Winterizing with antifreeze

[scr120]

This is the first year that our boat will be in storage for the winter instead of the garage, so we have decided to add marine antifreeze to the winterization process. It is my understanding from reading other posts that 1) the engine should be completely drained, 2) the plugs put back in, and 3) then run the antifreeze into the engine using the fake-a-lake until the antifreeze starts coming back out of the exhaust. Is this correct?

Also, what is the best way to put antifreeze into the ballast pumps? Does it work to use the fake-a-lake to try to suck the antifreeze in thru the fill pump? or is there a better way to do it?

What about the heater? Should that have antifreeze as well? and if so, what is the best way to add it?

Is there anything else I am missing? Any other advice for leaving a boat in storage over the winter? Cover on vs. off? Anything to keep critters out?

Thanks in advance!

[BCRider]

Yes, you'll want to drain all the water from the motor first then when you are ready you can fill with antifreeze. What i've done now is abandoned the whole underside fake a lake. If you pull the raw water hose off the inside you can use a piece of clear hose similar to the attached and run it straight in to a bucket full of antifreeze. Keep filling the bucket as it gets sucked out until it comes out your exhaust. The below is my fake a lake that I use. I'll just pull the one section off on the left of the ball valve and stick it straight in to a bucket.

If you plan on changing your oil do all of that first. People with argue whether or not you should change it for the resting season. The last couple years I've left the current oil in the boat and it's the first thing I change in the spring along with the filter.

I'll lead with it really depends on how cold and how often you have to worry about freezing temps. I usually just pull all the ballast lines and run my air hose down everything to empty the lines. You need to remember that as long as there is space for contraction you don't need to get rid of every last drop. I pull all my bags out so all the carpet can dry properly. I do the same for the heater line, I don't run antifreeze. I just disconnect and get as much water out as possible. Hasn't been an issue for me.

Biggest thing is to make sure your boat is 100% dry. I pull all the cushions and everything that is stored in cubby holes so that boat can dry out. Again, depending where the boat is you should leave the cover either loose or with a bit of a vent so air can move around a bit.

pull your impeller, lube or grease required joints or moving parts.

I get out the vacuum and give the boat a good cleaning. Same with all my vinyl. Malco cleaner followed by 303.

Depending on where you are storing it you may have to pull the batteries. I pull mine and keep them in my garage so I can put them on a trickle a couple times over the winter season. I also, wasn't allowed to keep them in my boat where I stored it.

[lee]

There is a much easier way to add the antifreeze than sucking it into the engine.

[nmriordan]

I do antifreeze but do not drain first. I use the reg antifreeze rather than 50/50 so I'm ok leaving the water in the engine and lines. Has worked well for us.

Used to use the fake a lake but now have an inline Perko flush kit and add through there.

BCRider mentioned the oil change. We do cover that prior to doing antifreeze. I think my 20v takes about 3.5 gallons. Towards the end of the bucket I fog the engine.

Also, at last run we treat the fuel with Stabil.

We also do tranny oil and impeller change every other year

Good luck


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[scr120]

Thanks for all the info! Do you leave the antifreeze in all winter or pull the plugs and try to drain it all back out?

[nmriordan]

We leave it. I get eco friendly stuff. First time out next season you just fire her up and you're ready to go.


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[bluebomb78]

Unfortunately I'm going to be winterizing my boat as well. I heard references to other methods of putting antifreeze in the engine. What methods are other people using to put the antifreeze into the engine? I saw the homemade method referenced above which I think it another version of the perko flush. The perko flush has mixed reviews with some claiming that it can fall apart and dumps water all over the place. Is there a disadvantage to using the fake-a-lake other than it's a bit of a pain and might leak some antifreeze?

Also, how do you ensure that the antifreeze makes it up to the heater core? Is this a thermostat type system where you need to run it long enough to get it all the way through the engine and up into the heater core or does it flow throughout the entire system immediately?

I also saw the Camco winterizer, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00, that I thought might help create the head pressure necessary to prime the tsunami ballast pumps. Does anyone have experience with the Camco system? I was considering using this to winterize my ballast pumps.

Thanks for any info!

[PaceWithGrace]

For my Tsunami ballast pumps, I plan to pull out the motors (cores) to drain them. Maybe I'll leave them out for the winter, and I'll close their seacocks to prevent an accident next spring

I'll have to look at pulling apart the one way valves too.

Also I may dump in a gallon of antifreeze in the vent holes of each ballast to handle any leftover water.

Thoughts?

[ajnesbitt]

I pull the supply and return lines off of the motor and blow the heater out with compressed air. Then add some antifreeze to one of the lines and blow it through also. Do this after all other work is done.

I drain all of the water and then pour the antifreeze in by removing the hoses on the T-stat housing. 1/4 gallon in each manifold. A splash for the pump and the rest in the block.

