Revert back to Throttle Cable to get Perfect Pass?? 2006 Boat

[dakota4ce]

Had a brainstorm.....what if I rigged up a favorable leverage scenario with a lever on the back side of the actual throttle lever and installed Perfect Pass or other cruise control servo right up there at the helm? And just moved the whole darned lever itself with the perfect pass servo?

Probably impossible, but I was proud of myself for thinking creatively.

[ericinmich]

Coming from my experience in automotive controls, you are working in an area where things could go wrong quickly. In an auto, there is SW looking for things not right, correlation of sensors looking for thing to be correct preventing unattended acceleration, etc. I would sure hate to cobble up a system and have a bracket/bolt/wire slip or move and the engine decide to rev up when it shouldn't (ie. picking up a person in the water, etc). Since there is no "wheel speed" in a boat there is no SW overseeing a good vs. bad commanded speed vs. vehicle movement. The paddle wheel is not accurate enough nor has redundancy, etc.

I'm sure what you are trying to do can be done, just be careful.

[dakota4ce]

If I did do anything, it would be in a factory manner consistent with how other boats have it set up. I appreciate the thoughts. I would not cobble anything as vital as throttle control--it would be a tested setup. Really no different than any other Perfect Pass setup on a host of other boats.

Coming from my experience in automotive controls, you are working in an area where things could go wrong quickly. In an auto, there is SW looking for things not right, correlation of sensors looking for thing to be correct preventing unattended acceleration, etc. I would sure hate to cobble up a system and have a bracket/bolt/wire slip or move and the engine decide to rev up when it shouldn't (ie. picking up a person in the water, etc). Since there is no "wheel speed" in a boat there is no SW overseeing a good vs. bad commanded speed vs. vehicle movement. The paddle wheel is not accurate enough nor has redundancy, etc.

I'm sure what you are trying to do can be done, just be careful.

[dakota4ce]

Just discovered that my triducer may be shot....making this upgrade more tempting! That's $300 that could go toward a better life.....

[dakota4ce]

What about using this Marine Power part number:
http://marineenginedepot.com/MP/Mari...-with-Bracket/


I think its used when a newer motor is dropped in an older boat like cpropes2005

Might be worth a call to Marine Power and see if you could just drop that part in then get a mechanical throttle to replicate his setup with Perfect Pass.

EDIT: Looks like the link is for MEFI5! It might not work with your motor if its MEFI4.

I think this setup looks like the correct one, despite what it says in the description. You have located it! Thank you!

[dakota4ce]

Guys, this might sound crazy, but I think I am going to do this. I am simply going to relocate the potentiometer (PPS) from its home attached to my throttle lever to the engine compartment attached to a bracket. Dom says it is the same PPS and will work the same. I am then going to adapt a universal (like a Morse MV-3) cable throttle lever and run a physical cable back to the bracket. To that apparatus I will hook Perfect Pass, Hydrophase, or whatever I end up with for a cruise.

My current paddlewheel sensor is shot anyway, so I am going to use that $300 toward this potentially better setup. Looks like PPS and bracket is about $200. New control for cables is about $250. I would imagine a cable will be $50-$100. Some light carpentry and some light wiring, and I hope to hell it works. If not, I will save all of the original stuff, as well as leave the factory items intact in case I need to reverse course.

Also will leave the SpeedSet items in place. Actually, I would think SpeedSet would also work just fine with this setup, so I have a backup cruise in case PP takes a PooPoo. That is kind of interesting! I would have to replace my paddlewheel sensor to get it working, though.

[dom w. forte]

Guys, this might sound crazy, but I think I am going to do this. I am simply going to relocate the potentiometer (PPS) from its home attached to my throttle lever to the engine compartment attached to a bracket. Dom says it is the same PPS and will work the same. I am then going to adapt a universal (like a Morse MV-3) cable throttle lever and run a physical cable back to the bracket. To that apparatus I will hook Perfect Pass, Hydrophase, or whatever I end up with for a cruise.

My current paddlewheel sensor is shot anyway, so I am going to use that $300 toward this potentially better setup. Looks like PPS and bracket is about $200. New control for cables is about $250. I would imagine a cable will be $50-$100. Some light carpentry and some light wiring, and I hope to hell it works. If not, I will save all of the original stuff, as well as leave the factory items intact in case I need to reverse course.

Also will leave the SpeedSet items in place. Actually, I would think SpeedSet would also work just fine with this setup, so I have a backup cruise in case PP takes a PooPoo. That is kind of interesting! I would have to replace my paddlewheel sensor to get it working, though.

There isnt any place to hook up a cable to your exsisting shifter , you have to change to a 2005 or older shifter.

[anthony.maddick]

Hey Guys I'm in Aus and i have a 2006 marine power engine with a Generic Cruise control system working. My accuset failed and found it nearly impossible to get my hands on a control panel (as thats what I'm led to believe is faulty) so i opted to install a aftermarket cruise from a Car. Its not as pretty or anything but works like a charm..
Ill explain how it all works..
The throttle works on 0-5 volts and so this cruise system wires inline with the wires from the hand throttle under the dash.. then its picks up the Speed signal which on my boat was faulty so i am using the nautic marine (i think) GPS unit.
so when the cruise is set i pull the hand throttle back but not into neutral. then i was faced with the issue of what if someone pulled it into neural so i wired up a variable voltage switch( again when it picks up the hand throttle voltage ) to turn the cruise off (essential pressing the brake l)
a few tuning programs and was all done..
it was a local Aus company who supplied the cruise and walked me through tuning over the phone.
There might be a company in the US that does the same thing .. Drive by Wire has been around for ever and a day and all works the same way. i don't know why someone hasn't made a kit or even better why hasn't Perfect pass make a Kit they are missing a massive market!!! maybe i could show them and they could make me a pretty interface.
Any questions yell out of post here