Rev8 Wet Sounds Squeak?

[hallazz]

Just installed a pair of Rev8's and new HT4 amp. The speakers sound awesome, except when I turn the ignition on. When I turn the key on the speakers make a high pitched squeal whenever the fuel pump is running. Once the fuel pump stops the noise goes away. Has anyone had any problems with this?

[chpthril]

The speakers are simply reproducing the signal thats sent to them. Theres a good chance that the amp is just amplifying the signal that its being sent. This means the noise is upstream.

Tell us more about the entire system.
What audio gear was there before the Rev-8/HT-4 install?
Anything else installed at the same time like an EQ?
Where there any changes made to the battery system?
Does the boat have a dual battery setup?
Where did you connect the new HT-4 amp's B+ and GND?
Disconnect the amp's RCA cables and turn the key on and see if the noise is still present. At that percent are the amp gains set to?

[hallazz]

There is also a JBL amp tied into the system. It has a dual battery system and I also installed a Perko switch. The gain is set at 3/4.

[hallazz]

Just found that the input ch. 1 female RCA end coming out of the amp is messed up. If I move the wire by the end the sound goes in and out and gets a little crackly. I don't think that is the problem, but thought I would share.

[talltigeguy]

My money is on a ground not being correctly wired. Make sure the head unit, any EQ's and the amps are all grounded at the exact same spot.

[chpthril]

There is also a JBL amp tied into the system. It has a dual battery system and I also installed a Perko switch. The gain is set at 3/4.

Gains up 3/4 is too high. We typically find that most amp will end up around no higher then half way, and thats with 2V head-unit.

Where are the amps' B+ connected to? Directly to a battery and which one, or to the C post of the switch? Did this boat originally come with the Tige EIDB Dual-Battery system and if so, is the diode isolator still part of the system? Is the head-unit's yellow B+ still wired to the boats factory harness or is it relocated to the same spot as the amps?

Just found that the input ch. 1 female RCA end coming out of the amp is messed up. If I move the wire by the end the sound goes in and out and gets a little crackly. I don't think that is the problem, but thought I would share.

A shroted or lose RCA will certainly create some noise. Is it the RCA cable from the head-unit or the input lead connected to the amp? If its the RCA cable, lay across a substitute one and eliminate that damaged/suspect cable. If its the amps input lead, move the RCA cables to the chnl 3/4 leads, change the input source to 4 chnl and see if the noise is gone. You may find that only one Rev-8 plays though. If all sounds good with that one speaker, then swap the speaker plugs and see what the other one sounds like.

[hallazz]

I will lower the gain to half way. The B+ for the amps is connected to the same post as the helm eletronics. It looks like the boat came from factory with a two battery system I am not sure though. I just bought the boat last year.

Is the diode isolator the box that has the lead from the alternator with two other leads going to the batteries?

I didn't change the yellow B+ of the head unit so it is most likely still not hooked up to the amps.

The input RCA cable off the HT4 is what is bad. I switched the splitter RCA's that I have hooked up to others coming out of the amp and no matter which way it is hooked up the input ch.1 RCA messes up the sound whenever I move it.

[chpthril]

I will lower the gain to half way.

Im willing to bet they need to be lower then they are, but they need to be set according to 1 of the common methods of setting it accurately. This can be done by ear, with a DVOM, by an O-scope or a distortion detector. Google "Setting amp gains" and you should find a method you can use. The my the ear method has also been posted here by Phil from Kicker Marine and Tim from Wet Sounds, so try the site search key.

The B+ for the amps is connected to the same post as the helm electronics.

Battery post or helm BUSS? This is very crucial, especially since you may have a diode isolator and a traditional dual-battery switch.

Is the diode isolator the box that has the lead from the alternator with two other leads going to the batteries?

Yes and IIRC, its kinda blue in color. You need to confirm whether or not its part of the system still.

I didn't change the yellow B+ of the head unit so it is most likely still not hooked up to the amps

Having the head-unit and or EQ pulling from a different battery source then the amps is the #1 cause of unwanted noise. This is a must to address, but the amp's B+ termination needs be done first, but we need to sort out the battery switch and battery bank scheme first, so we know where to connect the amps.

The input RCA cable off the HT4 is what is bad. I switched the splitter RCA's that I have hooked up to others coming out of the amp and no matter which way it is hooked up the input ch.1 RCA messes up the sound whenever I move it.

As soon as you posted you had a cable that looked damaged, it became my lead suspect. Once you get that taken care of, just an FYI, you should not need Y cables when running that amp in 2 chnl mode for a single pair of speakers. With the "Input" button pushed in, the amp will pass through the audio to all chnls.

[hallazz]

I took out the Y cables and put the amp in 2 channel mode. Turned the gain down to half. The speakers sound awesome! We listened to them all weekend. I am going to get ahold of wet sounds to see what they will do since it is a factory defect. I got them from a dealer that I also told about the problem. Thanks for all the tips and help!