To Winterize Or Not To Winterize

[loudelectronics]

Why not use a fake a lake and run antifreeze through everything? Takes 2 minutes to do if you have help.

[Ewok]

Why not use a fake a lake and run antifreeze through everything? Takes 2 minutes to do if you have help.

IMO, if you don't do it right, the antifreeze won't circulate everywhere and might leave some areas unprotected. Much safer and easier to drain all the water from the block than to hope the thermostat opened up to allow full antifreeze circulation. If the antifreeze mix is not strong enough and/or if it gets really cold (-60*F North Dakota cold) then the antifreeze could still freeze and cause damage.

[cpropes2005]

I agree with all of the comments about draining the block. Only takes a few minutes once you are used to it and gives you the extra piece of mind. I typically do mine several times each winter because we end up going for a few boat rides over the course of the winter and I just drain it again when we are done.

For reference my dad has an I/O on a lift on lake LBJ and he did the heater in the engine compartment thing for many years with no issues. That was until the big freeze about two years ago when it was below freezing for several days in a row, power went out at their lake house and it cracked the block. Now he drains the block every winter.

[WakerideN]

Used oil is caustic and can pit the soft engine metals such as bearings and pistons.

Used oil contains hydrocarbons (unburned fuel) that can soften and swell rubber seals and gaskets

A crankcase with used oil contains condensation created by the heat up and cool down cycles.

Im a fan of changing before layup.

what are the thoughts of changing or removing, but not refilling until spring? this goes back to that debate about the age of engine oil ext... but curious how you can get the best of both? just if you change now.. by the time spring rolls around... havent you exceeded the time based side of changing your oil? just looking for the best solution to this issue.

[Matt Garcia]

For reference my dad has an I/O on a lift on lake LBJ and he did the heater in the engine compartment thing for many years with no issues. That was until the big freeze about two years ago when it was below freezing for several days in a row, power went out at their lake house and it cracked the block. Now he drains the block every winter.

Ouch. This is why I never bought into the shop light idea, you still have a chance of cracking the block. I like to try and prevent Murphys Law.

[FBCoach]

I just moved up to a 2009 22ve from a 2007. pcm now. What is different about draining the block on the pcm?

[ktm450exc]

I have a 1997 2200v and I live in Dallas. I have performed the same steps since 1997 and I have never had a problem.
1. Run ethanol remover / gas treatment for 20 minutes
2. Spray fogging oil into intake to prevent rust
3. Remove freeze plugs. Its an easy job
4. spray 303 aerpsoace vinyl protector all over the seats. This has extended the life of the vinyl. It prevents vinyl from drying out and cracking.
5. Put tarp on boat
6. removed batteries and put on a battery maintainer.
I never understood why you would change oils and let it sit for months building up condensation. For the summer time I change oils, fuel filter and every two years the impeller.

[chpthril]

what are the thoughts of changing or removing, but not refilling until spring? this goes back to that debate about the age of engine oil ext... but curious how you can get the best of both? just if you change now.. by the time spring rolls around... havent you exceeded the time based side of changing your oil? just looking for the best solution to this issue.

To be honest, in 25+ years in the auto biz, ive never heard of new oil, specifically the additives, having a shelf life. So I guess i need to look into it before commenting on it. If RE of leaving filed with freshly changed oil or leaving drained, im for leaving filled.

[chpthril]

I just moved up to a 2009 22ve from a 2007. pcm now. What is different about draining the block on the pcm?

The basics are the same as there are only slight differences between the MP and PCM marine engines.

[chpthril]

Why not use a fake a lake and run antifreeze through everything? Takes 2 minutes to do if you have help.

Like Ewok explained, most of the antifreeze will just bypass to the exhaust and exit with the block still full of water. To go further, the pink RV/Marine (hope thats what everyone is using) is most effective at 100%. Its not like automotive coolant that gets mixed. Running it through a block thats full of water will will raise its freeze point.

[mls6722]

O have heard many sad stories of $6000 engine replacements due to unexpected freeze damage. Never had anyone tell me they regretted winterizing. Draining oil for the winter does not make sense. You need to run with fresh oil to flush out the acidic old oil

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[mls6722]

Don't forget the heater. Disconnect both hoses at the engine and blow on one until the water is flushed out.

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[JohnnieMo]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

I got this link on here one day. This is where I learned that mineral oil has a shelf life. My boat has had synthetic ever since. Excellent read if you've got the time.

[IDBoating]

If RE of leaving filed with freshly changed oil or leaving drained, im for leaving filled.

x2. The more oil, the less open air in various places in the engine, Air contains water (humidity), and as temps fall the air's ability to hold moisture drops (relative humidity), which means the water will precipitate out of the air and condense on those nearby cool metal surfaces. Keeping it full of oil reduces the amount of air, and thus water, that sits inside your engine for months and months.

For those who are really super concerned about it: Just change the oil AGAIN in the Spring when you de-winterize the boat. You won't need to change the filter since it hasn't seen any oil circulation. A gallon of fresh Rotella T and a few minutes with an extraction pump and your worries are behind you.

[Matt Garcia]

I have a 1997 2200v and I live in Dallas. I have performed the same steps since 1997 and I have never had a problem.
1. Run ethanol remover / gas treatment for 20 minutes
2. Spray fogging oil into intake to prevent rust
3. Remove freeze plugs. Its an easy job
4. spray 303 aerpsoace vinyl protector all over the seats. This has extended the life of the vinyl. It prevents vinyl from drying out and cracking.
5. Put tarp on boat
6. removed batteries and put on a battery maintainer.
I never understood why you would change oils and let it sit for months building up condensation. For the summer time I change oils, fuel filter and every two years the impeller.

Number 4 is an often overlooked item IMO. I have been guilty of this.

If anyone has ever used their boat in the winter you will notice the vinyl is much stiffer and not as pliable as it is in the summer.