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    Motor issues need help!

    I have a tige PRE2200v wt 1998

    Just went out on my third ride tubing with the kids. Everything was fine and then an alarm went off and I notice the tempter was spiked, then the engine cut out. Waited a bit and tried to start and it didn't sound good so we paddled in. The back of the did have smoke/ steam was coming out the back. I checked the oil and the level was fine and it was clean ( not milky).

    Did not know if anybody had any ideas. Thanks for any help


    Brian

    #2
    I would pull the impeller for starters.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Overheated - I'd start with checking the sea strainer for debris (if equipped), and then work your way to the the water pump impeller.

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        #4
        Does the engine have a shut off so that there is not any damage? If I was to try to start it now would that do damage?

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          #5
          I would not start it yet. Check the impeller first then and get it replaced. Look at the sea strainer and clear it. Search about impeller replacement as there is info on this sight. Also do not start and I repeat do not start it dry. Get a fake-a-lake or some way to run water through the engine. If you can do this yourself it will same some $$$. However if it is not one of these better take it to the shop.
          Wake Up or Stay On Shore!

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            #6
            If you would like to try and start it just to see if everything sounds okay, do this: use a 5/8" deep socket and on the upper idler pulley that has a snout on the inner part of the nut and loosen, this will loosen the tension on the belt and allow it to be removed. Now you can start it BRIEFLY without the belt attached, which sill subsequently not run the raw water pump, the circulating pump or the alternator but it will allow the engine to run dry for a few seconds (10 seconds max but enough time to listen for problems). While cranking the motor pay attention to 1)Does it sound like it usually does, even rotation with no noticeable noises, and 2) is it starting in the same amount of time as normal? If not, pay attention to what it sounds like or what noises it is making both during cranking and if it starts while running.
            Usually we see motors shut down from heat like that because the fuel is boiling and cant be atomized correctly. Try it out and report back with any info. Good luck.
            Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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              #7
              Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
              If you would like to try and start it just to see if everything sounds okay, do this: use a 5/8" deep socket and on the upper idler pulley that has a snout on the inner part of the nut and loosen, this will loosen the tension on the belt and allow it to be removed. Now you can start it BRIEFLY without the belt attached, which sill subsequently not run the raw water pump, the circulating pump or the alternator but it will allow the engine to run dry for a few seconds (10 seconds max but enough time to listen for problems). While cranking the motor pay attention to 1)Does it sound like it usually does, even rotation with no noticeable noises, and 2) is it starting in the same amount of time as normal? If not, pay attention to what it sounds like or what noises it is making both during cranking and if it starts while running.
              Usually we see motors shut down from heat like that because the fuel is boiling and cant be atomized correctly. Try it out and report back with any info. Good luck.
              That is some great advise for any boat owner.
              Wake Up or Stay On Shore!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
                If you would like to try and start it just to see if everything sounds okay, do this: use a 5/8" deep socket and on the upper idler pulley that has a snout on the inner part of the nut and loosen, this will loosen the tension on the belt and allow it to be removed. Now you can start it BRIEFLY without the belt attached, which sill subsequently not run the raw water pump, the circulating pump or the alternator but it will allow the engine to run dry for a few seconds (10 seconds max but enough time to listen for problems). While cranking the motor pay attention to 1)Does it sound like it usually does, even rotation with no noticeable noises, and 2) is it starting in the same amount of time as normal? If not, pay attention to what it sounds like or what noises it is making both during cranking and if it starts while running.
                Usually we see motors shut down from heat like that because the fuel is boiling and cant be atomized correctly. Try it out and report back with any info. Good luck.
                Good stuff right there! Also can try to spin the raw water pump by had with the belt off, if it spins super easy impeller is toast.

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                  #9
                  Ok, so after a very ruff night thinking my new to me boat is toast I was able to figure out everything that happened. The motor had hydro-locked because it stopped so quickly, once I took all the spark plugs off and turned it over everything cleared out. I found out that I do not have a sea strainer ( but I will have one as soon as it comes in) and I had picked up some weeds and that is what caused the overheating. Also found out that the owner before me had blown his impeller but did not think to go find all the pieces because it was all in the transmission cooler. I did think that my impeller went at first but after I went into the housing and found that it was in pretty good shape I figured that was the cause. I did replace the impeller and housing and it looks like the temp is holding in around 170-180.

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                    #10
                    that was not the end of the story either... after that was all fixed I went out for a ride and then the power just cut off completely. Went to check the main rest and it was complete corroded and would not move. Replaced it with one off my old boat and everything is running fine now.

                    Anybody know why this would get that bad? Is there anything else I could check to make sure this doesn't happen again?

                    thanks

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                      #11
                      Glad to here you got it fixed with minimal cost. However why was it "hydro-locked"?
                      Wake Up or Stay On Shore!

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                        #12
                        In reading a PDF on the motor that a friend found online it was taking about it. It looks like because the engine stopped so quickly some of the water in the exhaust came back into the open exhaust values and locked up those cylinders. It wasn't all of them just 3 had water in it, it was odd that the manual we found online said that if this happens clear the cylinders and try to duplicate the problem. I have put an hour on the boat since this issue and it seems to be fine.

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