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Getting ready for Lake Mead

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    #31
    oh that was a mistake the pump (I think) is still working the transmission oil cooler is where they say the water leaks in from.
    Its a little hard to see but the pump is the bottom left pully and the cooler is behind it with the brass fittings going into it.


    IMG_20160901_154724738.jpgIMG_20160901_154834130_HDR.jpgIMG_20160901_154839893_HDR.jpg

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      #32
      Originally posted by Goodtimes619 View Post
      Yes I have dual batteries and a switch, I have a 3rd at my house I will throw in there if its still good. I am putting the sound system on hold right now still having tranny issues, I can go to mead with out music but cant go with broken tranny.
      i totally hear ya! If you get to where you are ready to work out the audio and battery/switch issues, hit me up.

      seven oh 4 - six 1 six - 4 seven four 9. Other wise, hope to see you at the lake.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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        #33
        awesome thanks

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          #34
          So you need a new trans cooler?
          Screen Shot 2016-09-01 at 7.42.16 PM.pngScreen Shot 2016-09-01 at 7.41.51 PM.jpg
          Last edited by TeamAllen; 09-02-2016, 03:17 AM.
          Mike Allen, Tigé owner since 1997

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            #35
            Yep, guessing the trans cooler is bad. Easy swap out, just to make sure nothing got overlooked. You did make sure to put the key in the prop shaft right? If it is just revving passed a certain point the shaft maybe just free spinning inside the prop... Just think of this as a double check question, not insulting your intelligence
            My life's journey is not ending up looking pretty, its sliding in broadside, used up, worn out, screaming "What a Ride"

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              #36
              The prop was never removed, I unbolted the shaft from the trans and slid it down. Does the cooler and the lines need to be purged? if so it might be possible that there is no water leaking but its just getting air rated and that is causing the slip.

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                #37
                I don't like wasting money on replacing parts that are still good, so I asked many shops to do a pressure test on the trans cooler. Every one said no, the ones that said yes on the phone took one look and said its not possible. I don't like that answer and will not accept it, so I devised my own home made pressure test. I dried the trans cooler over night allowing any residual fluid to leak out, blocked one end and carefully filled the other end with water, I then blew up a glove and ziptied it on the other side, I tilted the whole thing slightly to allow the fluid to come out, even if it was a small drip I would be able to see it. When I squeezed the top glove it immediately got a stream of light pink fluid and it quickly turned into a clear stream. This confirmed my suspicion that the trans cooler is bad. I can now replace it with confidence that i actually need this part. Hopefully this will cure my transmission slipping issue.

                And they told me it was impossible


                IMG_20160903_132144104.jpg

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                  #38
                  Good for you on the test! Not only did you figure it out in your own but you also weeded out many shops that don't deserve any of our business.

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                    #39
                    Nice! Any update Goodtimes?!

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                      #40
                      not yet, the upholstery should be finishing up this week and i am still waiting on the ATF cooler to come.

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                        #41
                        I started on the audio wiring today. When I started pulling off the tape this is what I found. There are many wires that don't connect to anything and just need to be removed, and many others that have been spliced and have an open live wire floating around.

                        IMG_20160907_123537594.jpgIMG_20160907_130157000_HDR.jpgIMG_20160907_123751927.jpgIMG_20160907_123625969_HDR.jpgIMG_20160907_123625654.jpgIMG_20160907_123610279_HDR.jpgIMG_20160907_123605612_HDR.jpgIMG_20160907_123556285.jpgIMG_20160907_123544850.jpgIMG_20160907_130608788_HDR.jpg

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                          #42
                          Wow, thats some mess there.

                          Once you work through the obvious wiring no-nos and wtf's, id suggest terminating the amp B+ cable(s) to the main battery switch, rather than battery direct.
                          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                            #43
                            I'm sure you have chpthril breathing into a paper bag right now.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by UNSTUCK View Post
                              I'm sure you have chpthril breathing into a paper bag right now.
                              LOL, yeah, u take it one splice at a time and it can all come together.





                              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                                #45
                                I have 3 sets of RCA cables the AUX is the red and the amp with speakers and sub was running on the grey so I am assuming that the black is a bass line only. What if I run the 6X9 and the round 6 off the head unit instead of the amp, and the tower speakers on one amp and the sub on the second amp.

                                Do you have a wiring diagram I cant seem to find one online

                                IMG_20160907_213837996.jpg

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