Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mooring whips question on spacing

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Mooring whips question on spacing

    I mounted my boat whips on the dock today. The boat will only be there for a few days in a row each time. My question is the instructions said to make sure to space out atleast 2/3's the length of the boat. The cleats on the 22ve are only 9 feet apart less than half of the reccomended distance. What do you do on this and will it be an issue? When I mounted the bases of the whips I just did the 9 feet. Will this work or am I asking for trouble? Should I attach to the front cleat on the boat and move the other base further apart so I can attach to the rear D ring on the back of boat?

    #2
    i use the front cleat, and then the side cleat behind the tower and I pretty much went directly out from them, works great. You should see mine if you do a search

    Comment


      #3
      I looked for the post, but couldn't find it. So you used both of the cleats and have had no problems? No problems with whip rubbing the tower or Bimini top?

      Comment


        #4
        I have personally experienced this, but I have seen boats with the whips hooked to the rear and front trailer hooks. That might be a better option

        Comment


          #5
          I don't think spacing of the whips is critical of you do the spring lines correctly. When the water gets rough I find the spring lines are more critical to keeping the bow and stern off the dock that the whip lines. The further forward and back you can tie the spring lines the better. Here is a photo of my setup. Don't pay attention to the lift not being used, the stall width is not wife enough for our boat. We will get that corrected this year.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

          Comment


            #6
            So the spring lines attach to the base of the whip?

            Comment


              #7
              the whip lines attach to the base of the whips which then go to the top of the whip through an eyelet(pulley) and down to your boat cleat. If you read the manufacturers setup directions there is supposed to be very little to no bending in the whip at a neutral pos.( ie calm water the boat at rest). Then you run your dock lines from the dock to boat cleats or wherever you tie off. You should run dock line attached to the dock at the back of the boat to the front cleat and vice versa so you essentially stop your boat from going forwards or backwards. How tight you have the lines will influence how far away your boat will be from the dock as well. This year I will be using a dock line snubber as well to reduce the harsh jerking on the dock lines from big rollers. With this setup boat stays nice and safe away from dock. When we want to board the boat, we pull in on the dock line jump in and undo the whips. There is a catch I found though, I like to remove the front pole and lay it down on the dock when I leave to go out so that when I come back I do not catch the tower on it. There are some newer poles that allow you to stand the whip straight up and down to avoid this prob. I might look into making a diff. base for this very reason. hope that helps

              ps the base of the whips also have a cleat there too. so you can tie off to them aswell if that is what you meaning.

              Comment


                #8
                If you get the top of the line Taylor made whips, in my picture, they return to straight up position when the whip lines are not attached to the boat. I don't have issues with the lines snagging the tower. The spring lines form an X from the dock to the boat. Basically they keep the front and back of the boat from hitting the dock and the whips keep it away from the dock. I got the 20,000 lb whips just because the water gets rough and we haven't had any issues.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                Comment


                  #9
                  yeah that is def a big improvement over mine is that yours can stand straight up. I will have to somehow make mine do that this year.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks guys will post pictures when I get it figured out.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The only difference is in the base. The base that I have had a rubber stopper that allows them to rock backwards when there is no load on them to get them out of the way.


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Here was my first go at it, still have to figure out the spring lines.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          that looks good, but where are your dock lines, I am just not seeing them or are they not there. If not you need them and they need to cross, attached to dock at back of boat to the front of the boat and vice versa, that is what actually holds your boat, not the whips.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I had one tied to front and rear, but not cris crossing. I think that was what I was missing. Thank you

                            Comment


                              #15
                              %100 have to cross. Without the spring lines the whips are pretty useless. Google mooring whip installation and there is a real simple diagram Taylor Made has.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X