How far should TAPS move?

[Anim8or]

I have a used 1999 2100V LTD and I had a question about TAPS. How far should the TAPS plate travel, in total? The gauge goes from 1 to 7 but I honestly haven't noticed a huge difference between the two settings and just wanted to make sure there's nothing mechanically wrong. It seems like the total travel distance is maybe 3 inches or so. I'm assuming you pretty much need glass water to notice a large difference in the wake shape, right?

Here's some pictures. The first picture is a photoshopped comparison picture, the setting is written on the pic in green. The 2nd and 3rd pics are the plate at the extreme settings (1 and 7)

Comparison.jpgSetting1.jpgSetting7.jpg

[Ruger761]

Based off your pics its working as it should. Basically at 1 it sits just below the hull and pushes the bow down (decrease wake). At 7 it doesnt tough the water that much allowing the bow to rise up ( and increase wake). All the hulls react a little diffrent all depends on how its weighted.

[Anim8or]

Do the newer boats have a larger amount of TAPS movement, then? I saw this thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...late-alignment

and used his pictures to make a similar comparison pic. His plate looks like it travels twice as far at least, though the pistons are mounted differently.

Comparison_DifferentBoat.jpg

[Ruger761]

Yes they do. But like you mention its based off where the ram is mounted. Are you wanting more movement down or up on your hull? Down, most add a spacer between the pate and the ram, which pushes the bow down more. Up you would have to move the ram mounting on the hull.

[Anim8or]

What does extra movement down or up gain you? Would one way or the other allow more ability to shape the wake (make it more ramp-like or steeper)? And, is it pretty common to modify these older TAPS installations?

[ski_antique]

Interesting comments. On my new(to me) 20v with my ballast setup, I find myself in the down position- only adjusting taps between 1 and 2.5. I was thinking of adding a spacer so I can get on plane a little faster when heavily weighted.

[Ruger761]

down is about the only posisiton that would gain you anyting. at the most up position it shouldnt really be touching the water very much. Adding the spacer would allow you to drop the bow down a little more without adding ballast to the bow.

[ski_antique]

I searched around and there isn't a DIY out there, and the spacer seems super easy, so here is a DIY for you guys wanting to add more down position to your tiges:


1. Get a scrap piece of plastic, teflon, whatever. I used lexan 'cause I'm high speed. I'm going with 1/2" thickness for my first try.

2. Spend 3 bucks on some longer ss phillips bolts. I used 1/4" x 1.5" from Lowes.

3. Remove the taps with 7/16 socket and phillips screw driver

[ski_antique]

4. Take the sheet and trace around the foot of the TAPS.

IMG_1693.jpg

[ski_antique]

5. Drill yer holes.

IMG_1695.jpg

[ski_antique]

6. Get the jigsaw with a wood blade and trace the lines. Smooth out the edges on a grinding wheel or dremel.

IMG_1697.jpgIMG_1698.jpg

[ski_antique]

7. Install and drink a beer. I reused the nylocs.

IMG_1699.jpgIMG_1700.jpg


If it doesn't thunderstorm, I'll post how it all works out after the weekend. Have a great weekend!

[ski_antique]

So adding the 1/2" to the taps moved my taps numbers up a little on my wake and surf settings, and also helped me clean up the surf wake a little more, especially when heavily weighted when I wanted a skim wave. When buzzing around on the lake unweighted to the spots it was a much smoother ride at 0, and eliminated a lot of bouncing. I never used the top end of the wakeboard side of the taps gauge, so all in all, this was a good mod for my 20v.

[Ruger761]

Good to hear it worked for you. Thanks for posting the pics and the report on how well it worked.

[JGR]

Great info. Thanks much