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2015 Z3 Dead Head Unit and Transom Remote Help

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    2015 Z3 Dead Head Unit and Transom Remote Help

    Last night while out on the boat the volume on my stereo cut down to what I would guess a level 5 or 6. When this happened my Polk head unit and transom remote went dead. The music was still playing via bluetooth on my phone but I lost all control. When I attempt to power the Polk unit on through my Tige Touch it acts like it wants to turn on with the little light in the circle going around but never does. I've checked the connections and fuses to no avail. Could the head unit be fried? Any help is appreciated.
    Last edited by Bubba08; 06-24-2016, 05:15 PM.

    #2
    Did you try to turn it on right at the head unit? I would start by checking battery voltage across the black and yellow, then black and red turn-on wires at the back of the head unit/black box.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Originally posted by chpthril View Post
      Did you try to turn it on right at the head unit? I would start by checking battery voltage across the black and yellow, then black and red turn-on wires at the back of the head unit/black box.
      CHP you're going to have to explain this to me in layman's terms. I am a newbie when it comes to this. How do you check the voltage and what should it read? However I did try to power the unit on directly from the glove box with no luck.

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        #4
        Ok good, this reduces the chances of it being a remote issue.

        Voltage at the back of the head unit should be battery voltage, around 12.5V DC. You can measure the voltage right at the battery first to get a base line. The best way to read voltage is with a cheap digital volt meter. $30 bucks at a hardware or auto parts store will get you a decent volt/ohm meter that will do all the basic stuff. Use the head unit chassis as your ground point and back probe the yellow terminal and then the red terminal with key on (or what ever needs to be turned on so the head unit is normally powered up) for battery voltage.

        If you have voltage on the yellow, you also know that the head unit ground is good, since your meter lead is clamped on the head unit chassis

        no voltage on the yellow, move the meter ground lead to another ground like the back of an ACC socket or one of the amp ground cables and test yellow. If voltage now, you know the head unit ground is the issue.

        If no voltage on yellow, then find the fuse or breaker for the stereo

        If no voltage on red, trace it back to the key switch or other source as its whats called switched ignition.

        Those 3 circuits are all thats needed to make a head unit power up.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          Ok good, this reduces the chances of it being a remote issue.

          Voltage at the back of the head unit should be battery voltage, around 12.5V DC. You can measure the voltage right at the battery first to get a base line. The best way to read voltage is with a cheap digital volt meter. $30 bucks at a hardware or auto parts store will get you a decent volt/ohm meter that will do all the basic stuff. Use the head unit chassis as your ground point and back probe the yellow terminal and then the red terminal with key on (or what ever needs to be turned on so the head unit is normally powered up) for battery voltage.

          If you have voltage on the yellow, you also know that the head unit ground is good, since your meter lead is clamped on the head unit chassis

          no voltage on the yellow, move the meter ground lead to another ground like the back of an ACC socket or one of the amp ground cables and test yellow. If voltage now, you know the head unit ground is the issue.

          If no voltage on yellow, then find the fuse or breaker for the stereo

          If no voltage on red, trace it back to the key switch or other source as its whats called switched ignition.

          Those 3 circuits are all thats needed to make a head unit power up.

          Thanks Mike you're awesome! Will you clarify for me when you mention no voltage on the yellow twice? So I'm guessing if there is at least 12V at the unit on all 3 circuits it's the unit that's bad?

          Comment


            #6
            So found the problem... when the dealership installed my Wetsounds Dustribution Block they neglected to tighten down the positive battery terminal. It was not even finger tight. Tightened that up and everything is back to good. Thanks again Mike for always taking the time to help out.

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              #7
              Report back after 2-3 trips out and let us know one way or the other.
              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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