'17 Z3 on the way

[hcooperrn]

No, no equalizer. Zone control is on-screen, no other adjustments available.


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[chpthril]

Not sure about this whole DSP concept.

Here is a looong thread on DSP in the Malibu line
http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.p...stereo/&page=1

I can see where OEMs and Tige like this cause they can do everything via software, and it's probably cheaper for both but I REALLY like the master volume knob on my WS-420 and I like the fact I could just turn the gain down until my tower speakers quit hissing.

Anyways, I'm sure Tige and Wet Sounds will square you away. I wonder if your particular amp is just bad?

The source unit is not wet sounds or Tige.

DSP is not new just new to boats. This is not related to the amps being DSP. DSP just changes the "how" amps are tuned.

[hcooperrn]

The source unit is not wet sounds or Tige.

DSP is not new just new to boats. This is not related to the amps being DSP. DSP just changes the "how" amps are tuned.

The source is the Murphy ICE, right?

Did I effectively bypass the ICE box by connecting my phone directly to the amp, or did that not really prove anything? Any other tests I can run without equipment, or any other hypotheses I can pass along to Tige?

I'm not knocking DSP technology in any way, I just want my boat to sound decent at a volume we talk over at this point.


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[Surf Captain AZ]

Our trip yesterday ended with dropping the boat off at the shop because we can't take the hissing that has turned into squealing from the interior speakers. It only stops when we turn the Tige touch screen off, the problem with that is, you can't surf. So we told them if changing the amp doesn't fix it, then unplug them until a fix is found. Also the tower speakers quit working all together. We still have the cutting out below 20 so we turned it off and used the phone by itself to sit and float and have conversation. Hopefully Tige and wet sounds figure it out quick, or it'll be a long summer.

[chpthril]

The source is the Murphy ICE, right?

Did I effectively bypass the ICE box by connecting my phone directly to the amp, or did that not really prove anything? Any other tests I can run without equipment, or any other hypotheses I can pass along to Tige?

I'm not knocking DSP technology in any way, I just want my boat to sound decent at a volume we talk over at this point.


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Can you post a pic of your amps, specifically where all the connections are made?

Our trip yesterday ended with dropping the boat off at the shop because we can't take the hissing that has turned into squealing from the interior speakers. It only stops when we turn the Tige touch screen off, the problem with that is, you can't surf. So we told them if changing the amp doesn't fix it, then unplug them until a fix is found. Also the tower speakers quit working all together. We still have the cutting out below 20 so we turned it off and used the phone by itself to sit and float and have conversation. Hopefully Tige and wet sounds figure it out quick, or it'll be a long summer.

When you shut the TT off, am i correct that the audio system still plays? If this is correct, then you have eliminated amp(s) and pointed upstream to the source unit as to where the unwanted noise is entering. Which, as stated earlier, is not A wet sounds or tige component.

[hcooperrn]

I can get a picture in the next few days, it's two amps in the normal spot, three RCA inputs in the big one for the sub, bow, and aft zones. Smaller amp below with one set of RCAs in for the tower speakers.

Shutting the TT off shuts off the amps, so can't completely isolate without jumping a wire somewhere? I did unplug all RCAs so that no other inputs were coming in, and then moved my phone input through the different zones, all having the same effect, even the sub.

I'm not having the hissing noise others are also having - unless I'm playing through my satellite radio going in through the aux jack, then I'm getting electric noise pretty bad that I can't seem to get rid of, tried several different hot and ground locations under the helm, may have to run new wires for it.


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[freeheel4life]

Cooper-
If you are plugged directly into the inputs for your tower speaker amp then you have effectively bypassed the ICE. Believe that on both amps there is only one set of RCA inputs so if you are plugged into them with your phone you have eliminated ICE. You just need to verify which amp is in boat and which is tower. Sounds like if you are still getting clipping with your phone plugged in directly it is going to be your amp. Just my 2cents

[chpthril]

I'm not having the hissing noise others are also having - unless I'm playing through my satellite radio going in through the aux jack, then I'm getting electric noise pretty bad that I can't seem to get rid of, tried several different hot and ground locations under the helm, may have to run new wires for it

.

You need to wire the SAT receiver to the amps, same as the head unit is, not under the helm.

