Changed oil and installed FAE today - Oil change questions

[Jetter]

Gave my boat an oil change myself today after installing my new FAE. Wow was it hard to remove the old oil. Is there a better way?

I ran the engine (with fake-a-lake) until temp got up to 140. I tried this little 12v electrical oil pump I bought from Overtons to suck the oil out through the dipstick and no go. Pump not strong enough. Then I went and bought a small hand pump and tried again. Still no go. I tried inserting the hose at various levels and nothing. I then discovered (like the noob that I am) that there is a black drain hose coming off the bottom of the oilpan to the back of the boat. Are you supposed to remove the plug from that hose then quickly try and get it to pour out of the boat's drain plug? I assume that's what it's there for. Instead of doing that I hooked the hand pump to the end of that hose and managed to suck out the dirty oil.

After searching for the oil filter for 10 minutes and I finally found it and changed that out fairly easily but that is a dirty process too.

Any tips on future oil changes - I'm all ears!

Jetter

Here are pics of my FAE install. Took about 2 hours. Hardest part was drilling holes in the quick connect support tubes. A drill press would be highly recommended!

fae1.jpgfae3.jpgfae4.jpgfae6.jpgfae7.jpgfae8.jpg

[chpthril]

I used a inexpensive 12 pump for about 12 years till it quit. Replaced with this one http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...6-5l--11047123 both work through the dipstick on many different boats. Used the drain hose once on my Ve and went and hooked up the 12V pump. Didnt have a week to change the oil.

[mls6722]

I have the identical manual extractor as chpthril. I have used the extractor and also manual pump through the dip stick. It does not remove the last 2 quarts of oil on my 2008 22Ve. I must drain through the drain tube connected to the oil pan to get the oil out. I wish that drain line was long enough to extend out the boat drain plug so that the connection can be done outside of the boat. I use lots of absorbing pads in the bilge.
For the filter, loosen it slightly then put a large ziplock bag around the filter as you remove it. Lots of diapers in the bilge and near by to contain the mess. Once the filter is off, seal the ziplock to prevent the big mess as you take the filter off the boat.
You will love the FAE. Drilling stainless fittings takes a really good and sharp drill bit.

[lee]

Gave my boat an oil change myself today after installing my new FAE. Wow was it hard to remove the old oil. Is there a better way?

I ran the engine (with fake-a-lake) until temp got up to 140.

Any tips on future oil changes - I'm all ears!

Run the engine longer, run it long enough for the oil filter to get warm then the oil will flow out faster.

[skivt]

what is a FAE? Looks interesting and I wonder if there is a lot of drag caused by that downward pipe?

[JLG]

Run the engine longer, run it long enough for the oil filter to get warm then the oil will flow out faster.

X2 on that and loosen or remove top oil fill cap for it to breathe.

[BCRider]

I also have a similar manual pump as Chpthril. What I've done (after the advice of others) is I went to Home Depot and bought a brass fitting that I could screw on to the male end of the drain tube. The extractor pump comes with a few difference sized lines. The largest one will work with the fitting you buy. Because of the large diameter it also sucks out the oil a lot faster and easier than the small one you would have to use down the dip stick.

As mentioned. A plastic bag or zip lock under the oil filter is a great trick and now always do it myself. Don't forget to put a small amount of fresh oil on the rubber gasket before installing the new one. I also fill the filter with fresh oil before reinstalling.

FAE is great. Watch the hose clamps over the next bit as they will need to be snugged up a few times. You may not have as much of a issue as you have dual exhaust but with my single I found it put a lot of stress on the quick release pins. I got off the water one day missing both and my FAE hanging. I have since installed a proper bolt with Nylock nuts.

[Greeko]

I ended up throwing away the old hose clamps they supplied and put on T Bolt hose clamps

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/i...22-574329.html

They are so strong! They don't move at all!

[IDBoating]

Another vote for the fluid extractor. West Marine's is just a private label of the Mityvac 7400, which is available for quite a bit less from many online sources including Amazon. Then, make up the fitting as recommended so the biggest hose that comes with the extractor connects directly to the hose off the bottom of your oilpan. I can empty my engine's oil in five minutes with the boat sitting in the lake and me sitting in the passenger compartment, nice and comfy. No need to trailer it, you know it's "level on the water" because it really IS on the water, etc. Zero drips, zero spills, it's the closest thing you can get to making an oil change fun.

[Jetter]

Do you have a photo of this fitting? Does the hose from the extractor have threaded ends so it screws together with female end of boat ez-drain hose?

[Jetter]

I ended up throwing away the old hose clamps they supplied and put on T Bolt hose clamps

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/i...22-574329.html

They are so strong! They don't move at all!

Do you still have 4 on each rubber coupler with the t-bolt couplers?

[IDBoating]

Do you have a photo of this fitting? Does the hose from the extractor have threaded ends so it screws together with female end of boat ez-drain hose?

I don't have a photo, but it will be right there on your engine. Normally, the hose is routed from the oil pan to the top of the engine and clipped to something there to keep it from falling into the bilge. There is a threaded fitting on the end of the hose, covered with a threaded cap. Take that threaded cap and the fluid extractor's hose with you to the hardware store and rummage around in the "small fittings" area to find a fitting that matches the cap and another that matches the hose. Hook them together and you're good to go!

[Jetter]

I don't have a photo, but it will be right there on your engine. Normally, the hose is routed from the oil pan to the top of the engine and clipped to something there to keep it from falling into the bilge. There is a threaded fitting on the end of the hose, covered with a threaded cap. Take that threaded cap and the fluid extractor's hose with you to the hardware store and rummage around in the "small fittings" area to find a fitting that matches the cap and another that matches the hose. Hook them together and you're good to go!

Thanks - will do. Learned something else now as well. My drain hose is hanging out down in my bilge. I'll now fabricate some sort of clip to bring it up.

[BCRider]

Jetter, as WAboating said about the fitting. It will need to be a female thread to hose barb and just a small hose clamp to keep it on there. Going this route definitely makes the difference in your drain time.

I usually pump a bunch so the extractor gets a good suction and will then pull most if it by its self. I then leave it for a bit for the rest of the oil to settle in the bottom of the pan and then pump it a few more times to get the last bit out.

[BCRider]

Took a picture at lunch of the fittings I bought to connect directly to the drain hose. Was trying to explain to someone on WW. Anyways, two fittings to buy.