I will try to make a long story short. Last yr had issues w/ the boat overheating then going into limp mode. I took it to my local shop where they diagnosed the pump was not operating properly. They replaced it and I was good for the rest of the summer. I took it out for the 1st time this yr, it was doing ok for the 1st hr to hr and 1/2 then the temp started spiking again pinging at like 240, then sending the boat into limp mode. I called marine power to see about removing the whole FWC system b/c it seems to be more of a headache than do any good. They said I need to swap the t-stat out to a 160 then remove the blocking plate between the riser and manifold, re route some hoses and should be good. However when I talked to my local shop he mentioned something about the ecm thinking the t-stat is a 190 and I would now be having issues with the new t-stat and ecm. I guess my ? is.... how do I fix this and has anyone had similar problems. Thanks in advance!
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I would just ask marine power again about the ecm but I doubt that there is any programming around which cooling system is fitted..
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Dom from Forte's Inboard has been runnning that fix since 2004 in their ski team boat I believe and has a few thousand hours on it. Several others have done it. I think I remember the higher temperature is more of an emissions/catalytic converter thing for the automotive version of the engine and there is no catalytic converter on the marine so the extra heat is not needed. I have also heard of people swapping their T-stats to higher thermostats on different motors to get better performance out of their heaters and they didn't swap out the ECM.Originally posted by Todd Yost View Post
Hopefully, Dom will chime in but if Marine Power is also telling you to swap out the T-stat, that is likely the best move. Several on here have done it. I was looking at a Marine Power 6L before I bought my PCM 6L so I researched it pretty hard. Seemed like the T-stat fix works. I will see if I can dig up an old thread for you.Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount StarterComment
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Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount StarterComment
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I haven't read those links but the reason fwc runs cooler is to help prevent the salt from building up in the engine. Closed doesn't have that issue so can run hotter which is more efficient.
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Very interesting! Makes sense!Originally posted by chrissnow View Post
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o are you guys saying that all that has to be done is a t-stat switch? or does the whole fwc need to come off and switch the t-stat?Comment
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Just switch the thermostat only. No one has removed the closed loop cooling that I know of. I love the closed loop cooling on my motor. I really don't have to winterized in Southern California but if we had a freak cold front, having antifreeze in my engine block and heater is comforting[emoji3]. I would keep it! Plus almost all 6.0 l motors are closed cooled so I would be afraid of what would happen without it. I think indmar might have a raw water cooler 6l but Pcm and marine power are both closed cooled.
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To be clear, switch the thermostat AND add the washer to prevent hot coolant from going back into the block. The link with the mod should walk you through step by step.Originally posted by Stingreye View PostMods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount StarterComment
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I would think that to convert to FWC, there is more to it. A closed cooling engine would have a standard circ pump thats lubed by the antifreeze where as a FWC has a sealed bearing circulation pump. I have also been told that the aluminum head or block engines need the closed cooling for a more regulated temp.
I dont see the closed cooling as being the cause of the overheating, therefore, the root cause could still be there if the conversion to FWC was done. I woudnt convert until you know what the cause is.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And MoreComment
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Ya that is exactly what my shop is saying- don't take it off. I will do the mod and see if that is the culprit. Does the heat exchanger have to come off to get access to the t-stat housing?Comment
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Also looking at the pics on the how to, I am a little confused on how the toggle, washer, and 1" bolt work/are installed....Comment
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These pics?Originally posted by Todd Yost View Post
It looks like the washer blocks that hole and the toggle keeps it in place on the lip from the first picture. I haven't done this mod so I am just guessing.Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount StarterComment
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Todd, your motor is not the same one stingray has. His is a 6.0 LS based marine engine and yours is a standard 350 5.7 liter small block v8. Dom's conversion only works with the ls blocks. Also, for those reading, if you have EFI you must use a thermostat of at least 160* because the ecm changes the pulse width of the injectors with engine temp. Cooler engine temp, overfueling occurs to help warm it up. Once it's to temp, the injector pulse width narrows and leans the mixture to run more efficiently.
Check your coolant level first, then check raw water outflow on the trailer, then check t stat and replace as required. It's possible the raw water passages in the heat exchanger are getting plugged but start with the simple stuff first and report back and we'll go from there.Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...Comment
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Boatwakes, his profile is old. I think he mentioned elsewhere that he has the marine power 375 hp motor for a 2004 24 v. Isnt that the 6l from marine power that's ls style and needs Dom 's fix for overheating?
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