I'm sticking with the 10FA for another season. I opened up its air space and giving it more juice. If I'm not happy with that I will buy an XS12 next winter.
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Well I finally got back in to the garage today and made some progress. Last week was +20C here so it was quite evident that winter is ending here soon. I figured a month and a half since I touched the boat was too long.
Firstly I put the 10FA back in and rewired it for the full 600 watts. After install I ran a system test and did some tuning. First issue I noticed was that Tigé wired the left and right channels backwards. That was an easy RCA swap, but seriously Tigé.......
Next I noticed that I wasn't getting much from the cabin speakers. On inspection is discovered 3 of 4 cabin speakers weren't working. All 3 (the 4th being the one under the helm I just reinstalled) had wires disconnected. Those crappy spade connectors are just crimped on and as a result just fall off if bumped. Seeing as they live in a storage compartment, they all got bumped.
Once that was fixed I tested it all out and was very happy. That stereo sounds excellent. The 10FA still isn't very loud and I maxed it out across the board. When you crank the volume it starts to dance and sounds better than before the mod. We'll see how it sounds on the lake.
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Next I installed my cross over pump. It was pretty easy. I didn't get to the switch yet but it sits in there nice. I used a hole saw to route the hose.
After this I tried to finish my cross drain and vent. As you recall previously I got a bunch of bright ideas like using conduit and cheap flex hose. Well the conduit was just a hassle. I got it in there but I just couldn't find a way to interface it with the stock hose. As I looked at how the junction was right above my battery I decided to abort and go with standard 1.125" hose (I have since acquired some)
As for the cheap 1" hose... I used it for the vent.
It works well except at the through hull junction. Just by its placement it gets squished. I think it is still okay..... it is just flowing air afterall.... but I could change it later if there are issues.
Last thing.... when I installed the back drain hose on the port side I kept hitting the circuit breaker. It was exactly in the way. I moved it elsewhere. It actually had enough wire to move over to the internal panel by the motor...... no idea why it was placed where they put it. Now it is safe and easily accessible.
That's all for today. Not quite done getting the bags in. I ran out of hose clamps. Here is my list. A lot left to do and not a lot of time to do it!
Sent from my PassportLast edited by JohnnieMo; 03-16-2015, 04:12 AM.Comment
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If you need a Soulcraft board we run a surf school in Osoyoos and are a Soulcraft dealer. We have a couple demos you can try out and we are putting in an order this week.Comment
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You list TAPS plate. Assuming your installing a new version. What is it? Can you share some details?
Thanks!Comment
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I ordered one from Ragboy. Www.wake9.com. It is shorter, wider and stronger. Details in another thread.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22850
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What do you think of your "free air" mod to the box? I have basically the same setup as you (Rev 8's instead of 10's) & have bridged 5&6 on my Syn 6. I noticed the sub sounded much better, but decided to pull it out to see how small the enclosure is that Tige puts it in. By my measurements, the box has around .48 ft3 (far short of the 1.3 that Wet Sounds recommends).Originally posted by JohnnieMo View Post
I'm interested if it's worth opening up the back like you did, although I'd probably go the 4" hole saw route as I already have the tools & rotate between lazy & OCD-this month I'm feeling lazy
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I cut the back of mine open last week, and it made a surprisingly huge difference.
I'm getting ready to do the 12" sub upgrade, but thought I'd check out what the FA sub sounded like with the back cut out... Sounds so good, I'm starting to question the effort/cost on swapping out for a 12" sub...Comment
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I dont think its an actual enclosure thats behind the woofer, but rather a byproduct of how the deck cap and helm are designed. Even if it is, that woofer needs to be in a cavity that greater then 2.5 ft3. By the numbers, its not going to perform to its potential in a small enclosure.
I think a small hole like a 4" hole saw, is going to huff. I would shoot for closer to an opening thats close to the surface area of the woofer.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And MoreComment
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I need to get the boat outside before I can fully compare what it was like before and what it's like now. Having it all shoe horned in the garage just doesn't sound right. It definitely moves more than it used to.
It would be hard to open up the cavity without moving the heater core. That's the hard part of the project. Otherwise you could literally do it in an hour. (well for me it would be 4 hours)
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No heater for me. Less than a 1 beer job.
3 screws on the shelf, removed sub woofer and then cut out wall.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426692121.833386.jpg
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That sounds right, the enclosure is just the Starboard (1/2" material). I think I might start with a 4" hole & go from there-always easier to make a hole bigger than go the other way.Originally posted by chpthril View Post
Thanks for the advice.Comment
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Looks like a heck of a winter project, keep the pics and info coming along!Friends don't let friends POWERTURNComment
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JohnnieMo, I have those photos for you, if you could PM me your email address and I can get them sent over.Comment
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Wow, you did a much nicer job than how I was pondering it. Where did you get that hatch? Does the seat still sit flat? How is the structural integrity after?
I tried to see which boat you have. I'm guessing a '14 Z3? The seat design looks radically different than my '13.Comment
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