Dewinterize : what the dealership exactly do ?

[Mike88]

Hi guys,
I'm a little bit in a questioning mode right now.
I bought my Tigé rzr 2016 last October, I did my first 10hours service and the dealership winterize my boat in the same time (even if it sleep in my garage). First service and winterize was included in the contract so they done it. I know they put antifreeze and fuel stabilized but.. they surely does something else no!?
They told me it was important to take an appointment for dewinterize too but I'm pretty sure I can do it by myself if I know what I have to do.

Thing is my boat have 12hours on the meter, gonna have to do my 25hours oil change and everything but I don't really want to bring my boat at the dealer, bring it back home, drop it in the lake and re do it all 2weeks after.

For oil change if i call the boat shop near home to do it on my elevator I wonder if my Tigé dealer gonna tell me the warranty is avoid or something like That..

I will go at the dealer every end season with pleasure to winterize and done oil change but If i can save a houndred bucks or 2 for doing my dewinterize by myself why not !?

Thanks a lot everybody

[boardman74]

Each dealer does things different. Some leave the blocks open or certain things disconnected. Some just need to hook up that batteries.

Easy answer is unfortunately none of us have any clue what your dealer did. There's no single "industry normal" way. So no one on here is going to be able to tell you how to summerize, because we don't know how your dealer winterized. I have always thought this is kinda of a scam(especially on these boats), they are basically getting away with charging you twice for the same service.

If the oil was changed in the fall I'd say you can run it for the normal 50 hour interval. No need to change it at 25 hours.

[chpthril]

I'm pretty sure I can do it by myself if I know what I have to do.

In all honesty, a boat should be turn-key ready come spring IMO. Nothing left off or unplugged. There is certainly a debate about doing the impeller at layup or spring, removing for layup and putting it back in in spring.

[boardman74]

Totally agree with Mike. This is how I leave my tow boats and how I think a reputable shop should leave them. Whether they are dry blocked or run an antifreeze no reason to not to. All you should have to do is hook up the batteries in the spring, put the plug in and turn the key.

I've always thought leaving a few plugs out and maybe a hose off then saying you need to come back for summerization was a scam. IMO

[ChrisBarnes05-12-84]

They will probably check the fluids in your engine, v drive etc. they will then start your boat and let it run for a few minutes, charge you 200 bucks and say it's ready. I would just do it yourself.

[chpthril]

I wont call it a scam, I just dont agree with the practice. However, I do understand the concept behind it. From a liability standpoint, it protect the shop from eating an engine job because an owner got spring fever, launched the boat one warm weekend and then it later froze in a late freeze.

The shop needs a way to indisputably prove the engine was properly winterized when it left their facility.

I think the best and most fair approach would be to clearly state the status of the engine and the why, to the customer. Make winterizing and making it turn-key ready in the spring, one charge, paid up front in full at the time of winterizing. Then come spring, return the engine to its lake ready state and run it on a fake a lake.

[BCRider]

All I have to do is reconnect the batteries, put the impeller back in and start it. After I'll do an oil change and she is already to go.

I understand new boat and all but from here on it I'd do it yourself. You'll have better piece of mind that everything has been dealt with. There's lots of threads and different video's online to reference along with the manual for your boat that will show you all the plugs to pull. With the RV antifreeze, new oil filter, and oil it usually costs me about $ 100 to winterize.

[boardman74]

Do you also change oil in the fall? If not I'd suggest changing it then versus the spring. As oil runs it develops acidity and absorbs moisture. Along with dirt and other contaminates. Not really what you want sitting in your engine during lay up.

If your changing it fall and again in spring thats not needed.

[BCRider]

^ You are right. Previously I used to do it in the fall and again in the spring. I typed that without quite thinking. With a lot of the miss information about it I used to do it twice. After speaking with my neighbor about it last year that is a mechanic I now only change it in the fall and otherwise at my every 50 hour intervals which is typically twice a season.

[Mike88]

Thanks everybody for your advice. It's exactly what I expected.
I called the dealer this morning ( don't know why I ain't do it in the first place haha)
They told me exactly what they have done last fall and what I should do before drop it in the lake.

They simply disconnect the 2 batteries, make sure everything is water empty, put antifreeze in ballast and stabilizer in the fuel.
So I just have to reconnect them, drain antifreeze in the ballast, check oils if everything is OK and don't forget to put the drain cork haha.

So next fall I'm gonna do like most of you like I expected : do my oil change and winterize. And then in spring make it water ready by myself.
Thanks again guys!

[TigeFamily]

Here is the MOST important thing to do so your warranty is not voided if you are gonna do your own oil changes, etc.
DOCUMENT....write in your owners manual or somewhere else, exactly what you do, when you do it and what the hours are on the boat at the time. They cannot void your warranty cause a dealer does not do it, however, you MUST document it to have a record if something should happen that requires you needing the warranty. If you have no proof, you will be SOL, if you document, you will be fine.

[lee]

Thanks everybody for your advice. It's exactly what I expected.
I called the dealer this morning ( don't know why I ain't do it in the first place haha)
They told me exactly what they have done last fall and what I should do before drop it in the lake.

They simply disconnect the 2 batteries, make sure everything is water empty, put antifreeze in ballast and stabilizer in the fuel.
So I just have to reconnect them, drain antifreeze in the ballast, check oils if everything is OK and don't forget to put the drain cork haha.

So next fall I'm gonna do like most of you like I expected : do my oil change and winterize. And then in spring make it water ready by myself.
Thanks again guys!

With the Raptor engine, your engine is already full of antifreeze.

[cbath]

The block is full of antifreeze, however you still have raw water cooling system i.e.- headers, heat exchanger, impeller, transmission cooler, v-drive and/or heater and shower plus ballast system with water in them.... you HAVE to winterize the raw water side no matter which engine is installed... unless your 100% positive your boat won't be below freezing for any length of time.


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[cbath]

The block is full of antifreeze, however you still have raw water cooling system i.e.- headers, heat exchanger, impeller, transmission cooler, v-drive and/or heater and shower plus ballast system with water in them.... you HAVE to winterize the raw water side no matter which engine is installed... unless your 100% positive your boat won't be below freezing for any length of time. The antifreeze that's in the engine will not save you from freeze damage..


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[Jetdriver]

Do it yourself, the more you learn about your boat the better prepared you are to diagnose and fix problems that come up. Winterizing and fluids changes are very easyily accomplished preventative maintenance. If you know how to turn a wrench you shouldn't have any issues with the help of this forum and some common sense.