Need help. Boat charging issue

[Ochrod]

I just turn on the button below the touch display. I just started engine with each fuse below isolator separately. The primary side did not charge, when hooked to secondary the crank volts went to 13.2. Cleaning the terminals now and will see if that fixes it. I read it on the touch display on the gauges page.

[Ochrod]

On one of the 80 amp fuses the little black lever is protruding out appx .100. The other one is recessed about the same amount. The one that is sticking out is the one I seem to be having trouble with. I"ll be putting the meter across it next time I hook up and start. I would expect to see voltage across the terminals of the fuse.

[Ochrod]

Latest update: I hooked both batteries back up and found that I am still only charging my house battery. I swapped the 80 amp fuses below the isolator and the problem stayed on same side(Primary not charging). House battery showed 13.5 or so charging. Primary stayed at 12.33 using either fuse. I'm pretty sure my isolator failed on the primary side. Is there anything else I can check to verify before getting one?

On another note I talked with Harvey and the House volts and crank volts is software for 2013 and newer. I went back to 2012 and 1/2 software. Got rid of house volts but still have charging problem.

[chpthril]

Yes, you can easily test the isolator. With the meter's ground lead on battery ground, you should read battery voltage on both terminals of the breakers and on the outer 2 posts of the isolator. With the engine running, you should read alternator voltage on the center post, both outer posts and on both posts of each breaker.

[Ochrod]

isolator and fuses all checked good. Thanks chptrhil, I was convinced I had a bad isolator and had started calling around. I found the primary isolator wire connected to the battery switch and then down to the battery. I had 14v at the battery switch but only 12.3 coming out of switch to battery. I removed the isolator wire and connected straight to battery the same way the the house battery is. Now both are running at 13.3 or so when engine is running.

Doing this I noticed that the house battery has the isolator power on it, stereo power, and power going to the fuse that goes to the dash. I had no house battery power to the switch. I then hooked up house battery power to the switch on one post, post next to it I connected the cable that goes to fuse to dash. Now I need to have it in combined to get the touch to power up.

I am trying to find out how to wire up the battery switch now. The primary seems good, just need to get the house battery and the right connection for the dash power and I think I am good to go.

Anybody know how to wire the battery switch. I'm checking vendor site as well.

[chpthril]

Sounds like the batteries are wired to the same side of the switch, not opposing sides. Thats the only way I can think of, for the way its not working.

POST
1a = main starter cable
1b = cranking battery's B+
2a = helm, stereo and any other loads
2b = house battery's B+

The 2 outboard cables from the isolator can connect direct to the battery B+ posts, 1a and 2a or 1b and 2b. It really wont matter much, because when the switch is ON and the engine is running, the batteries will receive a charge, regardless. I would base my decision on where they will reach the easiest and which posts have the least amount of cables already attached.

[Ochrod]

I just ordered an new battery switch. I plan on taking it apart and cleaning but I think I have an open on the #2 side of switch. The only way I get it to work is to select both and then I think it is seeing power from the engine battery. When I select just norm I get voltage to the battery switch but nothing on the other side. Too hot to crawl around boat now for awhile.

If I don't get it fixed in time, I may have to just run them combined for trip to Lake of the Ozarks. Switch is due Wed though so hope it fixes it.

[Ochrod]

And hopefully last question, does it matter which battery I hook the bilge pump to?

[JLG]

And hopefully last question, does it matter which battery I hook the bilge pump to?

Not sure that it matters but mine is hooked up to the main battery, and I would think that is where you would want it in order to keep the stereo equipment from getting a buzz from it if it were to run while stereo is on as the stereo is normally ran off the 2nd battery.

If all else I will have plenty of space for you at LOTO on my boat.

[chpthril]

I just ordered an new battery switch. I plan on taking it apart and cleaning but I think I have an open on the #2 side of switch. The only way I get it to work is to select both and then I think it is seeing power from the engine battery. When I select just norm I get voltage to the battery switch but nothing on the other side. Too hot to crawl around boat now for awhile.

If I don't get it fixed in time, I may have to just run them combined for trip to Lake of the Ozarks. Switch is due Wed though so hope it fixes it.

Put the meter on OHMs and test the switch with the cables disconnected. That and testing it on the volts setting and theres little room for speculation.

[Ochrod]

I pulled the battery switch out and checked resistance on it out of the boat. I have an open between the #2 posts. I have good reading from 1a to 1b and from 1a to 2b when combined. Nothing from 2a to either 2b or 1b. Glad I ordered the switch.

Anyway, just wanted to thank everyone for the help. Without this site it would have taken a lot longer to find it and probably cost a lot more money. And that goes for Harvey at Tige as well.

[talltigeguy]

And hopefully last question, does it matter which battery I hook the bilge pump to?

Put it on the battery that is least likely to die. Nothing worse than to have a boat full of water, the bilge pump connected to a dead battery with a perfectly good battery nearby. I think the short answer is to put it on the starting battery, that is where your alternator puts the power first. Your stereo can kill the other battery, and you still have bilge functioning.

[Ochrod]

Thats where I put it and for same reason. Guess I'll leave it on starting battery. Thanks

[chpthril]

I pulled the battery switch out and checked resistance on it out of the boat. I have an open between the #2 posts. I have good reading from 1a to 1b and from 1a to 2b when combined. Nothing from 2a to either 2b or 1b. Glad I ordered the switch.

Anyway, just wanted to thank everyone for the help. Without this site it would have taken a lot longer to find it and probably cost a lot more money. And that goes for Harvey at Tige as well.

Looks like you nailed it, bad switch.