Tige electronics geek question This means you Lee!

[talltigeguy]

I am installing a Rival ballast system.

Time has come to think of the electrical portion of the install. The switches provided are light tip switches.

The question I have is this: Under the dash is what looks like a main power line attached to multiple male connectors that would be ideal for the ballast/switch power. The unit is just above the perfect pass control on my 2005 24V. Is that unit connected to the dash power or the accessory power? If it is the dash power, then it would only give me power when the key is in the engine on position, making it impossible for me to use the ballast system when the engine is not on (unless I listen to that terrible screeching warning alarm). If it is on when the key is in the accessory position (just like my stereo), then I can fill and empty with the engine off (preferred).

I often am in a hurry to get to work in the morning and need to empty the ballast on the trailer, so I need the power to be available when the key is in the accessory position.

Going straight to the batttery is not an option because the switches will use a tiny amount of constant current because they are tip lit and would eventually run the battery down.

Where would I connect to have power with the key in the accessory position?

[Boarder_X]

Tall,

My OM, has a wiring diagram for the dash, that shows which wires are ACC, and which are ignition based.

You may want to start there.

[talltigeguy]

Owner's manual?

Do I have an owner's manual?

What kind of ridiculous suggestion is that? Just kidding.

Excellent suggestion - I really am not sure where it's at, but there are only 2-3 places it could be if I have one. I'll look there if no one else knows off of the top of their head.

[harv]

I just finished the install of the Rival Ballast system last night. It took a long time of working 2-3 hour nights.

If this helps, we connected switch power to the lower terminal on the ingnition. I will use the + quick disconnect on the battery to prevent any draining on the battery when we are not using the boat. I also wanted to fill and drain without the engine running and this was what we decided on.

We spent a lot of extra time to really do the job nice with a custom contoured switch mounting plate, soldered wires with heat shrinking, and quick disconnects on all of the bags for winterizing. I'm pretty happy that the job is done and I know my family is too.

I'll be putting the boat in the water for the first time (besides the test drive last fall) this weekend!

[talltigeguy]

Thanks Harv,

I have been shooting some pics and will post a 'look at my ballast install, I don't have anything better to do with my life thread' soon.

I'm looking for the same source that my stereo gets its power from. I may have to do some crawling around. I think that farting around with disconnecting my battery wire is just one more thing to complicate my routine and should not be necessary.

If you connected it to the right wire it should be unable to draw power when the key is turned off, right?

[Boarder_X]

You could just reroute the power to one of your switches. Instead of the switch getting it's power directly from the battery/ ignition. You could split off the ACC switches you already have, and make another one. Then the new switch will have ACC power. You can use it for the pumps. .. Depending on how many switches you need to run, you could do them all that way.

[talltigeguy]

Boarder X,

So what you're saying is I could get the power to the switches routed through the switch on the dash (I think I have 2 extra). It would essentially give me a 'total ballast system on' switch. Thanks for the thought. I'll have to consider that one.

[Matt Garcia]

Where the heck is the Mr. Tige Dealer know it all guy in this thread?! Im about to revoke that title!

[talltigeguy]

Lee has kind of let me down in my moment of need...

[tony dunn jr.]

I don't know if your boat has an existing acc switch on the dash already but if it does you could come off of that switch and turn it on and not have to turn the key to acc. My 06 ve has this switch and I had a stereo guy climbing around my boat checking it out and he pointed this out as a good feature to have. So i got my test lght out and sure enough the switch is hot when you toggle it on without the key on at all. I thought that was a pretty good idea! A guy could always add that switch. It would act just like a light switch in your House.

[talltigeguy]

Gotter done!

With a little trial and error, I was able to figure it out. I'll be posting with pics when I get it all done. It really wasn't too hard once I started searching.

BTW, hooking the switches directly to the battery wouldn't be a problem, if I had to do it that way. The tip of the switch only lights when it is on. So there should be no draw when the switch is off.

Thanks for your suggestions, folks!

I don't have a Tige owners manual. I have about 12 different owner's manuals for every component in the boat from amps to stereo to engine, tranny and vinyl. So I can't find any wiring schematic.

[lee]

With out reading all of the post and trying to figure it all out, I will start from scratch.

What about using some switches you already have in the dash for your ballast switches? That is how we do it in most cases. You might have to pull out two two-way switches and insert three-way switches but there is no hole driling and adding more wires.

If you are not going to use factory switches, why not come of the fuse block under the dash and use the fuses that are not in use?

Sorry summer is here and I have to do some work this week and entertain Mom this weekend. You guys better not forget your Mother because with out her you would not be the person you are now, in most cases.

Dr Phil.

[Paublo]

Sorry that I didn't see your post earlier and might have saved a little time for you. Just run off of the power terminal under the dash next to the ignition switch. It won't draw current when not in use(as you figured out). And be sure to fuse the whole thing. If you use the more expensive circuit breakers, you never have to worry about having the right size fuses around for spares. And fuse the valve separately. I'm looking forward to the pictures.

[talltigeguy]

Thanks paublo!

Near the ignition under the dash is where I wired it to. Works great so far.

I have 3 unused swithes on my dash for shower, tower lights and acc. I needed 4 switches, so I just used the ones that came with the Rival system.