What is the durability reputation for this type of Ultra muffler on our boats?

[dakota4ce]

Guys, looking for real world feedback. I have read a bit about how fiberglass mufflers have cracking and leaking issues--but suspect lots of the problems are associated with the mufflers that are different from mine?

See below, does this type of muffler also have a "checkered past" for being durable? Anyone know? Please share.

IMG_4446.jpg

[zany]

I have had no issues with mine and I am the original owner on my 06 24ve.

[Stingreye]

I think Duffy and Topaz had trouble with a different style. Topaz replaced his with stainless pipe from Larry at fae and it was actually quieter I think.

[topaz surfer]

Yep mine had cracked a few times. Got tired of fixing them so just replaced with stainless straight pipe. Way nicer and yes it's quieter now than with the mufflers. Hit up Larry at FAE for sure worth it.

[boatwakes]

Those are also notorious for helping cause water reversion issues and blown engines, not enough drop from the exhaust/water exit from the engine to the lowest point of the muffler. I've moved some lower in the bilge with drop tubes or fiberglass exhaust elbows to alleviate the issue but plain and simple, they're bad news.

[dakota4ce]

Those are also notorious for helping cause water reversion issues and blown engines, not enough drop from the exhaust/water exit from the engine to the lowest point of the muffler. I've moved some lower in the bilge with drop tubes or fiberglass exhaust elbows to alleviate the issue but plain and simple, they're bad news.

What would be your recommendation--removal and then replacement with straight pipes? I really would like to keep the boat quiet as possible--I already own an FAE for the boat, FYI.

[dakota4ce]

Those are also notorious for helping cause water reversion issues and blown engines, not enough drop from the exhaust/water exit from the engine to the lowest point of the muffler. I've moved some lower in the bilge with drop tubes or fiberglass exhaust elbows to alleviate the issue but plain and simple, they're bad news.

I also considered reversing the exhaust risers--and routing the exhaust in the manner that came about in 2007--forward then down. Thoughts on that?

[topaz surfer]

I forgot to mention I also have a FAE on my boat and with replacing the mufflers with the stainless steel straight pipe and the FAE it is super quite. You can easily talk to the person surfing from in the boat. You actually hear the sound of the water making the wave rather than the motor.

[zany]

I forgot to mention I also have a FAE on my boat and with replacing the mufflers with the stainless steel straight pipe and the FAE it is super quite. You can easily talk to the person surfing from in the boat. You actually hear the sound of the water making the wave rather than the motor.

Do you have pictures of your straight pipe setup?

[zany]

I forgot to mention I also have a FAE on my boat and with replacing the mufflers with the stainless steel straight pipe and the FAE it is super quite. You can easily talk to the person surfing from in the boat. You actually hear the sound of the water making the wave rather than the motor.

Do you have pictures of your straight pipe setup?

[dakota4ce]

I forgot to mention I also have a FAE on my boat and with replacing the mufflers with the stainless steel straight pipe and the FAE it is super quite. You can easily talk to the person surfing from in the boat. You actually hear the sound of the water making the wave rather than the motor.

I find that interesting, perhaps I will call MP to see if I can reverse my risers and convert to a straight setup. Getting that old muffler out is gonna be interesting!

[boatwakes]

Yes to all of the above. However, here are some things to consider:
- If you want to move the muffler engine aft/boat forward, you'll need a considerable amount of increased drop from it's stock location and sometimes the transmission and v-drive can't accommodate this. Ideally, you want to imagine the boat weighted for surfing and still be able to have a 45* drop FROM the exhaust riser TO the muffler and most times this is impossible. You may want to consider running individual 3" or 4" mufflers down the stringers like the inboards have.
- I would also think the straight pipe to FAE would be the ideal way to go. This option allows for full exhaust flow from the engine to the outside of the boat with the only restriction at the FAE exit. Again, the drop FROM the exhaust riser to the transom is critical and should in no way allow the possibility of water flow back into the engine at any speed or planing angle.

IMPORTANT NOTE
- If you reverse your risers to face boat forward/engine aft you must do the following:
- Drain the water out of the manifolds via the lower connection hoses before starting any work. Once the manifold is drained, there is no possibility for water to enter the exhaust system when you remove the riser.
- Unbolt and remove the riser being careful to inspect the water passages for excessive corrosion and rust/blockage. If any of these areas are compromised or show signs of rust spots inside the exhaust passages, replace both manifolds and risers and consider yourself lucky. If they are okay, proceed.
- Scrape ALL old gasket material away from both mating surfaces using multiple razor blades. Remove any paint that may be on the mating surfaces as well as this will not allow the gaskets to seat and water will weep into the exhaust and your motor will die. This is also a MUST DO any time you install new exhaust elbows and manifolds.
- Don't use the Sierra green gaskets, they will leak over time (this is experience from years of seeing it on customers' boats).
- Torque the riser bolts to 45ft-lbs then run to operating temp and check for leaks. Then re-torque while warm to 65lb-ft. You won't find any manual that states this but I do it so I don't have any warranty claims.

[dakota4ce]

Yes to all of the above. However, here are some things to consider:
- If you want to move the muffler engine aft/boat forward, you'll need a considerable amount of increased drop from it's stock location and sometimes the transmission and v-drive can't accommodate this. Ideally, you want to imagine the boat weighted for surfing and still be able to have a 45* drop FROM the exhaust riser TO the muffler and most times this is impossible. You may want to consider running individual 3" or 4" mufflers down the stringers like the inboards have.
- I would also think the straight pipe to FAE would be the ideal way to go. This option allows for full exhaust flow from the engine to the outside of the boat with the only restriction at the FAE exit. Again, the drop FROM the exhaust riser to the transom is critical and should in no way allow the possibility of water flow back into the engine at any speed or planing angle.

See below. I would think that in either of these scenarios, the chances of water reversing course back into the motor would be very slim, correct?

IMG_4451.jpg

[Stingreye]

Dakota, love your diagrams! Can't wait to see how all your winter projects come out!

[dakota4ce]

Dakota, love your diagrams! Can't wait to see how all your winter projects come out!

LOL they aren't pretty, but they get the point across I guess. I am a pretty simple minded visual learner. I love all the engineers on this site that know all the details, they are the best. I am just a salesman, strictly BIG PICTURE.