[Wakeman22]

Change your oil before storage. There are contaminates in it that you do not want to leave in the engine while stored. Fresh oil is way better than used oil.

[lee]

As winter approaches and boats are moved to storage, one of the most important things that any mechanic or boat owner can do to protect their vessels is to properly treat the fuel system. Unfortunately, winter (or any period of time without a lot of use) is a time when ethanol can wreak the most havoc on gasoline engines. This is because as the gasoline sits, the ethanol in the fuel can mix with water and separate from the gasoline. This is called phase separation. The resulting ethanol-water mixture turns into a thick, goopy substance that clogs up filters, fuel lines, carburetors and eats away at fuel tanks.

There are several actions that can help to combat phase separation. For one, fuel stabilizer should be added every time gasoline is put into the boat. Fogging the engine with fogging oil and fuel stabilizer will help to protect the internal components, especially the carburetor. Cleaning fuel injectors with specially-formulated cleaners is also beneficial. Fuel lines should be checked for cracks and softness, and changing fuel filters is a good idea, too. By doing these tasks, you significantly reduce the chances of damage to the engine from ethanol.

[Ruger761]

Unfortunately I'm going to be winterizing my boat as well. I heard references to other methods of putting antifreeze in the engine. What methods are other people using to put the antifreeze into the engine? I saw the homemade method referenced above which I think it another version of the perko flush. The perko flush has mixed reviews with some claiming that it can fall apart and dumps water all over the place. Is there a disadvantage to using the fake-a-lake other than it's a bit of a pain and might leak some antifreeze?

Also, how do you ensure that the antifreeze makes it up to the heater core? Is this a thermostat type system where you need to run it long enough to get it all the way through the engine and up into the heater core or does it flow throughout the entire system immediately?

I also saw the Camco winterizer, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00, that I thought might help create the head pressure necessary to prime the tsunami ballast pumps. Does anyone have experience with the Camco system? I was considering using this to winterize my ballast pumps.

Thanks for any info!

I made my own set up like this except I use an 800 tsunami screwed into the jug to ensure I have enough pressure on the hose vs just relying on gravity. Works really well.

[sea2sky]

I've been doing my own winterization for 5 years now, without issue. I live in Canada, and the boat has been through -40 degrees without issue. I've learned a bit each year. BCRider seems to have it mainly correct. I'd add a few things:

Fill your gas tank.
Add fuel stabilizer.
Bring your engine up to temperature with lake in a cup. It's an engine, and does have a thermostat in it for the top half of the engine. You need to heat the engine up to get the thermostat to open (for the flush later on). Let the boat sit, and change all of the oil. You should change it in the fall, not the spring. The use of the engine will change the pH of the oil, and corrosion is worse with used oil, than with new oil.
Bring your engine back up to normal operating temperature with the lake in a cup.
Disconnect the water pick-up from the water pump.
Drain the entire block of water, it will be hot! This includes the exhaust manifold, and the block itself (plugs on each side of the engine).
Hook a hose up to the intake side of the water pump (the hose you pulled off)
Put the new hose into a 5 gallon bucket, full of RV plumbing antifreeze (not automotive antifreeze)
Turn the engine on and suck the 5 gallons of antifreeze into the engine. Turn off the engine.
Drain the engine and exhaust manifold again. It will be hot. You will notice it is still quite diluted, and why we will flush the engine again.
Disconnect the line to the heater core. Use low air pressure, and flush out the heater core with air.
Install all the plugs and hook the engine back up (except the water pump intake).
Add another 5 galls of antifreeze to the bucket.
Turn the engine on and suck up all the 5 gallons. Fog the engine while it is running.
Hook up the boat - it will be launch ready in the spring.

Drain any water from the hull with your bilge. Jack up the front of the the boat if you can't get it all out with the bilge pump.

Depending on how your ballast tanks are arranged - if they are soft, remove them from the boat and drain all the water. Store them outside the boat.
Suck RV antifreeze into the ballast pumps - either from the intake on the bottom of the boat, or directly into the pump (uses less antifreeze). You can reverse the pump, and pour antifreeze into the pump intake.
Ensure the entire boat is dry before putting the cover over the boat for winter, otherwise there will be mildew in the spring.

I leave antifreeze in the boat all winter. I didn't use to, but found more corrosion in the block if I just left air in the engine. RV antifreeze typically has anti-corrosion chemicals.

[BCRider]

Good additions. I personally try and run my gas tank down so there's about a half tank or less. Condensation was an issue in the old metal gas tanks. The newer plastic ones shouldn't be an issue. I'd rather fill up my gas tank in the spring with the newest freshest gas to put through my motor than a tank full of old gas that I have to get through first.

[UNSTUCK]

Can someone go into more detail of fogging? How, what, where, when, why. Thanks.