Batteries for 2010 RZ4

[Bay Wake]

I have got to replace the dual batteries on my RZ4. Would like to get recommendations as to what to replace them with. Have had Interstate conventional ones on the boat for last 4 years. Should I go with the AGMs instead? Also, just got my Cabela's catalog which has their "Advanced Angler's AGM" on sale for less than $200 each. Claim they are good for both deep cycle and cranking applications. Anybody have any experience using these? Would appreciate any/all recommendations
Thanks!

[IDBoating]

My experiences:

I've had excellent results with Interstate batteries and will probably buy them again when the time comes. They seem to have better specs for a given size (battery "Group") than other brands.

On the other hand: A while back I replaced the batteries in our jetskis with Odyssey batteries - expensive, premium, top-of-the-line units. And they died in about the same timeframe as most of the other vehicle batteries I've had. I saw zero benefit to them despite their 2X price. Never again.

[sandm]

I used odyssey in an old mitsu evo as a cranking battery to save space for the turbo plumbing. good battery but as mentioned, short life.
I swear by interstate and would not buy anything but at this point. wanting to convert to golf cart batteries for the extra stereo life and I'll buy interstate for those as well.

[chpthril]

It will be a shoehorn fit, but I would suggest stepping up the amp hours from the original group-24 house battery. For the main cranking, a group-24 is sufficient.

[ericinmich]

It doesn't make sense a boat unless you really need more deep discharge ability in the same footprint (they handle that a bit better, but come with other limitations).

I have one on a 3 cyl diesel tractor as the vibration kills regular lead acid batteries.

[talltigeguy]

The AGM batteries want to be stored at the higher voltage. They die prematurely when not kept on a charger. I would doubt that the batteries above were kept on a charger, and I don't think I would really recommend such a thing on anything but a boat with a big stereo, but I bet that contributed to the early death of the batteries.

My Odyssey batteries are 5 years old and going strong. But they are always on a charger.

[IDBoating]

The AGM batteries want to be stored at the higher voltage. They die prematurely when not kept on a charger. I would doubt that the batteries above were kept on a charger, and I don't think I would really recommend such a thing on anything but a boat with a big stereo, but I bet that contributed to the early death of the batteries. My Odyssey batteries are 5 years old and going strong. But they are always on a charger.

FWIW, all of my vehicle batteries are maintained by Battery Tender Plus intelligent chargers. Including the two Odyssey batteries that died prematurely. YMMV.

I forgot to mention that one of the Odyssey batteries also developed stripped threads on one of its negative terminals. I've never had that happen before or since. And it was just one of the two terminals on just one of the two Odysseys. Maybe just my bad luck, but I won't be rewarding them with any more of my money... just too many problems, especially at the prices they command.

[wired1236]

I just replaced my old interstate with two kinetic batteries since my starter battery is an AGM too. I know all your batteries should be of the same type and age but the starting AGM is only a year old and I figured it's more important to be the same type than the same age. They are usually separated by the ACR anyway.

No issues with my interstate, just using them in my utility trailer and I can get dealer prices on kinetic so I'm giving them a try. They are expensive but they cost me only ~$ 40 more than an interstate deep cycle. We'll see how they work this season. Also put in a triple bank onboard charger this winter.

Don't think you can go wrong with interstate. Just bump up to a larger size of you have the room as Chpthrl says.

[Bay Wake]

Thanks all for the always good advice. As my batteries will not be on a charger during the season, seems like conventional vs AGM is the better way to go. I will look to see if I can shoehorn a larger group size in for the cranking one. Thanks Chpthrll! Also, seems like staying with Interstate is the way to go.

[chpthril]

Since your boat likely have the OEM Tige EIDB that uses a diode isolator, I would stick with a wet cell. The .7V drop across the diodes could leave an AGM slightly undercharged. Stick with the same size for the main cranking, but go larger on the house battery.

[Bay Wake]

Thanks so much Chpthril. Will get thru bigger size for the house battery and will stay with the wet cell.

[talltigeguy]

FWIW, all of my vehicle batteries are maintained by Battery Tender Plus intelligent chargers. Including the two Odyssey batteries that died prematurely. YMMV.

I forgot to mention that one of the Odyssey batteries also developed stripped threads on one of its negative terminals. I've never had that happen before or since. And it was just one of the two terminals on just one of the two Odysseys. Maybe just my bad luck, but I won't be rewarding them with any more of my money... just too many problems, especially at the prices they command.

Bummer. I don't want to make excuses for the batteries, but I do wonder if your charger was too powerful. My motorcycle batteries say not to charge with more than 800 Milliamps. I learned that after I killed a couple with my 2 amp intelligent charger. They just can't charge that fast. The Battery tender plus looks like it does 1.25 amps. Not sure if that matches up with the particular Odyssey that you had. No where on the Battery tender website does it state where the float charge is set at. I love my onboard charger now because it has settings for exactly what voltage the float charge should be maintained at. For Odyssey batteries that is 13.6V IIRC. The vast majority of lead acid batteries suggest more like 13.0 or so, IIRC. Maintaining a battery at a lower than optimal voltage is a leading cause of failure.

If I upgrade my next boat's batteries, I probably will go lead acid, unless the location makes me think having a sealed battery is better. In my current boat, I have the batteries under the seat, and a normal battery won't fit with a box. So the shorter Odyssey batteries are a must in that case. I would go away from them because they are finicky to charge, and so much more expensive.

[IDBoating]

Bummer. I don't want to make excuses for the batteries, but I do wonder if your charger was too powerful.

Perhaps. It would certainly be a drag to require battery-specific chargers for each type of battery one has lying around!

And that makes me wonder: If certain battery chemistries are sensitive to charge current, do they make different marine isolators for each one? You'd need not just diode isolation, but some form of voltage regulation and sensing to intelligently manage the recharge cycle when the alternator is spinning.

[chpthril]

They are in the bilge access thats just behind the in floor cooler. They will likely be a pair of cranking batteries. Unless CC has changed in the past few years, they ship boats without batteries and then credit the dealer for installing them. Most just put 2 cranking batts in unless the buyer specifies differently. CC offers the prosport-12 as their OEM charger.

[chpthril]

Perhaps. It would certainly be a drag to require battery-specific chargers for each type of battery one has lying around!

And that makes me wonder: If certain battery chemistries are sensitive to charge current, do they make different marine isolators for each one? You'd need not just diode isolation, but some form of voltage regulation and sensing to intelligently manage the recharge cycle when the alternator is spinning.

Yes, different battery types have different charge profiles. The quality charges allow for programming the charger for that specific type. As long as the alternator is not putting out excessive voltage, there are typically no issues. The problems come when a battery is over or under charged by a charger, while its NOT in use.