Looking for sub advice for RZR

[Iwndr]

You could get a little crazy if you wanted on the RZR:

Nicely Done Shark

[boardman74]

Thats is a very nice job. Very clean.

[barry1me]

FWIW, I have been running the same 10" RE re series sub for 10 years. It still hits just as hard as new and still sounds great.

What amp are you running?

I have had a syn 2 hooked to both subs and the RE is still the better sub IMO. Both subs are in ported enclosures built to the manf. specs.

How do you like the syn 2 with this amp?

[NICKYPOO]

It's a just as vintage Rockford Fosgate Punch 200.2, bridged. The sub is in a 1cf sealed box stuffed with polyfil. It's very basic. I think I have less than $250 in bass. It sounds plenty respectable, it will ripple the water if turned up and has been bulletproof for 10 years now. It should be noted that I'm not a big stereo guy. I don't even run tower speakers. I keep my music in my boat.

[Bruizza]

What amp are you running?


How do you like the syn 2 with this amp?

I am assuming you meant with that sub. It sounded great but with the RE Audio 3000.1 amp running it it sounds even better. Syn 2 is $570. RE Audio 3000.1 is $250. If you want to run all WS amps I would suggest an SD2 for the RE Sub.

[trudelle]

Go ahead and get crazy with the sub/s like me
2x 15" FI BTL's with a Sundown SAZ3500.1
put them in the rear compartments next to the engine

[Duncan]

Nice enclosure. Are those front ports?

Does anyone know of other pics of sealed and ported after market sub enclosures (ideally on an RZ2 )?

[NICKYPOO]

Here's an old pic of mine. Also its location. It's as high up as I could get it to minimize the chance of getting punctured. It's also behind the bulkhead for sort of a flush type finish. When I eventually re-do it, it will be a down firing set up.

[barry1me]

I like the location under the dash area. Whats the advantage of the downfing sub?

[bryce2320]

I like the location under the dash area. Whats the advantage of the downfing sub?

Probably loading off of the floor if any. I have mine facing towards the cabin, and the port is too. Im putting 2 10" kicker L7's in my rear ski locker where the port will load off of the transom. I'll have to play with it to see what is louder or more audible. I built the box so no matter what, the L7 will be firing towards the hull on each side, but the port can eathier face the transom, or I can flip it and have it load off the rear seat. I'd also like to know more about what is the "best" or most audible way to face the sub. Loading off of the hull would be what I'd try first.

[houstonshark]

Nice enclosure. Are those front ports?

Does anyone know of other pics of sealed and ported after market sub enclosures (ideally on an RZ2 )?

The holes on either side were drilled so I could router out the slots for the ports. The maze inside the enclosure are the ports.

[chpthril]

Great info guys. For the newb I am what is sq and SPL? What will a wet sound 12inch sub cost and what amp should I push it with? I think I currently have a syn6? Pushing the rev 8s and I think a syn 2 pushing the 4 smaller wetsound speakers in the boat.

here a couple of good explanations:

Definition: SPL
SPL refers to the sound pressure level you experience as a listener--in other words, how loud is the noise coming out of the subwoofer? Measured in decibels, the SPL is affected by the decibel rating of the system speakers, wattage of the amplifier, speaker placement and position, and number of speakers in the stereo or home theater system. SPL is a quantifiable measurement; you can buy an SPL meter at specialty electronics stores if you want to measure your subwoofer's output. If you're after a high-SPL subwoofer, look for one whose drivers have a high power rating and high volume displacement.

Definition: SQ
SQ refers to the sound quality of the noise produced by the subwoofer. There is no hard-and-fast way to measure SQ; this largely depends on the listener's preference. The way we perceive sound quality can be affected by a number of things, including the subwoofer's placement in a car or a room, the shape of the room and absorbing materials placed near the subwoofer (fabric, carpet, curtains, etc.). At its most basic level, a good subwoofer should reproduce the desired frequency range at plus or minus 3 decibels. Individual rooms can have an effect of plus or minus 15 decibels. As a result, sound quality can be influenced as much by subwoofer location as by the human ear's perception of sound.

