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    Winterize even if boat is stored in a heated building?

    Have boat stored in a heated building...50 degrees....what is necessary to get it ready for the long winters nap??

    #2
    Originally posted by 2thdoc01 View Post
    Have boat stored in a heated building...50 degrees....what is necessary to get it ready for the long winters nap??
    I would would be cautious about that. What if there is a power outage or heat malfunction. Does there insurance cover damage done to your boat? I would still winterize even though I know that wasn't your question.

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      #3
      Your taking a bit of a chance but I know plenty of people who do this. They do make sure to atleast drain the block, manifold risers, heater, etc. Considering how easy of a job it is to winterize, I would just do it myself so I know for sure I won't have an issue in spring.

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        #4
        It's a large warehouse storage and landscape company , which I know the owner. So if I drain the water would I need to do anything else? I usually have the dealer do it, but I don't want to pay 600 and don't have the time to drive the boat there and then go get it.

        What else would be needed? Antifreeze anywhere? I wouldn't have access to a hose for a fake a lake setup unless I pull it from storage.

        Thanks for the help!

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          #5
          Originally posted by jimidemo View Post
          I would would be cautious about that. What if there is a power outage or heat malfunction. Does there insurance cover damage done to your boat? I would still winterize even though I know that wasn't your question.
          Do you worry about this happening in your house? Do you plan your life accordingly? The chances of this happening are slim to non. We will occasionally lose power in the north in the winter, but its very rarely and short lived. Because if its not the least of people worries are the boat in the heated shop.

          I know plenty of guys who do this. Just clean up the boat well. Dry everything out well. Prop open compartments. Charge the batteries and then disconnect. You can drain the block as retox1 said its quick and easy. Also check on the boat regularly.

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            #6
            If you trust the facility to stay above freezing, dont overlook the other off season maintenance: service trailer, change boat fluids and filters, treat fuel, lube rudder, clean and dry boat, etc. As a little extra piece of mind, it really doesnt take that long to drain the water form the drive train.
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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              #7
              Originally posted by chpthril View Post
              If you trust the facility to stay above freezing, dont overlook the other off season maintenance: service trailer, change boat fluids and filters, treat fuel, lube rudder, clean and dry boat, etc. As a little extra piece of mind, it really doesnt take that long to drain the water form the drive train.
              Agreed... and by the time you've done all of these things, you might as well do the job properly anyway. Besides, one of the reasons to winterize is because it forces you to look things over carefully, all the little details that you don't generally check or think about during the busy season. Belt in good shape? Impeller starting to wear? Signs of leaking on the engine or hull? Winterizing might reveal something that needs attention before it becomes a big problem in the middle of the summer.

              Your boat is a huge investment. A couple extra hours once a year to take proper care of it seems like good insurance. At least to me.

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                #8
                I store mine in a heated shop as well. Before that I used to flush with antifreeze and then drain just to be certain nothing would happen. Now I still drain the block, manifolds, pull the impeller, blow out the ballast lines and pumps, and pull everything out and open up compartments so it doesn't get stale. All that in under an hour is worth it to me just in case the freak power outage happens. Alot less work to never have issues than to save a few minutes and deal with a cracked block.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by viking View Post
                  I store mine in a heated shop as well. Before that I used to flush with antifreeze and then drain just to be certain nothing would happen. Now I still drain the block, manifolds, pull the impeller, blow out the ballast lines and pumps, and pull everything out and open up compartments so it doesn't get stale. All that in under an hour is worth it to me just in case the freak power outage happens. Alot less work to never have issues than to save a few minutes and deal with a cracked block.
                  Thanks Viking! Can you point me to the references on how you do the ballasts bags/tanks?

                  I also will have to do the heater. I want to make sure im set when I go to the storage so i can get it done efficiently.

                  Kurt

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                    #10
                    Even though my boat is in a heated garage at my house,
                    I treat mine as though its spending the winter outdoors. heated or not, I want my heads fogged, water drained, and setup ready to go next season. for the small amount of time and money, it just makes the most sense.
                    2011 Tigé RZ4
                    www.re-viveupholstery.com

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                      #11
                      Chpthril - you mention lubing the rudder.... that's the only item you mentioned not currently on my 'to do' list. Can you point me in the right direction? Kind of lube, how to apply, etc?

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                        #12
                        Marine grease and there should be a zerk fitting on the rudder housing.
                        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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