Ah ok so gain. And crossover points and all that is the same.
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Another update and more info on the cutout problem.
Followed freeheel's advice and downloaded a tone generator app on my phone. Not expecting scientific accuracy, though it gave me the ability to set a solid tone at different frequencies and then vary the gain.
Changing frequencies didn't matter, same results across the range.
When the volume on the Touch is at 10 or below, the sound completely stopped when I set the gain on the phone app to anything less than -12. As I turned the volume up on the Touch, it could tolerate a lower gain setting on the app.
This confirmed what I was hearing in that it is sensitive to source signal - if the source gets quiet, it cuts easier.
Not sure if this helps anyone in thinking about the potential root cause?
Side note - my satellite radio installation isn't going well either. I started getting a "Media Connection Error". It gave me the option to cancel or reset, but pressing reset didn't do anything. Had to pull the rca connections apart to get the system to work. Also getting a lot of noise, esp when the blower is on, prob need to find a different ground spot.
And finally, not sure if related, but my video 1 feed from the back stopped working, blank screen...
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cooper-
If you don't have one, stop in at Radio Shack or other electronic supplier and buy yourself a headphone jack to RCA cord. I would then plug your phone directly into RCA inputs at the amp and try playing some tunes off your phone. Seems like this would verify for sure if it is an amp output signal problem. amp can only put out good signal if its getting a good input. Not 100% confident in the new Murphy ICE controller. IF you plug directly into amp and problem goes away then its input signal that's the problem. IF problem remains then I would point the finger at the amp. again, I'm no stereo guru, but I think this will keep eliminating some variables in the diagnosis process and get you closer to pointing the finger at one component/manufacturer.Comment
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I'll derail the radio issue for a moment until I can try freeheel's test.
I was checking things out and found the below -- the fuel pump hose clamps aren't covered and nicked the bag. Nothing serious, just a scratch (see right above thumb), though glad I caught it. Wrapped some tape around the clamp and the screws on the bottom of the pump and good to go. Guess I'm just paranoid about having that much water inside the boat and making sure it stays contained
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Just a heads up, that would be your heater pump to keep that hot coolant headed up to the core before it can cool in the line(long run from engine to in front of helm). Fuel pump for Raptor is going to be an in tank pump.Comment
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While you are messing around with lines/ballast.
1) check to make sure your front lines are not kinked. One of mine was.
2) consider installing ball valves on overflow lines. Otherwise they empty as you are surfing. Water just pours out.
3) you are gonna need about 600-800 lbs of lead to get a great wave.
4) if your ever going to Pueblo, let me know. We are down there a couple times a week all summer.Comment
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Where did you end up installing the ball valves/check valves at on the overflow lines?Originally posted by Bakes5 View PostComment
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That makes much more sense -- I must have crossed the line I was following -- I feel stupid...Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
Great ideas, I'll keep an eye on it. I watched our bags last weekend, and didn't notice any passive emptying, however, I'm sure it could happen. Already started getting the idea that we're going to need a bit more weight, seems kind of crazy with that much in it already. It's already much more impressive than our 22v with 100% all around, TAPS@5 and TAPS3@10-12Originally posted by Bakes5 View PostComment
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Ok, another stereo update.
Followed freeheel's advice and plugged my phone directly into the amp and used the tone generator. No change at all - at a certain low level, the sound cuts out completely, regardless of frequency.
Also struggling with my satellite radio install still. Originally, I connected the 12v constant at the fuse bus under the helm, adding a new fuse in the last open spot. Connected the ground to the ground bus at the fuse block. Got a lot of interference whine when the blower was on. Switched the ground to the separate ground block that is on the bulkhead, and started getting a more high pitched whine when the engine was running, and a crazy loud screetch when the taps2 plate moved. Trigger is tee'd into a line coming out of the magic blue button.
Is there a better 12v constant and ground I should be connecting to? Really hoping to avoid running a new line to the battery just for this, seems like there should be something interference free up there?
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^^^so what is your dealer and Tige doing about the cutout issue? One would think a $100k+ boat would just work or that Tige and WWS would be bending over backwards to fix this.
FWIW, The tower speakers on my 16 hissed all the time until I went in and messed with the gain on the amp. It was kinda irritating and is something I would expect if I installed the system rather than the factory.
Are you 100% sure there isn't an access panel or something you can't remove on the amp?Comment
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Yep, I pulled all the panels on both amps, nothing. These are a new DSP series for this year, though they look the same.
Both Tige and WWS are working in it, don't get me wrong. WWS is ready to apply whatever fix the factory comes up with, and I've been emailing back and forth with Justin at Tige customer support every time I find something or they have something they want me to try. They are also following this thread as a source of problem documentation.
I have a bit of compassion because I know what it's like to work with vendors; there can be a lot of back and forth before a solution is finally found, and it's usually a perfect storm of interactions, not a single component issue.
I'm with you still - would love to be able to hookup my laptop and try a few tweaks to the gain and other settings, my gut just says it would help things play together better
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Were you able to try plugging rca directly into the amp to verify if it's an input issue from Murphy ICE box or if it was amp output for sure??Comment
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Yes, that's what I did, 3.5mm to rca, directly into the amp, I could control volume from both the phone master volume and the gain setting inside my tone generator amp. The amp just seems to be under powering the speakers at low input levels, that's the simplest way I can describe what I'm experiencing
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Not sure about this whole DSP concept.
Here is a looong thread on DSP in the Malibu line
http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.p...stereo/&page=1
I can see where OEMs and Tige like this cause they can do everything via software, and it's probably cheaper for both but I REALLY like the master volume knob on my WS-420 and I like the fact I could just turn the gain down until my tower speakers quit hissing.
Anyways, I'm sure Tige and Wet Sounds will square you away. I wonder if your particular amp is just bad?Comment
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and just to be clear....no ws-420 on the 2017's?Comment
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