If your boat has the Syn-6, then that's whats driving the in-boats and can driver either a single 4 ohm sub using the open chnls 5 and 6 with 600 available watts, or 1 or 2 2 ohm subs with an available 300W eac on chnls 5 and 6. So, the Syn-6 can power a mild 4 ohm DVC 10 wired in parallel and wired to chnl 6 or 2 of them and use both chnls, or a moderate 2 ohm DVC wired in series or a single 4 ohm 12" wired across chnls 5/6. So you have a couple of options.

If you are not a bass-head, then with only 4 in-boats driven @ 60W each, I wouldnt worry about going with a 12" driving @ 600W unless you want. A nice 10" 4 ohm DVC will do what you seem to be looking for. Now, on the flip side, with good tuning and use of the optional sub remote level control, you can really dial back the output, so going with a moderate 12 receiving the full 600 available watts is a pro. Deeper bass due to the extra surface are, plenty of head-room with 600w, so you will not be cranking the crap out of trying to get more output.

The next thing to decide on is if you want to tackle the task of contracting an enclosure or keep it simple and go with an infinite-baffle (free air) configuration like Tige does OEM with the XS-10fa. This just requires finding the OEM spot and cutting the hole out, mount the sub and connect the sub wires which are probably already there. Done right, an IB sub can and will offer the needed bass to fill in those missing notes. Good thing is, the Tige boats are one of the best for doing an IB sub as they have a solid bulkhead under the helm that offer complete front/rear isolation and then a large comportment to act as the enclosure. Down side is, there are not many 4 ohm DVC IB subs out there, and a not many single 4 ohm coil 10's that will handle 600W. Thats a ton of power to a sub with now small enclosure for added dampening. I do not know how these are coming from Tige now that Wet Sounds only offers the 4 ohm SVC 10fa. Wiring the 4 ohm SVC to only 1 chnl nets 155W. Thats a little IMO, but certainly doable.

If you are up to building an enclosure, it will pay dividends in terms of sound quality and output. It also widens the options greatly. A sub in an enclosure will always trump an IB.

If you decide to go the enclosure route, you need to make sure you get the horse before the cart. The boat is going to dictate the gross external dimension of the enclosure. This is what you have to work within. based on that, you need to then choose a sub that will compliment the available size, or smaller. You then need to take the available amp power into consideration. This will further steer you to a particular woofer. price wise, theres typically not a huge difference in cost between a 10 and a 12 within the same series or model. So dont let that be a factor. A 12" will typically require a little more box volume, translated to external dimension, then a 10. So let the available space make that decision. You also need to decide whether you want to go with a simple, more forgiving sealed enclosure or go with a more complex ported. ported leaves a smaller margin of error, so the available gross dimensions will need to include the port structure in the box, but the space taken up by the port structure is not part of the subs recommend volume. So a ported enclosure will require a larger enclosure over all, then a sealed setup. This could be a deciding factor between a 10 in a ported or a 12 in a sealed as an example.

Dont get bogged down in a brand name. there are plenty of good subs out there. The best one is the one thats done right.

[barry1me]

here a couple of good explanations:



If your boat has the Syn-6, then that's whats driving the in-boats and can driver either a single 4 ohm sub using the open chnls 5 and 6 with 600 available watts, or 1 or 2 2 ohm subs with an available 300W eac on chnls 5 and 6. So, the Syn-6 can power a mild 4 ohm DVC 10 wired in parallel and wired to chnl 6 or 2 of them and use both chnls, or a moderate 2 ohm DVC wired in series or a single 4 ohm 12" wired across chnls 5/6. So you have a couple of options.

If you are not a bass-head, then with only 4 in-boats driven @ 60W each, I wouldnt worry about going with a 12" driving @ 600W unless you want. A nice 10" 4 ohm DVC will do what you seem to be looking for. Now, on the flip side, with good tuning and use of the optional sub remote level control, you can really dial back the output, so going with a moderate 12 receiving the full 600 available watts is a pro. Deeper bass due to the extra surface are, plenty of head-room with 600w, so you will not be cranking the crap out of trying to get more output.

