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    RZR Surf Flap Mounting

    Fellas,

    I'm gonna embark on this surf flap project. The CVX retrofit for my rig is over $5000 so surf flap it is. I need the flap to clean up my goofy wake for surfing. My initial idea is to mount the flap using the 3/8 inch rod, u bolts and the existing holes in the 2011 brackets just like it has been documented on the forums by others. The only hang up I have is I DO NOT have an FAE on my boat, I cannot use the FAE rod as an additional brace. My only concern is that the heavy horse stall mat is going to put too much pressure on the swim platform and created stress issues where the swim deck attaches to the transom. Any ideas on additional bracing besides using the bracket holes? Any pictures you guys have would be awesome. Am I over thinking the amount of weight and stress on the swim deck?

    #2
    The horse stall mat isn't that heavy. Think about how much it has to take. I have 300 pounds of people on mine all the time. I wouldn't worry.
    Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

    Comment


      #3
      You are probably referencing this thread re rod/ubolt install.

      In my install, the FAE rod played absolutely no structural support role. The back end of the mat did drape over it but the majority hung off the front. The support rod never deformed and I have had no issues with a solid 100 hr season on it. (no issues with support ... my mat tore in the cut corner and I plan on redoing the mat design early season, but this had nothing to do with support).

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        #4
        Sweet! Thanks for the comments guys. The only difference on my install is the mat will hang straight down. When I install the u-bolts should I leave room in he connection so that the u-bolts will rotate around the rod to allow the horse stall mat to rotate toward the swim platform when under water pressure or should I make it more rigid? I would think I need to allow it to rotate upwards somewhat, correct?

        Comment


          #5
          X3 on wave flap. Duncan's pulling the trigger and success put me over the edge on doing the mod. I am happy how it works on my boat (24V) and with the platform trimmed smaller (not to touch the wave), I get a clean wave even at TAPS 8 (all the way up).

          Mine is attached to the platform with no additional support (so transom brackets fully support the platform).

          Good luck!!
          Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter

          Comment


            #6
            Awesome! My first wave flap was crap! The use of horse stall mats came to me while cutting 100's for my crossfit gym. It's built in stiffness is key.
            Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

            Comment


              #7
              rzr23co before you bought that boat I spent a good amount of time on it. Before the subs were installed we had a great goofy wake. After the stereo we couldn't get the goofy wake to clean up. I have my wake dialed in on my 22ve and just quit trying to dial that one in. If I wanted to surf I just used my boat. The former owner only surf reg so he didn't care much. With that being said I would do the surf flap. I think it will help alot but I think you need to put a ton of weight on the goofy side to counter the heavy sub box on the reg side.

              Comment


                #8
                jzts0214,

                Thanks for the heads up man! My whole family surfs regular as well but I have a couple buddies who come out with me who are goofy footed. I just feel bad I can't get the goofy side to look like my port wave. Your probably dead on about the heavy sub enclosure throwing it off. I haven't thrown an additional fat sac over there yet. Before we put the boat away for the winter I had a nice size crew out one day and put a couple big buddies behind the drivers seat. I bumped up the speed and was able to make the prop wash issue better but couldn't clean up the face of the wave to save my life. I'm guessing an extra 200 to 300 pounds in the locker down low is needed to counteract it. However, the port wave is money. Here's some pictures to give ya guys and idea of why I'm doing the flap.



                The pictures are taken from bad angles and are not very good but it gives you an idea of what it looks like. This was 600 full surf corner and 400 full up front, no opposite weighting. speeds from 9.0 to 12.0. Need the flap desperately. Plus I probably need more list.

                Comment


                  #9
                  What about taps? I run my taps pretty far down. Also 600 isn't enough for a good goofy wave, get a few hundred extra pounds, taps down and she should clean up a lot, flap will help, but not enough.
                  Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If I remember I think the wave was best about 11 and taps at 4. full ballast in just the rear no front weight. Im with you though I think the rod will cause a stress crack. You may have weight standing on it. That weight is pushing down on the brackets like it was designed. It just takes time to get your wake dialed in. Once its dialed you dont want to ride any other boat because you get used to it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      For those worried about stress cracks (presumably on transom glass), bear in mind that before 2009, the swim platform dug DEEP into the wave and had a 1" lip on it. The surf flap in the link above does not point downward and there is relatively free motion around the rod by U bolts -- so there is no (or small) rotational torque forces on the platform. The mat snugs up against the bottom of the swim platfrom and extends past the rear lip, actually decreasing drag. While there may be increased forces around the points the rod is attached, there would not be any differences in force on the transom attachment point (and it is probably reduced given less drag).

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Run with the flap as stiff as you can get it. I know myself as well as Duffy and another have hundreds of hours running a flap and don't no of any problems from it. Also keep in mind that the size and shape of the flap can have different affects so don't be afraid to play with different sizes and shapes. You are on the right track just play with it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          RZR I believe that Squid had his flap on for 2 seasons before switching over the the VX I don't believe he saw any issues with his swimdeck. I say go for it I will greatly clean up your wave.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If I am remembering correctly the taps positions for the pictures were at 2 and 4. Taps at 2 in the pictures with the girl and taps at 4 with the guy surfing. Bumping up the speed helped with taps at 2 as you can see in the picture, wave formation was better. As recommended here, I think I'm gonna need more weight in my starboard corner and the flap to clean it up.

                            As some of you may remember I posted a topic last summer about having trouble with my steering while surfing starboard as well. When we surf regular, steering is like butter straight line surfing is no problem. Surfing goofy, the boat wants to track left towards port, while driving you have to give the boat about a full quarter turn to the right to get the boat to "straight line drive." You don't have to fully strong arm it but it certainly takes some arm input to turn it starboard... this obviously changes the rudder position and has an effect as well. Now that jtzs0214 reminded me about the sub box that was moved over to the port side this makes a lot more sense now. Not having enough weight in the starboard corner will certainly throw things off with that sub box. I'm thinking I might have to drain off some front 400 weight while surfing to account for that heavy sub enclosure over on the front port side... we will see.... only experimenting will tell.

                            If the flap isn't allowed to rotate freely around the rod then I think there would definitely be stress issues. As long as the flap can rotate freely I think it will be ok. We will find out! Soon as the install is done, I'll post some pics.
                            Last edited by Z3CO23; 03-11-2014, 10:52 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by jzts0214 View Post
                              rzr23co before you bought that boat I spent a good amount of time on it. Before the subs were installed we had a great goofy wake. After the stereo we couldn't get the goofy wake to clean up. I have my wake dialed in on my 22ve and just quit trying to dial that one in. If I wanted to surf I just used my boat. The former owner only surf reg so he didn't care much. With that being said I would do the surf flap. I think it will help alot but I think you need to put a ton of weight on the goofy side to counter the heavy sub box on the reg side.
                              This is a stab in the dark but do you have any idea if the steering cable was ever changed? It looks like it runs up over the gas tank now and from what I've read that's not typical of a factory install. Thanks for the input, much appreciated!

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