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    Electrical Issue

    I am having an issue where my boat won't start. Both batteries are charged and everything electrical seems to work but when I try to start the boat there is nothing. Engine won't turnover and no clicking noise. I found what I think is the neutral safety switch but I am not sure how to test it. Does anyone know what the correct behavior is for the switch? There are two yellow wires coming out of the switch and I tested the voltage across them and this is what I found.

    Key in on position but not cranking and boat in neutral was 0.0 V
    Key in on position but not cranking and boat in forward or reverse was 0.02V
    Key in cranking position and boat in neutral was 0.0V
    Key in cranking position and boat in forward or reverse was 12V

    #2
    The NSS is closed, continuity between the 2 contacts, when the trans is in neutral. This allows B+ from the key switch when its in the crank position, to pass through the switch to the starter solenoid. Switch is open when the trans is in gear, preventing the starter from activating.

    To test, you need to check for voltage on each terminal with your meter's common lead grounded. You can not test across both terminals.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      When did it work correct last? From your post, you're showing 12v at the neutral switch when in forward or reverse: did you connect anything behind the shifter? If you're getting 12v to the neutral switch when in gear, it won't start because the switch is closed when in the neutral position and open when shifted. Some model shifters have the nss mounted to them where the cables attach but the true switch is located on the trans and has two yellow with red stripe wires on it. It sounds like something was changed elsewhere in the system. You can test with an external wire connected directly from the keyswitch start position (yellow with red wire) to the neutral safety switch (does not matter which side of the switch you connect to as long as you leave both wires on the switch in place.
      Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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        #4
        I got a chance to go do some more testing last night and by grounding directly to the battery and testing each terminal on the switch I got 12v when in neutral and key in cranking position and 0V when in gear and key in cranking position. This has me thinking it isn’t the switch. Any ideas of what else it could be?

        The last thing I did to the boat was mess with the return spring on my perfect pass. I didn’t touch anything electrical but I was working back there and when I went to test out the new spring it wouldn’t start. Anyone know what the thin red wire that I am holding in the picture below is for? It comes out of the same group of wires that connect to the starter but it runs back and it looks like it goes into my battery switch. I am looking at this wire just because it runs right past my throttle assembly so maybe it is possible that I nicked it or pulled it loose while I was working on the perfect pass.

        starter wires.jpg

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          #5
          Next step is to test for battery voltage at the yellow/red wire at the starter with shifter in neutral and key I'm crank. I believe there is a starter relay in between the nss and starter solenoid.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #6
            So note to self, always try the easiest option first. I tested the wire going into the starter solenoid and got 12v so then I tested the wire going from the solenoid into the starter and got 12v there. Finally decided it had to be the starter so I tapped on it with a wrench until it turned over and started. So back in action for now but does that mean I should plan on replacing the starter in the near future?

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              #7
              or have it rebuilt
              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                #8
                Good point, definitely cheaper to have it rebuilt. Thanks for all of the help. It sure is nice to have knowledgeable people to bounce ideas off of when trying to trouble shoot stuff like this.

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