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Tearing into the Rear ballast

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    Tearing into the Rear ballast

    So I began thinking I had some passive draining (which I am sure I do) so I said what the hell lets cross drain and instal check valved in the vent lines. As I began diving into the system I realized what a cluster this system is...

    First... why in the hell has Tige hard plumbed 2 of the three fittings with barbed 90s and then installed a super easy convenient quick disconnect for the fill? Whats the logic? There is none. Why are they not cross draining from the factory? With Taps 3 the boat is still leaning over in excess of 5 degrees, if slammed the ports are still below the water line..... I just dont get it, why still the issue.

    Secondly, my port side drain line was cut so short and is pulled so tight just to get to the bag that it single handedly destroyed the threaded welded drain port. Here I was thinking I had an issue with passive draining which I know I do to some sort but the majority of it has just been the massive leak running down into the bilge and then kicking out via auto bilge before I could notice..

    I just dont understand what is happening here.......... All the R&D and 3rd party bag makers are beating their *** up and down the block.

    It isnt rocket science, Im not a boat maker but im looking at it with simple easy fixes... they cant possibly be this oblivious......

    Here I am stripping a brand new boat down to make it correct, super frustrating...
    Germaine Marine
    "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

    #2
    If it makes you feel better, this time is my fill plumbing.

    image.jpg

    Guess I know why my fill times are off.

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      #3
      I had my bags replaced due to the starboard side bag fill fitting pulling out as well.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #4
        Both my new RZRs I had to completely rework the ballast systems so they worked right. Same issues your describing. This isn't a new issue.

        Kinked hoses, improper routing, hoses way to long and to short. I've see it all. 2014 when they decided they needed 2 vents on everything was the worst. Hoses running every which direction that year. Made a tangled kinking mess.

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          #5
          Same here. 2014 R20.

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            #6
            The only issue I see this year that seems to be common is they cut the port drain line 10 inches too short. Drastic difference in length from starboard to port. The rest of the routing when I had it apart was pretty clean and well secured. The vent lines should all be check valved which is a head scratcher and the reality is that the drain lines should all be crossed. Maybe when testing they didnt run taps 3 fully deployed which in turn didnt rock the boat over far enough to pitch water out, i dont know. I would hope that they fix that. I wonder if guys with the hard tanked RZX are having the same issues..... I could see that being a nightmare...
            Germaine Marine
            "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

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              #7
              I know that it was said above that the TAPS 3 creates some list, but on the RZX I test drove it seemed negligible. I really thought it was level. I would bet it really isn't necessary to do the whole cross vent thing if you did a high loop. If the drainage is a problem, then since the boat is full on both sides, wouldn't you then have the opposite problem and still get drainage from the opposite (high) side when the boat does start to list? The cross venting was created when only one side was weighted at a time.

              Why wouldn't a high loop on the drain line work? That worked perfectly for the 24V ballast install I did this spring. And that boat is listed.
              Be excellent to one another.

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