Looking for sub advice for RZR

[chpthril]

If possible it would be cleaner to stick with one brand and series

This is always a goal of mine. when designing a system, as long as every driver gets good power and its fits within the budget. Other than aesthetics, there is no reason to stay with a single brand or series.

Help me with the ohm ratings I would run the in boats, tower, and sub (assume DVC) to help compare these amps

Ooh, thats a task

6 in-boats =
SD-6 = 185 watts rms to each,

Syn-4 = 100w rms to each

HT-6 = 110w rms to each,

Arc XDi1200.6 = 150w rms to each,

JL M600/6 = 75w rms to each

[chpthril]

Rev-10 towers:

SD-2 = 400w rms to each

Arc Audio KS600.2 400w

Syn-4 = 400w rms to each

JL HD750/1 = 375W rms to each but this amp has a regulated power supply, so it delivers its power across the operating voltage

Arc KS350.4 350W rms to each,

HT-4 or Arc XDi600.4 = 300W rms to each. These 2 options would also be good for a single pair of Rev-8

For 2 pair of Rev-8:

SD-2 = 310w rms to each

KS600.2 = 300w rms to each

HD750/1 = 187w rms to each

Syn-2 = 175w rms to each

Arc XDi 600.4 = 150w rms to each

[mschmidt33]

I didn't expect you to do all that! Thanks, I wanted to know what resistance I would run each zone at. 4 ohm for in boats, 2 ohm for tower, and 1 ohm for sub???

[mschmidt33]

OK here is what I'm thinking based on your numbers and the pricing I see.

Rev 8's w/HT-4
In boats w/ HT-6

Still working on sub + amp

Am I leaving anything on the table if I go this route?

[chpthril]

I didn't expect you to do all that! Thanks, I wanted to know what resistance I would run each zone at. 4 ohm for in boats, 2 ohm for tower, and 1 ohm for sub???

All the speakers are 4 ohm, so theres no changing that. The load at the amp will change when to speakers are wired together and share a chnl. Wired in parallel, they = 2 ohm, wired in series, they = 8 ohm. What ever the amps output per chnl @ ? ohm, the 2 speakers will divide that output.

DVC subs on the other hand, typically come in 2 and 4 ohm DVC options. The coils can be wired either in series or parallel in order to be the best match load wise, to a given amp.

[chpthril]

OK here is what I'm thinking based on your numbers and the pricing I see.

Rev 8's w/HT-4
In boats w/ HT-6

Still working on sub + amp

Am I leaving anything on the table if I go this route?

not at all.

[chpthril]

not at all.

You could go with a pair of HT-1's and a high watt handling 2 ohm DVC and wire each 2 ohm coil to its one HT-1 for a 1200W rms setup. Kinda tricky to setup/tune, but all the amp match.

[mschmidt33]

OK, I like this route and the 2 HT-1's are cheaper than some of the other options. Fits the xxxv2 as well as that is 2ohm DVC. What would be tricky about the setup or tuning? I assume getting the gains to match. Having a single remote bass control is a must so would this be achieveable? I don't want a ws-420, just a line leveler to turbo off each zone (boats, tower, sub). I will dial in the frequencies and amp gains and use the HU/remotes to control volume.

You could go with a pair of HT-1's and a high watt handling 2 ohm DVC and wire each 2 ohm coil to its one HT-1 for a 1200W rms setup. Kinda tricky to setup/tune, but all the amp match.

[mschmidt33]

Maybe I could just ditch the bass control knobs and use RCA levelers and split the RCA's together? I don't even know how many RCA outputs the RZR HU has, likely just front a rear so would need to do some splitting anyway. We are getting close. This is exciting!

[mschmidt33]

So I picked up an HT-6 for the in boats but realize there are only four wires coming from the six speakers? Looks like the rear two pair have the positive run in series for bridging but I forget where the negatives run from the furthest rear speakers. Trying to save to time and keep it cleaner vs. running new wires for the rears. Help

[boardman74]

You may have to run new wires from the rears. Some of them are kinda butchered. I run the HT's in my boat and couldn't be happier. The REV8's scream off a HT-4.

[mschmidt33]

Yea figured it out. New wires from the rear and maybe the middles

[chpthril]

So I picked up an HT-6 for the in boats but realize there are only four wires coming from the six speakers? Looks like the rear two pair have the positive run in series for bridging but I forget where the negatives run from the furthest rear speakers. Trying to save to time and keep it cleaner vs. running new wires for the rears. Help

They are actually run in parallel. You can easily change the parallel to series and then bridge the 2-conductor at the amp. Series makes an 8 ohm load at the amp. Bridging an 8 ohm load nets the 4 ohm power, 110W rms, to each speaker.

Whats funny, I just did this same procedure today, on an 05 Tige 22V on an HT-6

[chpthril]

Maybe I could just ditch the bass control knobs and use RCA levelers and split the RCA's together? I don't even know how many RCA outputs the RZR HU has, likely just front a rear so would need to do some splitting anyway. We are getting close. This is exciting!

The Clarion Head-unit has a front rear and non-fade outputs. If you are not going to go with an EQ like the WS-420, then a simple line level POT like the PAC LC1 will work, just Y the RCA's at the amp. Or go with a couple of Kicker ZXM-RLC Zone controllers for 3 zone volume control

[mschmidt33]

Thanks. I ran one set of rcas to the ht6 and all 6 speakers work with the input buttons it has. Ht4 will get the other and I thought the third was a sub output for the sub amp I end up with. I will figure it out. If not I will let you know. Seriously thanks a ton for all the help. The in boats sound really good in my garage. Gains at 50 and crossover at 100hz maybe. Needs some tuning with the bass and treble etc. Now I need to decide on rev 10s or 8s next with the ht4???? Sub will be last. Arc audio xdi1000v1's are 300 bucks locally. Would that push a xxxv2? 2 ohm dvc bridged to 1 ohm would be 1150rms.

The Clarion Head-unit has a front rear and non-fade outputs. If you are not going to go with an EQ like the WS-420, then a simple line level POT like the PAC LC1 will work, just Y the RCA's at the amp. Or go with a couple of Kicker ZXM-RLC Zone controllers for 3 zone volume control