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Just making sure I'm not making a mistake with my gelcoat

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    Just making sure I'm not making a mistake with my gelcoat

    I'm in the middle of removing some old decals off my 21v. The decals/glue are coming off fairly easily with a hairdryer, plastic scraper, and 3m remover. My question is, what do you guys recommend doing to the gel coat to eliminate as much of the "shadow" as possible?

    My thoughts were to get the PBC Stage I kit.

    http://www.performanceboatcandy.com/...age-I-Kit.html

    I'm new to gelcoats so let me know if I am heading down the wrong path...

    Thanks!

    - Matt

    #2
    Never used their product, but the basic tack is the same. I would start with a mild polish and a fine pad on a variable speed polisher. If the mild polish doesnt cut it, then try a little more course compound. Im partial to 3M Finesse for that.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      google search the hula boat care products and videos as they are very helpful. They have a rub compound just like 3m that works perfect for removing the shadow or swirls marks. They also sell other great products like the wax and polish. I don't have any experience with 3m but know they are excellent.

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        #4
        I would use the PBC Crystal Cut Compound, the stage 1 kit would be too weak to blend in the fresh gelcoat under the vinyl. How old is the boat? How much sun does the gelcoat see? You might even need to Extreme Cut Compound to get the chalky oxidized gelcoat surface off and get that original gloss back. Got any pics of the differences in the gel coats?
        2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
        2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

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          #5
          Boat.jpg

          Disregard the left portion because the 3M Adhesive remover hasn't been applied yet. The "lower" stripe on the right side of the picture has the adhesive remover done while the upper thicker stripe hasn't had the remover applied yet.

          I honestly feel like the oxidation isn't that bad on the boat, just normal fading for a 2000 boat but again I'm wiling to try whatever is best. The end product is going to be a mostly clean boat with either a custom graphic on the rear section or I might just purchase the newer chrome Tige emblem that is on the newer boats......
          Last edited by BurnMac42; 01-23-2015, 01:30 PM.

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            #6
            http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...highlight=hula

            Check this link out and look at the back black part of the boat under the 22ve decal. I used the hula 3 step restoration on this boat and it came out perfect. The videos they post on their site are helpful as I was nervous to buff on my gel coat also. There are also some areas on the front of that boat that had decal that were removed and as you can see the scratches and swirls are gone.

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              #7
              I really like the 3M products! they are a bit pricy but do a great job of getting off decal residue!

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                #8
                The Hula Riptide Liquid Compound or Performance Boat Candy (PBC) Crystal Cut Compound and follow up with a good polish and then some type of protectant like a polymer sealant. Using both compounds your going to need some type of machine, I recommend the Porter Cable 7424. It's a dual action orbital polisher. You're going to need a few pads, one for cutting, polishing, and sealing for just a start. Remember to keep your pads clean and get the residue off the pads as you go, here are some good tips on using machines:

                http://www.ammonyc.com/detailing/f40...ration-detail/
                2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
                2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

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                  #9
                  Thanks for the info guys!

                  Ewok, I'll be using an orbital for the compound.....I will probably go with the Hula kit since it comes with all 3 steps necessary vs the Stage I kit from PBC.

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                    #10
                    Lots of good buffing compounds out there. You do not need a 'marine' specific product. For light colored and particular white gelcoats go over it by hand with soft scrub with bleach first, then you can buff and polish it with any number of polymer or waxes. I like the hula products, babes, mequiar's, and 3Ms.
                    If you leave a strong bleach solution on gelcoat it will yellow it after 2-3 hours, but it does a great job of removing stains and discolored areas.

                    You can also use baking soda and water as an inexpensive light abrasive for cutting and stain removal.

                    Nick

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                      #11
                      Good tips chaos. I use Meguiars light cut compound to get rid of slight scratches in the gel coat, then follow up with a polish and then I do use a marine sealer. I've used the Hula Polymer sealant and it lasted well all year for me. I also wipe down with hot sauce after every day on the lake and I keep the boat in my garage so that helps the sealer last longer.

                      I read a few years ago that carnuba wax can build up in the pores of gelcoat and can slightly yellow the gel coat over time so I switched to polymer sealers such as the hula polymer sealant. So far my boat finish has held up and still looks new after 1 season with carnuba wax, stripped the wax and used the polymer for the last 3 seasons.
                      2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
                      2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

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                        #12
                        Wet sand with 2k then polish with 3m finesse it
                        www.1320diesel.com Home of the Fastest Diesels!
                        http://youtu.be/dEDdM0Y3IGs?hd=1

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                          #13
                          Yep you got it Ewok. Gel Coats look smooth but are pretty porous. That is where the bleach or other stain type removers comes in. Saves some of the elbow grease.

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                            #14
                            Where do you guys use the compound and then wax? Do you compound above the rub rail?

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                              #15
                              IMO, compounding is for fixing a blemish and waxing is for finishing and protecting. So only use a compound, cutter or course polish to address a spot, its not an all over type of product. Unless, you have a boat thats sat out in the sun and is totally oxidized. In the that case, yes, the blemish is all over the boat. So just like wood work, start course and finish fine, which would be the wax.
                              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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