My Winter Projects

[chpthril]

I'm thinking about boxing up the 10FA and trying it for a year. Does anyone have feedback on how it works in a box? I can also just cut holes in the back wall to create a bigger air space. Either is fairly easy at this point. It's all disassembled.

I would not enclosure the 10FA in a small enclosure, as its not designed for that. It needs a larger air space, which its not getting if the Z1 is the same as the Z3. Tige built the wall with a very small cavity. Opening up that wall so the back of the woofer is exposed and open to the mid-ship locker absolutely needs to be done for a woofer like the 10FA. Next, you need to feed the 10FA more than its current 155W rms. Easier said than the done, but doable.

Any way you slice it, a 12 will be an upgrade over a 10. But, its going to require a proper enclosure.

[Dandy]

However no stereo parts for me. I'm trying to decide what to do now. I've got about $1000 to spend on the boat so do I go for stereo upgrades (XS12 and WS420) or go for a cross pump and a soulcraft board??? Oh the decisions

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Since you seem to be looking for opinions and I happen to like giving mine, here it is. For now, I would suggest maybe trying to open the wall up and improve the 10FA output as there is a lot of options relating to subs. This would be very minimal since you already have things tore apart and Chpthril already addressed some of the issues for you How about considering the WS420 and the new Soulcraft Board? The WS420 is great for allowing the tower speakers to crank without blowing out the passengers...nice for surfing. You seem to mainly use your boat for surfing, so why not step up your board.

That being said - If your Wake9 sacs do not have the ports in the rear for the cross pump (mine did not, but maybe they have been added) then I would suggest adding these ports and the cross pump first as the bags are completely dry, making sealing in the new fittings easier.

[JohnnieMo]

The wetsounds website says a 1.3 cuft box for the 10FA so I guess I'm asking if free air is better than said box. Sounds like the consensus is that it is.

I haven't looked at the impedance on that 10. I assumed it was drawing the 600W available out of the bridged 5/6 on that Syn6 but it sounds like not.

It's dead easy to add some holes now with everything ripped apart. I guess I can start there.

Dandy I always love hearing your opinion! I sorta agree with you.... the boat is for surfing so get a good board. I have a Koal Fish and a Trident now and don't love either. Ragboy got me on to the Soulcraft but I'd really like to try one first.

And yes my bags have holes for xover pump. In my mind it makes more sense to plumb from the hard tanks as that way you can use that pump right off the bat rather than waiting for the 250lb hard tank to fill. However I'm not looking for more work.

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[chpthril]

The wetsounds website says a 1.3 cuft box for the 10FA so I guess I'm asking if free air is better than said box. Sounds like the consensus is that it is.

IMO, an infinite-baffle sub is better running IB, then in a small enclosure. So effort to open the helm up for an enclosure, is exactly whats needed to open it up so the IB 10FA runs properly. Now, if you want to compare an IB sub like the 10FA to any brand's 10" thats built for a small sealed enclosure, both running the same amplifier power, i'll take the woofer in a box any day.

I haven't looked at the impedance on that 10. I assumed it was drawing the 600W available out of the bridged 5/6 on that Syn6 but it sounds like not.

The 10FA is a single 4 ohm voice coil. To my knowledge, the 10FA is only wired to one chnl, so its power is 155W rms.

And yes my bags have holes for xover pump. In my mind it makes more sense to plumb from the hard tanks as that way you can use that pump right off the bat rather than waiting for the 250lb hard tank to fill. However I'm not looking for more work.

I agree, but do not think the OEM hard tank has an appropriate fitting for this. It would have to be on the back panel, lower edge, in order to work. Basically, right next to the one used for the stock drian pump. But think about this. It seems that the Z boats like some off side weight. With this in mind, drawing from the sac, leaves the hard tank full when switching sides. Drawing from the tank, you would have to either refill the hard tank, or know when to stop when the sac is done gravity emptying into the tank.

[JohnnieMo]

You be correct. They are only using one channel in stereo for that 10. I'll be changing that regardless. I've always been a believer in over powering a sub, rather than under powering it. You get cleaner power that way.





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[Travism]

Johnny,

You can try my soul craft anytime.

Also does your boat have 4 or 6 in boat speakers ?

[JohnnieMo]

Wait a minute.... you have a Soulcraft???? We should be friends. [emoji14]

I have 6 speakers, 2 Rev 10s and that crappy free air sub.

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[chpthril]

You've actually got one of the best IB subs on the market, buts its poorly utilized and under powered.

[JohnnieMo]

So I pulled apart the back of the boat today to understand how it's all plumbed in.

Basically there are two fill pumps... one on each side. They are beside the vdrive. From there they feed a T junction and split to the bag and the hard tank.



The vents are the same. From the hull side vent there is a T to the bag and to the hard tank again. It's a bit surprising that the hard tank fill hole doubles as the vent also. I didn't expect that.

The drains are hard to see but the drain is from each hard tank then out the side.

I think it will be easy to route the drains using hard lines and the existing hose. Vent lines can be made of anything.

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As a random though, there is oodles of space behind the engine. Anyone ever put a sub box back there?

I don't have a good picture but this gives an idea. I'd say there is about 3 cuft.



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[lee]

As a random though, there is oodles of space behind the engine. Anyone ever put a sub box back there?

I don't have a good picture but this gives an idea. I'd say there is about 3 cuft.
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Too wet back there for me.

[JohnnieMo]

So I've decided to add a cross pump to my winter projects. That is next on my list. The cross vent and drain is just waiting on a couple parts and it will be done.

On the stereo I've decided I will rewire and keep my existing 10FA sub. For those that aren't aware this is a 300W sub that is only getting 155W in the stock setup. It's can easily be rewired to get 600W. Obviously it will mean I have to be careful with it, but I can handle that.

I'm about to cutout the back wall behind the sub. Is it enough to just put in some 4" holes with a hole saw? Or does it need to be wide open?

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[chpthril]

The smaller the hole, the more chance of "port noise". Now, this is mainly related to an enclosures port, but could hold true to opening up that back wall behind the Tige 10FA. If you have space to cut multiple small holes, I would consider fewer larger holes.

[JohnnieMo]

Finally got around to doing more work on the boat. I've been sick not once, not twice, but thrice!!!! I didn't even think it was possible to get so many viruses in a row. I blame my son's swimming lessons.

Firstly I got the sub cavity opened up. To anyone doing this I highly recommend using a vibration tool and not a reciprocating saw. It is much easier and does a nicer cut.





Next I added in my new dual bank battery smart charger. I'm a big believer in these Genius units. They've brought back every battery I've thrown at them. I never seem to replace batteries anymore. I assumed this dual bank version would be equally as impressive. It's also waterproof. I ran the power wire up and out the port locker.







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[JohnnieMo]

I finally got around to installing my magic button today. I'll post the details in the magic button thread.

However after getting it all installed it didn't work. The key would turn on the dash lights but the TT was dead. I got the volt meter out and determined the whole fuse box was dead. I assumed it was a master breaker somewhere but it took me over an hour to find.

I eventually found this little critter up behind the master power cut-off switch. Har'd to see but it's the unit that says BEP on it.



I flicked the reset switch and everything on the boat fired up. Also relocated my subwoofer control knob. I may need it with all these new watts.



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[Greeko]

very nice progress, how is the sub box coming along?