Shutting the TT off shuts off the amp

Ok, totally expected that the speaker noise would stop is the system is powered down. Like an engine rod knock going away when you shut the engine off.

[freeheel4life]

Haha just posted and when I refreshed your response was up. Three inputs on larger amps makes sense for zone control. I was being a dummy. Sounds like you've isolated your particular clipping issue to being amp related. At least you've got something to point your first get at now.

[Bakes5]

Not sure if 17s are different, but I can play stereo with TT turned off. Just use the head unit in the glove box

[hcooperrn]

No separate head unit - everything is on the TT now, the Murphy ICE box is an expansion unit that is integrated into the TT. It's a little black box in front of the helm bulkhead on mine, has all the various inputs coming in, a line going to the TT, and then the RCA outputs that head to the amp.

Chpthril - I'll double-check, but I'm pretty sure the ICE box is powered from the helm bus (which I'm pretty sure is powered off the house battery, it goes hot when the switch is in position 1, key still off) unless there's a power line heading over to the port side that I missed. That's why I thought it would be safe to power the satellite receiver on the same bus. Freeheel or Koolaid, either of you know for sure where the Murphy box is pulling power from?


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[hcooperrn]

Here is a looong thread on DSP in the Malibu line
http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.p...stereo/&page=1

Finally made it through this whole thread; Mike I noticed you were over there too, have you heard about this issue with the DSP amps other than Tige and Malibu?

Let me summarize what we've got and are experiencing, please correct me if you see anything wrong:

• No 'separate' head unit anymore. Audio is processed in (in Tige) by the Murphy Infotainment Core Expansion (ICE) that is coordinated with the Medallion Interface driving the TT.
• This creates an all-software approach, and is manufacturer specific, which is why we lost satellite radio ready.
• The features of this setup include on-screen zone control, auto-volume, and source selection
• Wet Sounds DSP amps. All normal amp tuning characteristics (cross-over, gain, phasing, etc) are setup by the factory and loaded as software, no user-end adjustments
• DSP technology utilizes microprocessing controls to drive the sound; if the there is no input, or if the input is below the input level set on the channel/amp, it will clip(cut) the channel
• The amps through the speakers, all being Wet Sounds, are setup to get the right amount of power and drive everything correctly. I don't doubt this, it sounds pretty good when everything is turned up

So now, if that summary is correct, it sounds like the amp is clipping because the input is below a threshold, which leaves two hypothetical solutions:

• Increase the signal strength from the Murphy box to the amp to avoid falling below the cutoff level
• Would this cause the overall minimum volume to be too high?
• Decrease the cutoff point on the amp to allow lower input levels to pass through
• Not sure what possible harm there could be here, it would be just like a normal amp being 'on' all the time, right?

I'll be feeding all of this to Tige as we go, hoping that in the end, it will be as simple as getting a new flash update for either the amp or the Murphy system and it will be all better.

[chpthril]

Although I have not had hands on experience with the noted complaints, I have been keeping up with all the threads, out of interest.

Even though we dont have a traditional head unit as in a clarion or polk namesake as in the past, and the audio is more integrated then it ever has been, there is still a main audio source unit. So when you read "head-unit" take it as source unit

The deletion of SAT Ready, is by choice on the part of someone and no other reason. SAT receivers these days uses a universal protocol and connector, so it not hard to place it in the unit during the design phase.

You can increase the signal strength simply by turning up the volume. This creates audible music, which seems to be the reason for turning it down to begin with. Doing this by way of a line driver of by increasing the source units line level potential, nets a similar result. We get audible music at a lower volume dial setting.

[Surf Captain AZ]

has anyone heard from Tige on a fix? We had our big amp swapped out this week and will have the first test on the lake this weekend, the small amp is coming in Monday and the dealer will swap that out. We have now lost all sound to the tower speakers so the Amp has stopped working altogether so the new amp should at least fix this problem. Spending this much money on a new boat and having the sound system issue is extremely frustrating to say the least.

[hcooperrn]

The latest I've heard is that Wet Sounds and E controls are supposed to be at the factory next week. They have a boat at the factory having the same issues, so hopefully they get it sorted out. Sounds like it is limited to the Z boats at this point, so it's either something unique to the amp tune for the boats or the ICE setup for our TT style.


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