I was troubleshooting my fuel sender using a voltmeter to test the ohms and determined that the sender is only registering the float at a couple points and, otherwise, is sending no signal. My gauge seems to be properly displaying these values, so my first question is:
1. Is the fuel gauge like other gauges, where it only works when the boat is in the "ON" position, or does it work regardless? I ask because it doesn't go to the bottom like other gauges when the boat is off and want to make sure it's working properly.
2. Where can I find a replacement sender and what model or part # do I need?
Additionally, I have an issue with my TAPS 2. The gauge is making an on-and-off whining noise and the needle is wandering randomly. After I noticed that, I tested the switch on the throttle and noted it was not working. Then, I checked the connections at the gauge and the whining has stopped for now. However, the switch on the throttle is still not working.
I called Bennet this morning and was told there should be three wires coming out from the actuator that I could use to first test the functionality of the actuator by connecting either the yellow or blue to the green to move the trim up or down. However, when I followed the line leaving the actuator to the dash, there were only two wires, which were black and white.
3. Does anyone know what the function of the black and white wires are?
I did some research and saw that often the wires going through the throttle to the switch are very thin and often fray and go bad. I went to remove the handle/switch from the top of the throttle by removing the small allen bolt. The best-fitting allen wrench I found was 3/32”, but it had some room for play and when I attempted to turn the bolt with it, it rotated with the bolt head.
4. What is the proper allen wrench size to remove the nut from the top of the throttle? If 3/32” is the proper size, what is the best method to get it out? I was thinking super glue or epoxy and then sticking in the 3/32” allen wrench.
I noticed that there are three cables that go to the throttle, which are black, white, and red.
5. If I want to manually test these wires to see if they’re frayed within the throttle, which cables should I touch to a 12V power source to move the tab up or down?
Sorry if my post is lengthy and unclear in anyway and if any of these questions have been addressed before. Thanks!
1. Is the fuel gauge like other gauges, where it only works when the boat is in the "ON" position, or does it work regardless? I ask because it doesn't go to the bottom like other gauges when the boat is off and want to make sure it's working properly.
2. Where can I find a replacement sender and what model or part # do I need?
Additionally, I have an issue with my TAPS 2. The gauge is making an on-and-off whining noise and the needle is wandering randomly. After I noticed that, I tested the switch on the throttle and noted it was not working. Then, I checked the connections at the gauge and the whining has stopped for now. However, the switch on the throttle is still not working.
I called Bennet this morning and was told there should be three wires coming out from the actuator that I could use to first test the functionality of the actuator by connecting either the yellow or blue to the green to move the trim up or down. However, when I followed the line leaving the actuator to the dash, there were only two wires, which were black and white.
3. Does anyone know what the function of the black and white wires are?
I did some research and saw that often the wires going through the throttle to the switch are very thin and often fray and go bad. I went to remove the handle/switch from the top of the throttle by removing the small allen bolt. The best-fitting allen wrench I found was 3/32”, but it had some room for play and when I attempted to turn the bolt with it, it rotated with the bolt head.
4. What is the proper allen wrench size to remove the nut from the top of the throttle? If 3/32” is the proper size, what is the best method to get it out? I was thinking super glue or epoxy and then sticking in the 3/32” allen wrench.
I noticed that there are three cables that go to the throttle, which are black, white, and red.
5. If I want to manually test these wires to see if they’re frayed within the throttle, which cables should I touch to a 12V power source to move the tab up or down?
Sorry if my post is lengthy and unclear in anyway and if any of these questions have been addressed before. Thanks!
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