RZR Surf Flap Mounting

[Stingreye]

Sweet! Can't wait to see your results!

[Z3CO23]

I bought all the supplies for my flap this last weekend. I'm going to use a 1/2 inch rod instead of the 3/8 and my brackets do have the holes in them already. The boat is still wrapped up for a couple weeks and I kept the platform on when I wrapped it so cannot install yet. The temperature low's here in Denver at night are still alittle sketchy but were close to surfin weather!!!!

[whiteflash watersports]

I will post pics of it installed, the wave before and after. We are going tomorrow. Suppsed to be around 86 here in Jacksonville tomorrow. So sweet. My brother sent me a pic of a snow storm in Denver this am - that sucks!!!

[Z3CO23]

Looking forward to the tests. Definitely snowed all night, it melted by noon. Good ole Denver.

[whiteflash watersports]

Here are some install pics. Will be riding this afternoon.

photo_1.JPGphoto_2.JPGphoto_3.JPGphoto_4.JPG

[duffymahoney]

That all thread is gonna be bending! Remember the more stiff it is vertically the better. On your boat (if it was mine) I would have a square piece of aluminum welded between your brackets at that same spot. Then bolt the flap directly onto it. This way the wave will be pushing on the flap and the flap is pushing back, not just being heavy on the wave. Does that make sense? The stiffness of the horse stall mat is the key. It pushes on that wave perfectly. I tried weighting the mats with limited success, then I tried using something as a bumper between the mat and the swim platform, which did work, then I was cutting mats for my gym and had the idea for the horse stall mats, and the rest is history

[duffymahoney]

Gosh my teak looks terrible!

[Z3CO23]

So, went to the store and decided to go with a 1/2" galvanized steel rod. I secured it on both ends with galvanized caps. I had the road cut 1 1/4 inches bigger than the measurements of the outside edge of my brackets. I probably could have cut it a little bit shorter but it will work. A 1 inch overlap from the bar to the edge of the platform in the middle is about 18". I measured from my platform down to my taps plate and 18" puts me and inch below my taps plate. Ill play with the length when I get it attached. I am going to secure the ubolts to the mat so there is no play in them and let the rod rotate as the water forces the mat up. Steel rod is very sturdy. Hopefully I get the install done tonight before my wife catches me working in the living room Comments and suggestions always welcome of course. I'll shoot some video with the go pro when I can put the boat in the water.

[Duncan]

Here are some install pics. Will be riding this afternoon.

[ATTACH]36792[/ATTACH]

That all thread is gonna be bending! Remember the more stiff it is vertically the better. On your boat (if it was mine) I would have a square piece of aluminum welded between your brackets at that same spot. Then bolt the flap directly onto it. This way the wave will be pushing on the flap and the flap is pushing back, not just being heavy on the wave. Does that make sense? The stiffness of the horse stall mat is the key. It pushes on that wave perfectly. I tried weighting the mats with limited success, then I tried using something as a bumper between the mat and the swim platform, which did work, then I was cutting mats for my gym and had the idea for the horse stall mats, and the rest is history

Whiteflash, I would seriously consider cutting down those U-bolts to be flush with the nut. The mat will float up and when people are hanging around the back of the boat swimming, someone will inevitably get gouged. I used a vise and hacksaw and filed the burs off. Yes, it was the biggest pain in the tail of the entire install. But worth it for safety.

Duffy, I agree that downward force on the mat might help, but I think that most of the benefit comes with just letting the weight of the mat lay flat. That approach also decreases the stress or torsion on the components involved. Note that Whiteflash's mat, like mine, appears to extend several inches past the back edge of the platform.

[Duncan]

So, went to the store and decided to go with a 1/2" galvanized steel rod. I secured it on both ends with galvanized caps. I had the road cut 1 1/4 inches bigger than the measurements of the outside edge of my brackets. I probably could have cut it a little bit shorter but it will work. A 1 inch overlap from the bar to the edge of the platform in the middle is about 18". I measured from my platform down to my taps plate and 18" puts me and inch below my taps plate. Ill play with the length when I get it attached. I am going to secure the ubolts to the mat so there is no play in them and let the rod rotate as the water forces the mat up. Steel rod is very sturdy. Hopefully I get the install done tonight before my wife catches me working in the living room Comments and suggestions always welcome of course. I'll shoot some video with the go pro when I can put the boat in the water.

With that thick rod, you probably do not need bolts on the inner and outer surface of the bracket.

You might buy several rubber washers and layer them thick between the cap and the bracket to eliminate some rattling and grinding.

[Z3CO23]

With that thick rod, you probably do not need bolts on the inner and outer surface of the bracket.

You might buy several rubber washers and layer them thick between the cap and the bracket to eliminate some rattling and grinding.

Good suggestion for sure. I'm going to get some. I also just found a plastic grommet online that will fit the bracket hole perfectly.

[duffymahoney]

Trust me and just do it stiff, it will be much better, I have tried both. The mat is still bendable by hand even when stiff.

[Dandy]

Trust me and just do it stiff, it will be much better, I have tried both.

Taken out of context, this is funny!! I just couldn't resist

[Duncan]

Trust me and just do it stiff, it will be much better, I have tried both. The mat is still bendable by hand even when stiff.

I am not arguing that a stiff down facing mat would not be better ... but it would be more involved and more expensive. The round bar is so cheap and so easy that it is a good place to start. I admit I do not know how much better a downward mat would be. But I saw a lot of improvement with the round bar floppy mat set up. And it might be enough (for me).

So would you weld a square bar across the back and (a) drill through the square bar so you could then bolt on the mat on the vertical face so it points down or (b) use a u-bolt to secure to the square bar tightening down enough that the mat will not slip from the vertical face to the horizontal face?

With the non-welded round bar set-up, I wonder if you could simply mount the mat in the other direction (i.e., over the top of the bar with excess mat material extending to the rear lip. The mat would hang down angled to the transom and when under way, would bend into a tight U. I doubt the material would not split though.

[duffymahoney]

Option two might work, i just drilled holes in the mat and the bar. Then put bolts through, simple cheap and effective.