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2004 22V Riders Steering is very stiff

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    2004 22V Riders Steering is very stiff

    I just put my boat in last week and found the steering to be very stiff and don't remember it being that when last year when I put it away. Are there grease fitting for your steering mechanism that I should be greasing? If there is I have never done this. Any other suggestions? I plan on having the steering cable changed out at the end of the year but was hoping to make it through this summer as is.

    I look forward to the feedback.

    Thanks,

    Dan

    #2
    There is a grease zerk on the rudder box assembly. It can be fun trying to reach it. But very likely that will not make a large difference. You should probably just plan to replace the cable sooner. Here is a great how-to on doing it yourself: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...steering-cable

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      #3
      Originally posted by dlcork View Post
      I just put my boat in last week and found the steering to be very stiff and don't remember it being that when last year when I put it away. Are there grease fitting for your steering mechanism that I should be greasing? If there is I have never done this. Any other suggestions? I plan on having the steering cable changed out at the end of the year but was hoping to make it through this summer as is.

      I look forward to the feedback.

      Thanks,

      Dan
      I have a 2004 24V. My steering was stiff, replacing steering cable was the fix. You will not believe the difference and you will wish you did it sooner. My 2 year old can turn the wheel one handed now. You will almost wonder if its even connected after you change it.

      The sticky on the cable was really really helpful. The tips I remember off the top of my head was:

      1) Get the Extreme version of the cable
      2) cut it to get the existing one out. I ended up using a Dremel with a cutting wheel.
      3) Get a short 1 1/8" wrench (I cut a wrench into a small stubby one), I also cut the 12 point to have an open end like a brake wrench (same cutting wheel using dremel), made it easier to slip over the nut when working blind under engine where the bolt is (I also used a mirror and light).
      4) Yours is likely similar to mine, push new cable toward bow into the open area then when pull it back over the gas tank.
      5) Mine had a slight "sticky" spot after replacing the cable. It was caused because the part the cable feeds thru needs to pivot slightly so that the rudder arm can make its arc. I sprayed some grease and that fixed it.

      Good luck! Its a DIY job (I would consider myself a relatively basic DIY'er), the only frustrating part for me was removing the big nut but after cutting a wrench to be short enough to fit and then opening up the 12 point it went much easier. The previous cable was already over the gas tank so mine was pretty easy as I could run a rope to the new one.

      Steve
      Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter

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        #4
        Thanks for the info

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          #5
          make sure you run a ground cable from the steering cable mount under the engine to the engine block keeps the steering cable from arcing inside the cable that one thing that makes the cable get stiff like that I think the call it electrolysis
          " ALL THE COOL KIDS ARE DOING IT"

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            #6
            Change it before your helm gets loose and have to replace that as well. I faught mine for a year and there is so much slop in the steering afterwards.
            2016 Tige Z3, 2014 Tige Z3
            2013 Tige Z3, 2004 Tige 24V (Legen....dary)

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              #7
              What they said.

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