ballast bag drain

[Scrib]

My thought exactly, but our bags don't allow for this. I think Tige should and I have addressed it with them, put a extra fitting in the bags so we could use a standard pump like you show to drain when the factory system fails.

[Stingreye]

Are the new tige sac's just threaded barbs glued in so you can replace it with a quick connect? Or would you have to replace the entire sac. Seems like an area for Tige NOT to be cutting cost IMHO.

[chpthril]

Its a barbed thru-hull thats glued/welded in. No replacing anything unless you got lucky and the fitting let loose.

[IDBoating]

Tige makes their own fat sacs. I've personally watched their fabrication in the factory. Might be a good idea to drop them a note and suggest they add one "normal" threaded fitting to the top of each sac for emergency purposes.

[chpthril]

Here's my issue with an added threaded port for the intention of using the Fly High W730. Season #2 and the oring will have dried out a little, allowing the cap to rotate from its locks and pop open, draining the sac unnoticed, until the bilge comes on. I guarantee there will be more of those threads, then threads of full sacs and failed drain pumps. Anyone thats used fly high sacs manually filling them for a few season, knows those caps dont stay on tightly after awhile. Maybe keep a W731 in the port and only use the W731 if its needed. Even then, the W709 pump kits dont drain all the water through the top without lifting the sac and funneling the water toward the port.

[IDBoating]

I agree with everything you said, but this is for emergencies. Having a plug (W731) in the port is precisely what I meant, and if loosening is a potential problem then perhaps a touch of threadlocker/tiny bit of silicone/3M 4200 to prevent backing off would work.

Also agree that the W709 won't suck the sac skintight, but that's not the goal here. If in an emergency situation the W709 can deballast 95% of the weight, the insurance policy will have paid off.

Just my $0.02, YMMV, etc. Not arguing, just clarifying my points.

[chpthril]

A complete drain of the sac was the the subject the thread so thats what my comments are based on. The W709 may not do any better to completely drain the sac as the OEM pump. For an emergency drain when the OEM pump fails, who cares about 10% for sure, but to get the last 10% that the OEM pump wont, the W709 may not cut it without lifting the left of the sac. This might as well be done without the W709 and just the OEM pump get it.

[Scrib]

I have discussed with Tige about a secondary port for a safety drain, not sure if they have made any changes or not. I would take a chance on a leaking o-ring in season 2 vs having a full bag that you can not drain. Its a lot of extra weight on a trailer. Thanks for all you do chpthril, I wish you were in my area, I would love to have your work your magic on my boat.

[chpthril]

Have your dealer's tech call me next time he's in your boat with a partially filled sac, im happy to help them work it out.

[JLG]

bump- was curious if anyone has figured any system out for this as I boat in Zebra mussel lakes and fear going to others as I can't drain my bags all the way. I even pull them and tip up with pumps running but still can't drain the last 10 gallon or so in them. I would have to disconnect the entire bag which would be a pita!

[Stingreye]

Shop vac on the drain thru hull and block the vent thru hull. Should suck the bag fairly flat.

[JCP]

I always hit empty all just as we are pulling the boat up the ramp and let the pumps run for a couple of minutes while the boat is nose high on the ramp. Works great. Also recently added a check valve on the vent line as chpthril advises and now they suck down to zero.