultimately hydro locked the motor.

Hmmm...

If you were sitting in the lake with the waterline at a normal level, I'd expect the water to "rush in" up to no higher than that same waterline - and stop. Since the raw water pump's impeller makes an airtight seal (otherwise it wouldn't be self-priming), it shouldn't let water pass the impeller unless the engine was turning. In fact, since the air coming in through the ball valve would trap air in the water intake lines leading to the raw water pump, and the impeller is making an airtight seal at the other end, I wouldn't expect the lake water to come up the intake lines very far at all (it's trying to compress the trapped air).

So if opening the valve caused cold water to damage your engine, there's something I don't understand about how the water got all the way past your raw water pump's impeller and into the engine....

[BCRider]

IDBoating, I guess I did not type the part where I did try and start it after about 20mins floating in the water. I don't quite know how it happened either....but it did.

[freeheel4life]

Any chance when alarm went off and you realized what was going on there was a hard stop with a brief but incidental reverse thrown into the mix?? Seen this be the cause of a hydrolocked engine before.

[BCRider]

Freeheel4life: No, I was only just in gear going forward slowly. I pulled it back to neutral and shut it off.

Sorry to Hijack the thread here.

[IDBoating]

Sounds like the damage was already done by the time you shut off the engine.

[Jetdriver]

Great points all! Tigefam, I couldn't agree more. When you put in work and do your own maintenance and projects you learn so much about your boat in particular. I hate paying people to do what I'm perfectly capable of doing myself. 9/10 you do a better job because you care about the end result more than Joe Blow mechanic that has a backlog of work with not enough hours in the day to accomplish it all.