The gray set is definitely the front right and left. The black is going to likely be rear/sub. Its very common for the black to be selectable between full range for rear speakers or low-pass for a woofer. So IMO, I would make sure the black rear is set to full pass and NOT sub or low pass.
With a single 4 chnl full range amp and mono amp. I would use the gray front RCA to the 4 chnl. A pair of splitters may be needed. Use the 4 chnl to drive the tower pods only. Use the black rear to the mono amp for the woofer. This leaves the two 6x9 and two 6.5 to be driven by the head unit, until a new 4 chnl can be installed. Of course, this is based on there being enough of the leads left to splice into for the speakers. If not, then you will need to wire all eight speakers to the 4 chnl amp.
Wiring for the head unit:
yellow = constant B+ (common post of the main battery switch same as amps)
black = ground with amps
red = switched B+ (either a rocker or key switch)
blue/wht = amp turn-on output
wht = front left speaker + and -
gray = front right + & -
purple = rear right + & -
green = rear left + & -
solid is + and BLK strip is -
With a single 4 chnl full range amp and mono amp. I would use the gray front RCA to the 4 chnl. A pair of splitters may be needed. Use the 4 chnl to drive the tower pods only. Use the black rear to the mono amp for the woofer. This leaves the two 6x9 and two 6.5 to be driven by the head unit, until a new 4 chnl can be installed. Of course, this is based on there being enough of the leads left to splice into for the speakers. If not, then you will need to wire all eight speakers to the 4 chnl amp.
Wiring for the head unit:
yellow = constant B+ (common post of the main battery switch same as amps)
black = ground with amps
red = switched B+ (either a rocker or key switch)
blue/wht = amp turn-on output
wht = front left speaker + and -
gray = front right + & -
purple = rear right + & -
green = rear left + & -
solid is + and BLK strip is -
Comment