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    Battery Switch Position

    For all of you with newer throttle by wire setups what position do you run your battery switch in? I was having some trouble with my throttle cutting in and out yesterday and after doing some research it seems like one possible cause is a difference in the voltage on the two batteries causing the ECM to think there is a problem. It doesnt really make sense to me since I typically set the switch to one battery or the other but it sounds like it has been the fix for a few people. Anyways, this got me thinking about what is the proper position to run the battery switch to keep even charge on the batteries. Should I alternate trips setting it on 1 and then 2 the next trip or should I always have it on the 1 and 2 setting?

    #2
    If the boat is a 2006 or newer w/Marine Power TBW and the Tige EIDB dual battery option, it only has an ON/OFF switch, so ON would be the only option, This system used a diode type isolater and the stereo and other accessories drew directly off the house battery. Engine management drew off the cranking battery.

    But yes, the 06 and some 07 Ve's with the MP TBW where wired with the ECM seeing a voltage input form both batteries. this could result in a false code 81 IIRC.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      so on the new z3s the battery switch is eather off or on? the battery system regulates witch battery is charging and being drawn from is this corect as i was trying to figure this out and could find no info in the manual?

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        #4
        Hmm, I am pretty sure mine has the old style switch with 1,2, 1 and 2 as the three options. That would make sense because my boat is an 03 so it probably pre dates the newer on/off system. If that is the case then I am guessing that the voltage delta between the two batteries isnt the source of my throttle problems.

        It is interesting trying to figure these things out since my boat has a lot of the 03 systems but the engine is a much newer (I am guessing 2009 or 2010) 6.0 tbw motor with only about 11 hours on it.

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          #5
          Originally posted by luke View Post
          so on the new z3s the battery switch is eather off or on? the battery system regulates witch battery is charging and being drawn from is this corect as i was trying to figure this out and could find no info in the manual?
          Nope. Tige has been using PCM engines since 2009 or 2010 and I think the battery switch system was changed in 2011 or 2012. They no use the Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch that has OFF/ON/Combine. They still use the same Isolater to my knowledge. Both batteries will receive a charge when the engine is running and be isolated from each other when the engine is off.
          Last edited by chpthril; 02-25-2013, 04:53 PM.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #6
            Originally posted by cpropes2005 View Post
            Hmm, I am pretty sure mine has the old style switch with 1,2, 1 and 2 as the three options. That would make sense because my boat is an 03 so it probably pre dates the newer on/off system. If that is the case then I am guessing that the voltage delta between the two batteries isnt the source of my throttle problems.

            It is interesting trying to figure these things out since my boat has a lot of the 03 systems but the engine is a much newer (I am guessing 2009 or 2010) 6.0 tbw motor with only about 11 hours on it.
            I doubt your system is wired the way they where from the factory in 06. The problem was how the original harness was designed, in thah when the EIDB system was added to the boat, it split the B+ cables off the single battery to two batteries. The ECM had 2 B+ inputs, and when the EIDB was done, one ended up on the new house battery. This created the issue. id be willing to bet that if your system is having a TBW issue, its the good 'ol TPS on the back of the throttle assembly. But, there are other issues that will cause a no-throttle limp-mode also.
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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              #7
              Ok that makes more sense now. Would the tps ever cause it to stutter and die? The full history of the issue is that every time I have had the boat out it ran great except for every once in a while it would have a momentary stutter when trying to get up on plane. It would only be a second or two and then it would recover and power up just fine. I thought it was the weird way I had to mount my PP servo getting caught on something but now I dont think that is the case.

              Yesterday though we were cruising just above idle for a pretty good while and then out of nowhere it began running very rough and eventually died. It eventually restarted while still running rough and would not throttle up at all. It died again and on the third restart it seemed to reset and I was able to throttle up while out of gear. I then put it in gear and got back to the boat ramp with what seemed to be full power. I dropped everyone off at the dock and then it died on me again when pulling up to the trailer but it restarted and seemed fine while pulling on the trailer.

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