Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

any one use XSpower batteries.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    any one use XSpower batteries.

    Looking to upgrade my house battery and was thinking of using the d6500. I have 3 syn 4s and a syn 1. 2 syn 4 run the 4 rev 10s, one syn for for 8 xs650 and then the syn 1 for the xxx. I have most the gains set about half way but I use all the watt out of each amp. If the boat isn't running the tige touch battery voltage will decrease. I can only run the radio half way up for 1/2 hour before the batteries die. I s that the xs power batteries store voltage like a capacitor does so it might solve that problem. If any runs the d65oo how long can you run the radio before the batteries die. With the price of those batteries I would prefer to only have to by one but If I need a second battery I understand.

    #2
    I use a XS 16V in my race car. It has been great went through lots of abuse 6 sec 200MPH passes for two years and still going strong.... my .02

    Comment


      #3
      Why are both batteries going dead? Have you had the batteries tested? Are you using a shore charger to recharge the batteries, especially the house battery, once off the water?

      Sounds like you have an expired battery problem or you are starting the next trip out with a partially depleted battery. The amp hours of a typical group-24 is about 65 Ah, whats the Ah of the D6500? The Ah will determine how mong you can play, providing the batteries are fully charged.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

      Comment


        #4
        ever since I got my boat I have to run the battery switch on combined. If I switch it to position 1 and drive the boat with the radio off the battery volts will drop until the motor dies. It has been into tige for this problem twice. The first time they said they couldn't find a problem and the next time they over looked the problem.

        Comment


          #5
          No battery will solve your problem.....as your boat aint right. Did you buy it used? when was the extra stereo gear added? You should not have to drive around with the switch in the combine position. The boat has a diode isolator that allows both batteries to be charged while the engine is running, yet the stereo loads will not draw down the main cranking when the engine is off. Something is not right and needs to be addressed first. Its a VERY simple system for those that understand mobile 12v.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

          Comment


            #6
            ever since I got my boat I have to run the battery switch on combined. If I switch it to position 1 and drive the boat with the radio off the battery volts will drop until the motor dies. It has been into tige for this problem twice. The first time they said they couldn't find a problem and the next time they over looked the problem.

            Comment


              #7
              Ive always wanted to see CO, fly me out, ill fix it.....hows Aug?
              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

              Comment


                #8
                I bought my boat brand new and its still under warranty. If my cranking battery was bad would I have this problem. Also I have a Deka 8g27 out of my last boat but was told that I could not just replace the deep cycle battery because the cranking battery isn't gel and it would ruin the cranking battery. Is this true? Mike I really appriciate the help. You are great. By the way my next up grade is to upgrade the sacs to a custom. Will you pm me the price on the custom sacs for both sides of a 11 22ve.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Boat may be still under warranty, but the audio upgrades are far form OEM. Where the stereo upgrades done when you purchased it at your request or was it done before you even looked at the boat? Just trying to establish a time line that might help get the diagnosing going in the right time. I am wondering if the installer did some re-configuring with the battery banks/charging scheme, thus inducing this problem. A digital volt meter and and hour I think the problem could be found, seriously! Its just a matter of checking the B+ and GND cables looking for B+ where is should be with the engine off, then cranking the boat up and checking for B+ where it should be with the engine running.

                  Your switch is the OFF/ON/COMBINE, correct?

                  If you system was wired and working correctly, then I would say yes, you can install that AGM Deka in place of the OEM wet cell Group-24 deep-cycle. But with out knowing whats going on with your setup, id say hold off on any battery upgrades until the root cause is corrected.
                  Last edited by chpthril; 05-07-2013, 11:36 AM.
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yes that is correct on the switch. I was the installer and all I did was hook 2 power wires and 2 ground wires up to the deep cycle battery and run them up to my terminal block for my amps

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Man, its sounds like theres a rogue battery cable thats MIA back there somewhere from the main cranking battery. On a side, note, your amp's B+ should connect to the #2b post of the Dual-Circuit Plus switch as opposed to directly to the house battery. Also, just curious how you determined which of the 2 batteries was the house battery? W may be on to something.
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                        Also, just curious how you determined which of the 2 batteries was the house battery? W may be on to something.
                        This!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The boat came with 2 interstate batteries. On batter says marine cranking and the other battery says marine deep cycle. I hooked the amps up to the marine deep cycle. Would that be correct?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by jzts0214 View Post
                            The boat came with 2 interstate batteries. On batter says marine cranking and the other battery says marine deep cycle. I hooked the amps up to the marine deep cycle. Would that be correct?
                            That should be right as long as they are wired up correctly and the cranking battery is indeed the cranking battery. Disconnect the deep cycle and see if you still have power to the ignition when the switch is in the On position.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by jzts0214 View Post
                              The boat came with 2 interstate batteries. On batter says marine cranking and the other battery says marine deep cycle. I hooked the amps up to the marine deep cycle. Would that be correct?
                              Like Timmy said, the only thing for usre is that you connected the amps to the deep-cycle, doesnt mean its the house battery as the switch is concerned. I would dismount the switch and fallow some wires to see where they go. The switch has 2 #1 posts and 2 #2 posts.

                              #1a (upper #1 post) goes to main cranking
                              #1b (lower # 1) goes to starter
                              #2a (Upper #2)goes to house battery B+
                              #2b )lower #2) goes to amps and other house loads
                              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X