Need help getting correct materials for a raw water strainer!

[Jetdriver]

Hey everybody! I've decided I want to put an inline flush kit in my boat (sick of using the plunger)
And after cleaning a bunch of junk out of my transmission cooler screen last fall I figured I might as well throw a strainer in at the same time. I'm attaching a rough diagram of my planned system so hopefully you guys can give me some tips.

The raw water pickup hose is 1 1/4" ID. Problem I'm running into is the size differences. The Groco strainer is 1". Valves I can get in 1 1/4" or 1", same with the threaded pieces and T. Where do I get a 1 1/4" to 1" reducer to fit the valve to the double sided threaded piece? Where can I find the garden hose piece and cap for it? Is the reduction in volume gonna have a bad affect on my cooling system?

I looked at Z1 and dukesofhazards builds as a reference and am attaching pics of their systems as well.
I did a bunch of looking online but am coming up short on finding the parts to make it happen. Any help or tips are appreciated! Thanks!

[Dandy]

Jet, you have to look outside the box. I happen to design spraying/application equipment for a specific segment of agricultural. I am still in my office and saw you post. I checked out Hypro, a division of Pentair and they carry the line strainers, and fittings both in brass and plastics in 1.25". Here are a few links. I am not sure where you can buy them, but seeing as you have the same boat as me, come up with a list of the items and I can order a few sets. You do the design work and I can get the parts. If you find them elsewhere that is fine as well. PM me if you need. The PDF of the catalog page with the breakdowns are listed toward the bottom of the page.

Here is a link to 2 different series of strainers - 3350 which are nylon or poly
http://hypro.pentair.com/en/products...line-strainers
http://hypro.pentair.com/en/products...line-strainers

Here is a link to fittings, again the parts download is at the bottom - they have alot of 1.25 in nylon and steel, but not in brass. Hopefully someone can chime if nylon or steel would work.
http://hypro.pentair.com/en/products...nylon-fittings

Here is another company that has a fair amount of 1.25" stuff. Their Poly fittings are Schedule 80, so generally heavier than the fittings from Hypro. A downside to Banjo is that alot of their components have to be ordered in package quantities.
http://www.banjocorp.com/
Banjo Fittings
http://www.banjocorp.com/products/pipe-fittings
Banjo Strainers - these are kind of nice because some have mounting tabs built into the top (doesn't look like 1.25" does).
http://www.banjocorp.com/products/pipe-fittings


Let me know if I can be of any help.

[lee]

https://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=3653

[Dandy]

https://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=3653

I forgot all about this. Nice reminder lee!

Wouldn't a shut off valve still be needed between this and the water intake? On these 22Ves we don't have shut odd on the they hull. I would be concerned that it may not draw all the water in as some could potentially be lost out the they hull, leading to an overheat risk. If my thought is wrong, I am happy to be told so.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[lee]

The impeller will suck all the water hose will supply and very little would flow towards the hull.

[Jetdriver]

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I just assumed that it was preferred to use bronze fittings but I don't see why you couldn't use pvc as it doesn't get hot at all. It would also be considerably cheaper.

Lee- I saw threads with that Indmar strainer but a couple people had said they aren't very durable and I'm not crazy about the idea of the valve design on this and the perko flush kit. Have you heard of anyone having issue with either?

Dandy-Thanks for the links! It may end up more cost effective to go with either the indmar or perko flush kit with a bronze hose bard and valve before it. I'd feel better knowing that I could shut the water off if the plastic housing on either broke. I'll let you know what I come up with.

[TigeFamily]

The older Perko's used to have issues on breaking (over year ago) cause they were held together with 2 screws at the split, but they redesigned with a clamp and I hear its been good for a while. Have one on my boat and never had an issue with it and this is my 3rd season using it...other nice thing about the Perko is it has an "adapter" (plastic piece you push into it that holds the ball open) this is so low pressure fluid can drain into it when not pressurized with a hose for running engine in driveway....(like when winterizing out of a 5 gallon bucket using a short piece of hose since this is how I winterize engine) AND the perko is designed to prevent water from going out of the hull inlet automatically when you hook up the hose and pressurize it, so you would not need a shut-off.

[Jetdriver]

Thanks for the input TigeFamily, you're the first I've heard from directly that uses one of the two. The thing that I don't like about these is if the housing broke for what ever reason it'd be pouring water into your boat. That's why if I choose to go with either I'd put a bronze shutoff valve in front of it just in case. My boat currently has no shutoff for the raw water intake.

[lee]

A buddy of mine has had the Perko kit on his boat since 2007 with no problems and I have not heard of the Indmar having problems.

[boonecragun]

Groco makes a 1-1/4 size model WSB 1250. That is what I have running on mine. No need to mess with reduction couplers until you get to the hose flush side of things.

[dukesofhazzard]

you should be able to get all the fittings from a real plumbing store, home depot should have most. There really isn't anything out of the ordinary, use bushings to reduce to size if need be. I do feel you should have a shutoff raw water shutoff.

[dukesofhazzard]

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...ater-strainer/
check this to see if it helps

[Jetdriver]

Thanks for all the suggestions!
I tracked down pretty much everything I think I'll need last night and totaled all the parts up. Looks like I'd be in it for about $175 before shipping for a systems all pieced together. The strainer and hose are the most expensive parts.
Utilizing an Indmar strainer it would cost me about $25 more, that's including a shutoff valve before the Indmar unit.
I'm gonna elect for my original choice and use the Groco 1250 strainer Boonecragun suggested as it comes with the mounting plate. The Sherwood unit I found last night didn't, they wanted another $18 for the mount. Thx Boone!
I'll be writing up a how to with a parts list/sourcing and pricing for anyone interested once I get the parts in.
Thanks again for the help and suggestions guys!

[boonecragun]

I was about the same amount into mine. Be careful when you clean the strainer. I was at lake Powell and cleaned it because of all the gunk and I didn't notice I lost the gasket for the bowl. Impeller did not get good suction because the seal was not air tight and ended up overhearing. Luckily no damage.

[IDBoating]

Be careful when you clean the strainer. I was at lake Powell and cleaned it because of all the gunk and I didn't notice I lost the gasket for the bowl.

x2 on this advice. I haven't lost mine yet, but it's not for lack of trying {grin}. It's easy to forget that gasket is in there, and it's easy to drop it in the hull or on the ground outside or.... You get the idea.

One more thing: At least on my factory-OEM Tige filter (made by some big marine supplier, of course), it's ridiculously easy to cross thread the bowl back onto the headpiece. It always takes me several minutes and lots of tries to get it to thread on properly. I keep promising myself I'm going to replace it but once it's on there for the season it works great, so I've just been tolerating it.