Group Buy on Deckadence Flooring...

[Billua]

Not if you hurry. This thread has all the contact data. Drop Paul Riches an email, and report back here how it goes!

Will do, thanks!!

[Stingreye]

Carpet out. I was pleasantly surprised that it had the bilge paint on the fiberglass (I am assuming thats what it is, I have no idea what they do to it but it looks like the bilge but not like gel coat).

The pics are before I started scraping the carpet adhesive out. I was wishing I bought some of that stuff Duncan posted about to remove it. Basically, I just scraped what I could.

Right now I am happy with it without leveling out the floor. The brackets from the removable floor are noticeable as is the change in elevation to the bow, but I don't think its much more noticeable than factory carpet.

So the plan for now and the foreseeable future is to run with the mat over the floor as is.

I am curious if I will have to do anything with the removable floor now. I am curious if it will vibrate and make noise or if the mat will take care of that.

So far really happy! Can't wait to use it. We didn't get out last weekend but will be spending a week on the water next week.

One thing to be aware of for those templating. After you remove your carpet, it appears that the dimensions where the mat fits are very slightly bigger. My mat still fits but before it was snug against the wall and compressed and now it does not. I will know more after I put my rear seat back in because I had too much material there. If it fits perfectly there, I will know it adds maybe 1/8" or so to the overall footprint.

As you can see from the pics, I still need to repair some screw holes from the carpet trim.

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[IDBoating]

My subfloor under the carpet is "smooth" like the bilge area (in other words, not fuzzy with loose strands of fiberglass) but definitely not even. I removed the carpet under the driver's seat because once wet it would never dry and started to stink, and the area under there is pretty bumpy. Granted they probably don't worry about bumps there as much as they might on the main floor area (I hope that, at least) but it looks like I may be sanding a bit to make things feel right.

One cool thing about these removable mats is that they come right back out if some bump on the subfloor bothers me later. Rework should be pretty straightforward.

My removable floor/door is aluminum and rests in some angle brackets. Good point - removing the carpet might indeed let it rattle. I wonder if I can leave the carpet on the edges of the door while removing and making flush the top surface? That would mean the door's interface to the floor wouldn't change, but the top surface would still present a smooth integrated surface to the mat. I'll report what I find, if and when my mat ever arrives....

[Stingreye]

Your idea on leaving some carpet on the floor might be a good idea because the elevation is lowered by the thickness of the carpeting vs the bracket.

[117AJ]

Received the Deckadence Flooring for my 2011 Tige R20. I will take better pictures when I take the boat out next time but it looks really nice and it fit perfectly with the provided template.

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Also does anyone know how to get photos from an iphone to upload with the correct orientation? This forum always flips my photos into the strangest orientations.

[IDBoating]

Use Photoshop. Or, lacking that, open the file with Windows Photo Viewer (just click on the filename and it's the default app) and use the rotate CW or CCW arrows at the bottom. The file is rotated and saved over the original on disk.

[117AJ]

Use Photoshop. Or, lacking that, open the file with Windows Photo Viewer (just click on the filename and it's the default app) and use the rotate CW or CCW arrows at the bottom. The file is rotated and saved over the original on disk.

Thanks. I don't have photoshop but I will try with iPhoto. I do, basically, what you are describing with the photo viewer on the Mac but it still seems to rotate 90 degrees counter clockwise.

[Stingreye]

Just finished up our week at Tahoe. It was a great upgrade from carpet. Couple things to note for others. The rear where I said my template was too big when I removed the carpet ended up being a perfect fit. I am very happy with how it fits everywhere now. It does not slide at all even when listed.

The only downside, you could hear some more noise from the engine area. Very small difference. I doubt I will bother leveling my floor. You can feel the brackets but it really is a non issue.

The advice earlier in this thread about temperature and color, I WOULD NOT GET ANY DARKER THAN LUNA SILVER for the majority of the mat if you are in warm climates. When its in direct sunlight and not moving, it can get hot. The dark logo on mine got very hot. It does seem to cool off if you are using the boat getting any air flow through the mat. Lifting up the mat, it does seem like it traps some water under but that it evaporated pretty quickly. I am not sure how it will dry out in the off season.

I did use my ballast hose to pour water on the floor.... just for fun. Water drained VERY quickly though it to the bilge.

[IDBoating]

Glad to hear you like it!

Just got an email saying the next rev of my proofs should arrive today. Hopefully I'll see product soon after.

[Stingreye]

Awesome WA, can't wait to hear how it works in your compartments.

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[bwstx]

Is anyone putting it in the lockers under the seats? Sounds like WA might be. I have the custom sacs, but also put gear in the them as well so can't keep the carpet dry.

[IDBoating]

I am putting it in my two midship storage lockers. Everywhere else is full of fat sacs. The underseat storage areas still have carpet but never get wet. The aft lockers were stripped to the bare fiberglass for ballast installation so no carpet there . One other place I'm putting it is under the driver's seat - that is the worst and smelliest carpet ever, it never dries and WHOA does it stink when wet .

Update: After calling directly to the factory on Thursday and being assured I'd have my updated proofs by end of business that day, they finally showed up the next day (Friday). They look good, I've told them so and asked for a final price. The waiting continues....

[billwil]

Okay...I'm so sick of the worn out carpet in my 2003 24V. I'm ready to pull the trigger (although I still don't know how much it will be). I guess I just need to call them and discuss. That said, WABoating, it seems like this is taking forever for you. If I call tomorrow, how long before I could expect to have the covering in hand to install? If it's going to be months...I'm not sure I can wait that long. We have somewhat of a year round season here (my boys are used to wetsuits and cold water), so just accepting "any time over the winter" doesn't work very well for us. We can't stand the carpet anymore. Thanks for the help...it sure seems like this stuff is the way to go...I hope it works out.

[IDBoating]

I'd still give them a call. Stingreye got his faster than me. I'm so busy right now that I didn't exactly pressure them (though you shouldn't have to), and once I did call them on the phone things started happening. So apparently the squeaky wheel gets the grease, I just needed to squeak more.

As for price, read this whole thread. The estimate for a typical Tige floor with no logo nor border (which is what I'm doing) was ~$500 after the 15% discount for the group buy. That's almost half off retail. I'm spending a bit more to get flooring for my two main equipment lockers but you should be able to keep it around half a kilobuck if you want.

Report back on what you learn when you call!

[Stingreye]

The longest part of the waiting process is the template. I think it was only a week to build it after the template is confirmed. 2003 should match my template I sent for 2004 24v. Call and get the measurements on my final template and you can verify it. Might be much quicker if there are no changes to the template. Pricing sounds right from WA. Feel like it was 500 plus I added a border and logo. I forget what freight was but I feel like my total out the door was right at 700.

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