cranking the engine will generate the trigger, so no need for a scan tool. Just need to use a volt meter to test for B+ or B- on the appropriate relay terminal. If the ECM B- trigger does not light up on pin #85 (based on the diag) then test the circuit for continuity. if good then you know the ECM is not generating the trigger.
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Help.. Boat will not start
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Originally posted by chpthril View Postcranking the engine will generate the trigger, so no need for a scan tool. Just need to use a volt meter to test for B+ or B- on the appropriate relay terminal. If the ECM B- trigger does not light up on pin #85 (based on the diag) then test the circuit for continuity. if good then you know the ECM is not generating the trigger.
I know this bag is way to big.
Im a wakeboarder and can only seem to find mainly surf setups.
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Originally posted by dustinsnipes View PostThanks for all the help I should have it figured out by tomorrow. Need to get it running to move on to the project I was originally pulled the boat out for which is installing automatic ballast. I see you have a lot of experience with ballast what is the best bags that will fit in the rear lockers of the 20v and best bag to fit in the bow on top of the seats similar to this
I know this bag is way to big.
Im a wakeboarder and can only seem to find mainly surf setups.
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Regarding the no start, the ECM is a "low side driver" meaning it will pull it's input to ground to turn on the relay.
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Originally posted by ericinmich View PostJust a general forum suggestion, use this thread to discuss your no start issue. Start a new one for your ballast question.
Regarding the no start, the ECM is a "low side driver" meaning it will pull it's input to ground to turn on the relay.
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Originally posted by chpthril View Postcranking the engine will generate the trigger, so no need for a scan tool. Just need to use a volt meter to test for B+ or B- on the appropriate relay terminal. If the ECM B- trigger does not light up on pin #85 (based on the diag) then test the circuit for continuity. if good then you know the ECM is not generating the trigger.
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Does the engine crank? If not look at this thread for symptoms when the "neutral safety" is misbehaving.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...Throttle-issue
Also, you said you check the saftey lanyard. Did you electrically check it engaged and disengaged to make sure it changed? If you visually inspected it, I would electrically check it.Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter
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Given that trigger circuit is such a low current circuit, I would not trust a 12V test light and would actually be hesitant to use one on an ECM generated signal. A volt meter would be better, but i fell the outcome will be the same, the ECM is not generating that signal. And it wont if it does not see ignition RPM from engine, so replacing the ECM would not change anything if its an ignition module or crank/cam sensor issue.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by Stingreye View PostDoes the engine crank? If not look at this thread for symptoms when the "neutral safety" is misbehaving.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...Throttle-issue
Also, you said you check the saftey lanyard. Did you electrically check it engaged and disengaged to make sure it changed? If you visually inspected it, I would electrically check it.
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostGiven that trigger circuit is such a low current circuit, I would not trust a 12V test light and would actually be hesitant to use one on an ECM generated signal. A volt meter would be better, but i fell the outcome will be the same, the ECM is not generating that signal. And it wont if it does not see ignition RPM from engine, so replacing the ECM would not change anything if its an ignition module or crank/cam sensor issue.
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It's possible it's just the single output on the ecm that's faulty. By all means wire 12v directly to the pump and turn it over. If it starts then great but I think it's likely not the issue.
Probably better to get a computer hooked up than blindly replacing bits though.
On some mefi you can hook up a switch and led to get simple fault codes out if the ecm.
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Bypassing the computer could fix the problem if it was the Low Side Driver in the ECU. If it is any other issue in the ECM or something outside the ECM it won't be a long term fix.
There is a reason the ECU turns the fuel pump on. You don't want the fuel pump on at other times. Keep the pressure up and a leaky injector hydrolocks the engine or worse.
I'm betting it's the crank input to the ECU. It needs to see pulses to keep rely turned on. It wasn't clear to me when I read earlier posts, but is there spark at the plugs?
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I dont know what year MEFA system do a 2 second prime or only power the pump once the engine is cranking.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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