The next thing to decide on is if you want to tackle the task of contracting an enclosure or keep it simple and go with an infinite-baffle (free air) configuration like Tige does OEM with the XS-10fa. This just requires finding the OEM spot and cutting the hole out, mount the sub and connect the sub wires which are probably already there. Done right, an IB sub can and will offer the needed bass to fill in those missing notes. Good thing is, the Tige boats are one of the best for doing an IB sub as they have a solid bulkhead under the helm that offer complete front/rear isolation and then a large comportment to act as the enclosure. Down side is, there are not many 4 ohm DVC IB subs out there, and a not many single 4 ohm coil 10's that will handle 600W. Thats a ton of power to a sub with now small enclosure for added dampening. I do not know how these are coming from Tige now that Wet Sounds only offers the 4 ohm SVC 10fa. Wiring the 4 ohm SVC to only 1 chnl nets 155W. Thats a little IMO, but certainly doable.

If you are up to building an enclosure, it will pay dividends in terms of sound quality and output. It also widens the options greatly. A sub in an enclosure will always trump an IB.

If you decide to go the enclosure route, you need to make sure you get the horse before the cart. The boat is going to dictate the gross external dimension of the enclosure. This is what you have to work within. based on that, you need to then choose a sub that will compliment the available size, or smaller. You then need to take the available amp power into consideration. This will further steer you to a particular woofer. price wise, theres typically not a huge difference in cost between a 10 and a 12 within the same series or model. So dont let that be a factor. A 12" will typically require a little more box volume, translated to external dimension, then a 10. So let the available space make that decision. You also need to decide whether you want to go with a simple, more forgiving sealed enclosure or go with a more complex ported. ported leaves a smaller margin of error, so the available gross dimensions will need to include the port structure in the box, but the space taken up by the port structure is not part of the subs recommend volume. So a ported enclosure will require a larger enclosure over all, then a sealed setup. This could be a deciding factor between a 10 in a ported or a 12 in a sealed as an example.

Dont get bogged down in a brand name. there are plenty of good subs out there. The best one is the one thats done right.

I honestly am not sure if I have the 6 or the 4 syn model amp. I will find out as soon as boat gets out of storage. I have been looking at the RE audio stuff I hear its pretty decent.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...o-SXX12D2.html

with possibly this amp

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-R1200-1D.html

I deffinatly want some sort of sealed box. Have to determine if ported is the trick or not.

[chpthril]

I honestly am not sure if I have the 6 or the 4 syn model amp. I will find out as soon as boat gets out of storage. I have been looking at the RE audio stuff I hear its pretty decent.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...o-SXX12D2.html

with possibly this amp

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-R1200-1D.html

I deffinatly want some sort of sealed box. Have to determine if ported is the trick or not.

RE's are great subs, but that doesnt mean the SXX is the right one for you. You need to get the horse before the cart. If your boat does indeed have a Syn-6, you have 600 available watts sitting there, so you may not need to even buy an amp. Also, the SXX on a 1200W amp is not just going to fill in those missing bass notes, its gonna ripple the water. Also, some subs are best suited for sealed enclosures and some are better suited for ported, based on their T/S parameters. As noted, the boat is going to dictate a lot.

[barry1me]

RE's are great subs, but that doesnt mean the SXX is the right one for you. You need to get the horse before the cart. If your boat does indeed have a Syn-6, you have 600 available watts sitting there, so you may not need to even buy an amp. Also, the SXX on a 1200W amp is not just going to fill in those missing bass notes, its gonna ripple the water. Also, some subs are best suited for sealed enclosures and some are better suited for ported, based on their T/S parameters. As noted, the boat is going to dictate a lot.

my stock setup is 4 wet sound 650s with a syn micro, and either a Syn 4 or syn 6 powering my two rev 8s on the tower. If that helps at all.