DIY Bow Stop for Dock?

[rhoadsdj]

As mentioned in a previous post - I'm moving into a wet slip with a lift for the first time. I've got my bunks adjusted so my skegs don't hit, but currently have to eyeball it to make sure I don't run my prop into a cross beam. Anybody know of a clever way to create a bow stop I can mount to the dock or guide line of some sort to prevent me from ever hitting the prop?

I know I could move the entire lift forward in the slip and use the dock as a stop, but that is a ton of work and its not my lift...

[Wakeman22]

What brand lift do you have? I never drive my boat all the way into the slip or lift but gently guide it in by hand. I use or my buddies use a foot to set the distance to the bow. Besides that my prop and shaft are now where close to the cross bars but I understand your concern. If you use some kind of a stop at the front my concern would be if after lifting the boat it would slide forward then when you let it down the front rub rail may make contact and bung it up. My lift is a boat floater and it raises moving the boat forward as it comes up so that has been a concern in my dock.

[007]

Is it possible you need longer legs on your bunk assembly? I had to buy longer ones to accommodate clearing a crossbar on my lift.

[Bryan]

I would second raising the bunks on your lift.. You should never be close enough to a crossbar to have to worry about it.. That's just asking for trouble

[Captainkurk72]

There are several ways to make this work but need to know what you have. Post pics or make and/or type.
I just recently made taller bunk supports and adjusted my drop chains to mine and works great now. I have prop/rudder clearance and boat stops before hitting front of slip which I have done coming in too hot (beer involved).




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[rhoadsdj]

OK - I learned from the lift manufacturer that I can rotate the brackets 90° and this will gain me 4-5". This might be enough for the prop to totally clear. So - if I need to get only 1-2 more inches max - what is the best way to do this?

Rhoads Boat Lift.jpg

[Bryan]

The easiest way to gain a couple more inches would be to stack another carpet covered 2"x4" or 2"x6" on the bunks you already have and be done with it.. If you go that route, make sure you attach them from underneath and that your screws aren't too long. Also, be sure you use treated wood.. To do it right, I would pull the bunks off the brackets, pull the two bolts holding that bracket to the crossbars, and like the manufacturer said, rotate them 90 degrees. Bolt the short side of the bracket to the crossbars and reattach your bunks. Looks like the brackets are made for this option and already have all the needed holes... 4-5" of clearance is better than 2" when it comes to expensive props....

[Captainkurk72]

Looks simple enough and made to do just that. From the pic looks like a hole at the horizontal end for mounting the bunk. Just make what's horizontal now the vertical and bolt the bunk bracket to the top. Can't tell but looks like you may need to drill some holes on the part that is verifical now for mounting to the lift crossbeam.

While your at it, replace your bunk carpet and/or bunks. Most carpet stores around lakes have marine carpet. Use a electric or air stapler (don't glue). Very easy to do.


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[Bryan]

Those uprights on the back look to have holes already, but if you end up having to drill in the front ones, make sure you paint the holes you drill to cover any exposed steel that's not covered in the galvanized dip anymore.. Nothing good comes from rust..

[007]

Lifts are like big erector sets. I bet the holes line up and if they don't its not too hard to fabricate or swap out parts. Mine rides high on an oversized lift, but it gives me the clearance I need for the rotating axle/cross bars.

Lift kept.jpg