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    #1

    Building an enclosure soon.

    Went and bought the wood for my subwoofer enclosure today. It will be for the 10" factory kicker. I was able to find 13ply birch and will be working on this here in a week or 2. Couple questions before I start. The thread below is the one i'm going to try and match. The only issue i'm seeing is that the opening through the front flip up back rest is possibly smaller than the rz2 that this other one was was built for. I measured and it looks as if i'll have to be around 14"w x 14.75"h. Depth looks to be fine though. Is it ok to say that if its going to be slightly smaller on the width and height that I could just add some depth to it? I've been reading up and I just keep getting more confused. Any help would be great! Also, would it be easier to just leave the front panel off with the hole for the sub and just butt it up to the carpeted area to same time cutting a hole? Just glue the heck out of it and screw it together? Also, would I need to buy a speaker wire terminal or how do you run the speaker wire out without drilling a hole or running it through the port? Newbie here on this topic!


    http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ight=enclosure
    Tags: None
    #2
    You can definitely make adjustments as necessary. Here's a website you can use for figuring out the dimensions:
    http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

    Looks like you would need 14x14.75x19x22.5 to get the same volume as my old box.
    Last edited by Timmy!; 03-12-2014, 08:51 PM.

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      #3
      What's your new enclosure. Why did you change it up. Just curious. .
      Thanks! !

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        #4
        The sub only cares about air volume and not the box shape. (so long as the sub has clearance on depth). So just make it fit!

        As for wiring, I usually drill a hole, put a knot in the wire, then silicone the hole. That way the knot prevents it from being tugged out. I know this sounds kind of welfare but I've never found one of those plastic wire connectors that didn't leak. Now if you have a port I don't seem why the wire couldn't come out there. It may vibrate a bit at high volume but I even doubt that.

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          #5
          Originally posted by KyleRass41 View Post
          What's your new enclosure. Why did you change it up. Just curious. .
          Thanks! !
          I upgraded to a Kicker 12 L7:
          http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...or-this-season

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            #6
            I looked at the other thread and got confused. What is the round hole he cut in the boat?

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by JohnnieMo View Post
              I looked at the other thread and got confused. What is the round hole he cut in the boat?
              I used the factory hole for the sub and then peeled the carpet off of the helm on the backside, used silicone to seal it and then used longer screws in the sub to secure the box to the helm wall. Those are both my threads/installs.

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                #8
                Ahhh I see. It just didn't look big enough to fit the sub.

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                  #9
                  http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...oofer-amp-help

                  Here is the link for a build I just did a month or so ago. Look at the last page of pictures for ideas. I know you said you were wanting to keep the 10" sub but if possible I would go to a 12" for a lot more sound. If you really want to push it put 2 in like I did. I bought prebuilt boxes on this build. I have built boxes in the past but it is time consuming. And besides my boxes don't compete with Timmy's professional looking boxes!! As timmy said 1- 12" sub is plenty of sound as these kicker l7 series are incredible at taking abuse and putting out a solid quality sounding bass. If I were to buy equipment again I would've went with 4- 2ohm subs and done 2- 1500watt amps instead of using a single 2500 watt amp as this amp requires a crazy amount of power and puts a large load on my batteries. Overall I'm very pleased with 4 subs, besides they don't have noise ordinances at our lake til 10pm!!

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                    #10
                    13Wx14Hx14D using .75" ply will net you 1.12 ft3. Rock it baby! But, I would mock that up out of card board 1st, just to make sure that the back outside corner does not hit the floor or gunwale. The bow narrows and that 15" D could be a hiccup because the sub is located so low on the wall.

                    I would a 6 sided enclosure, but make the woofer hole larger then the necessary cutout. reason being is that the bulkhead wall is so thick, adding an additional .75" of wood, will really put the woofer in a tunnel. With some good glue and a few flat head screws, the box will be secure and air tight. Those screw heads will be concealed in the carpet. Oh, you will want to cut out the carpet on the back side where the box will mount.

                    Get a terminal cap that is secured to the box using screws. To prevent a terminal cap from leaking, glue and screw it in the box. Then tape it off and then epoxy the box. It wont leak or come out
                    Last edited by chpthril; 03-12-2014, 11:49 PM.
                    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                      #11
                      Now when you say 13x14x14, are you talking a sealed box I was thinking of going the ported route. With the long port across the back

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                        #12
                        Yes, sealed. So your plan is to have the port exhaust out the back as into the enclosed locker? You're going to need to be in the 2.0 ft3 gross range for a ported enclosure.
                        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                          #13
                          Yeah I was trying to match what timmy did. Should I lift it up off the floor so I could go deeper with the box? To get to 20" or so

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Tim's ported enclosure is exhausting out baffle board side, which is the front of the enclosure. So if you are looking to reproduce that, then you are on the right path.

                            The box needs to be off the sole of the boat. This allows any moisture in there to dry. No mater how good the box is built and sealed, if its wood, it will absorb moisture if its setting directly on the carpeted floor.

                            20D would get you in the 2.0 ft3 neighborhood. Once you subtract the wall thickness and port structure, you will be close to the recommended min ported volume
                            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                            Comment

                              #15
                              I would actually be matching his old one though, which would be in the back of the enclosure, inside of the storage compartment. It sounds like he had good luck with this before he went to the newer one.

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