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How to measure the perfect wave

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    How to measure the perfect wave

    How do you measure the perfect wave (or any wave for that matter). In all the writeups, comparisons, articles, etc. the descriptions for quality of a wave behind a given boat is still very subjective. With all of the science and technology we have today, it seems we could do better. I started doing a little research and it gets very interesting. Anyway, the questions I would pose:
    Given unlimited financial resources;
    - what parameters of a wave would you measure to compare or determine a "good wave" ?
    - and just as importantly, how would you measure it?

    Could make a good doctorate thesis for a mechnical engineer type.

    #2
    In the ocean there are famous breaks that have specific wave characteristics, one of the most famous is probably banzai pipeline, which creates a large classic barrel and is host to several contests. The wave at pipeline is produced by the underwater topography which affects the ocean swells and channels the energy into the wave shape. Similarly, the shape of the hull of the boat will produce a slightly different wave when compared to another boat hull design.

    During the last 3 years boat manufacturers have developed various ways to get a clean face on a wake to be able to surf it, and these different methods give the wakes their own characteristics, and sometimes the ability to adjust the height of the wave, the break (how long the face is before it curls over), and the steepness of the face of the wave. Because of all these variables, and the subjective "feel" of the wave, it's going to be extremely difficult to quantify the parameters of a wave. There is also a term used to describe the feel of the energy in the wave, the "push" of the wave. Some waves are described as having a weak push,some have a strong push, on very similar looking waves and thats going to be the hardest parameter to measure.

    The only way I could imagine measuring the parameters of the wave would be to use some sort of motion capture system installed on the back of the test boat. Mount the camera in a location that can be replicated on all boats, such as 2' from the aft edge of the hull where the water flows freely, then make a string or net of the reflective motion capture balls that can be towed behind the boat, or maybe just dump or drive through a field of the reflective balls and track them as they move across the face of the wave. This method could measure the bottom and top of the wave and how far back from the point of reference the wave actually is before it breaks. As far as measuring push, you've got me, thats a difficult force to talk about, very subjective, and it will be extremely difficult to quantify.
    2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
    2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

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      #3
      Arial cameras from drones to measure or analyze the wave pattern. Divergent angle theoretically should be 19.47 degrees from direction of travel. http://www.fast.u-psud.fr/~moisy/wake/
      Possibly 3D mapping with white light laser. http://www.exactmetrology.com/3d-scanning-services
      If you could map out the wave in 3D you could get actual measurements of wave height, pocket depth and length, distance from the boat, position of curl. Then you might need speed or frequency of the wave, etc.
      Work has also been done using radar to map water waves.
      As you mentioned, I read that high speed photography was used in conjuction with other methods for analysis.
      Most research seems to be geared towards impact on soil erosion or catstrophic damage from tsunamis or storms, but the technology and science is there.
      We have used the laser mapping technology here at my work. It is all much more available and affordable than ever before. Hell, if we can get a 3D map we could then print out a solid form of the wave on our 3D printer.

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        #4
        There is a lot of work going on in aerial volumetric measuring - be it from UAVs or otherwise. The software is there, and the sensors are there. For instance, you can scan the size of a mound of dirt or gravel and then compute how much is there.

        Doing this on a wave would be about the same. The best you can do is measure the size and shape of each wave, and then compare them in a 3D modelling tool. As for which one is best, well that is up to the rider ultimately.

        A cool project if you have a couple hundred thousand dollars you don't need. I can supply the quadcopter :P

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          #5
          Maybe mount one of these to the quad copter. http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/%7Echinwu/EFM/ATSIS.html

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            #6
            Originally posted by Smcqueen View Post
            Maybe mount one of these to the quad copter. http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/%7Echinwu/EFM/ATSIS.html
            You don't need a quad-copter for that, just mount that rig on the stern of a boat.
            2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
            2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

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