Winterize (Colorado) Question on MP 340 - Antifreeze Needed in Block???

[co99tj]

Hey All - another first for me (first time owner and thus first time winterizing a boat) - need some guidance on properly winterizing my 2005 22v with the Marine Power 340. I've been doing a lot of research on the process and have read all of the basic steps...drain water from the manifolds, run at operating temp with stabilizer, etc...but I have a couple questions on some of the conflicting information I'm getting online and through the mechanics I've spoken with.

First is the antifreeze in the block. A lot of things I've read suggest antifreeze in the block and the use of a fogging spray to prevent corrosion. The shop I spoke with (Tige dealer) said that this is not necessary as he's never seen an engine fail from corrosion. Should I push for this in Colorado?

Second is the use of ethanol fuel. One recommendation I read was to add stabilizer to NON ethanol fuels OR to completely drain the tank filled with an ethanol fuel (thinking I can maybe just siphon this into my vehicle) and then add the stabilizer just for the remnant fuel remaining. The other recommendation I read said the exact opposite...to fill the tank full (with ethanol fuel) and add the stabilizer. I can't get non-ethanol fuel in my area - so I'm stuck with it and have been adding Sea Foam to every fill-up. But...for the boat sitting for 6 months, what's the best practice...drain or fill?

The Tige dealer performing the winterizing charges around $350 for the service. I need to confirm what this includes - but I didn't hear him say anything about the transmission fluid, etc...should that all be part of a normal winterizing service? What are the key components of the service besides draining the block, oil change, disconnecting batteries, lubing cables, etc.?

Thanks for your help!

[chpthril]

Just my opinion, but antifreeze is not needed if s thorough draining is done. Given that RV/Marine antifreeze is not designed to be diluted, a complete draining is needed anyway. Is AF good for slowing corrosion during layup? I think so. However, a guy on the TeamTalk MC site, did some experimenting and come up with some interesting results. Ill see if I can find the thread.

Regardless of ethanol, I think some form of lay up fuel treatment should be used. I like the blue Stabil. With a good dose of that, I would not lose sleep over having a tank of ethanol blended fuel.

Full or empty tank seems to be a good debate. Do a search here and you will likely find a couple of threads. They will likely contain most of the same opinions as you will get currently.

[BCRider]

My neighbor is the manager at BD Diesel Performance and a red seal mechanic. I've spoken to him about most of these types of things over the years.

Fogging Oil: If exposed to any kind of moisture then yes, corrosion can occur. To me it's cheap insurance. What most on here would advise though is not spraying it down the intake but rather pull each plug and spray directly in. You'll need to turn the motor (by hand) to make sure you have gotten each cylinder.

Antifreeze (RV): I don't think my boat ever sits in freezing temperatures for any real amount of time where something could happen but once again it's cheap insurance. If you had a heated garage or one that never really hit freezing you could drain the water and most likely be ok. I fill mine with Antifreeze so I now I'm good. We are talking less than $ 100 for antifreeze or a few thousand dollars for a new block.....you pick.

Gas: I personally try and get through as much gas as possible near the end of the season so I can lay up next to empty. The fill up before was because of metal tanks and condensation which isn't an issue with our plastic tanks. I use stabil for what's left. I'd rather put in fresh gas at the start of the season than have to burn through a full tank of old gas.

Tranny: To me if you are going to do this service I'd wait to do it in the spring.

What the dealerships sells you on that they do and what they actually do is the million dollar question. I do it all myself so I know it's done and costs a lot less than $ 350.00.

I also do a complete detail; vacuum(very last) clean and protect vinyl. Pull everything out of the lockers so the boat can be 100% dry. Have a general look at everything. Address any other issues or start making my notes for next years to do list.

[sandm]

agree with chp...

I do the following and have with my supra and now the tige with no issues to date...

-drain block completely including heater core. leave empty.
-fog engine cylinders. NOT thru the intake.
-fresh oil.
-full tank of gas(try to buy nonethanol last few outings to eliminate most ethanol in the tank) then sta-bil. I have left a tank of midgrade ethanol over the winter with sta-bil a few years ago and boat fired right up next spring with no noticed performance issues.
-drain and remove all ballast and allow to dry.
-disconnect batteries and charge occasionally over the winter.

put her to sleep and enjoy in the spring.
boat here is stored in a brutal climate(not called the frozen tundra for fun) however shop it's stored in maintains a 60deg temp all winter. if it was stored outside, I would consider antifreeze but not sure I'd use it. if the block is 95% empty, the remaining water that is in there will freeze outdoors, but as it expands, it will have room to grow. that's the death of freezing water is when the block is full and has no where to go but thru the metal or freeze plugs.

[Lamest]

I had an 08 MP 340 in my beloved 24Ve. I would usually change the oil a week prior to winterizing, and get out one final time to make sure the oil was clean, and levels were proper.

Storing for winter, I made sure it was dry, but kept outside under a carport in North Idaho. We get pretty solid cold snaps that hover around zero degrees (f.) for days at a time. That's plenty low to bust some stuff up if there's water stuck with no room to expand.
After the oil change, I would drain the block and exhaust manifold - 2 exhaust manifold wingnuts, 2 knock sensor bolts, drain the transmission/outdrive cooler - 5/16th on the starboard side hatch, on the bottom side and toward center of the boat, and the heater. It was almost a spartan challange blowing the heater core out by lung pressure alone. I think it's a bit easier if the nose of the boat is higher than the stern. Stop trying to clear the heater by mouth if your eyeball stars turn into the event horizon and you black out on the engine cover! (My brother in law can blow balloons up from his nose. He made it a point of proving he could blow out my heater with his nose.) There was also a hose on the bottom of the low pressure fuel pump that always had water in it; disco that sucker and feel better about possible freezing over the winter.

After I pull all these plugs and hoses, I'd take the boat for a bumpy drive to the launch, to get it on a steep angle and drain all the extra water out of the bilge. I think the drive with all the plugs out helped "shake" water out of areas, as I never had a problem getting things going in springtime.

I never used antifreeze in the block, or fog the cylinders, but I would but add a quart of stabil to a quarter full tank, prior to last ride, and before laying up for the winter.

All ballast bags get taken out, and stored elsewhere.

Battery cables would get zip tied into common groups and labeled, then disco'd. Pull the batteries and store in a garage for trickle charging, or face the wrath of loose cables, and problems in the spring.

I'm usually on the water until early October, and will put it back in in late Feb/March (And rewinterize after realizing it's not summer yet!). I'm not layed up for more than 6 months at a time.

It's time well spent learning how to do this on your own, and trusting your work.