Installing LED strip lighting

[trudelle]

I would like to install some LED strip lights in my 2006 22V and was hoping for some additional info/help. CHPTHRIL where you at buddy... lol. Anyway i would like to install prob a total of 3x 5m 300 led lights and would like to control all of them with the same remote controller. I want to put one roll in the Bow, one in the main area, and one split in half into the rear compartments next to the engine where my subs are. I am getting confused on what to buy and would like to do this as inexpensively as possible. I was hoping to use the dash switch that my factory courtsy lights were hooked up to. any help/info on getting this done would be appreciated.

thanks

[whitlock87]

Costco has a nice kit
Not sure if it is water tight though

[Timmy!]

Depending on which kind you get, you will not need a full roll in the bow, just a few small strips. The stuff I got off of ebay is ridiculously bright! The 4 cupholder rings in the main cabin light up the whole boat.

[chpthril]

I do not buy any of my LED stuff in kits. I buy the 5m rolls in what ever color or in RGB. I cut the strips in the needed length (the strips can be cut every three LED pods) and solder my leads on to each strip.

For RGB, I go with a controller that does what im looking to do. They can range from a simple single chnl RGB with remote up to some multi-chnl units that can be programmed via laptop to do just about whether you want and will interface with your music source.

For you, 2-3 rolls should be plenty, but take a quick measurement. It sounds like a simple single chnl controller with remote will work. Most allow for dimming and have pre-programmed pulse and/or flash modes, as well as the ability to do some custom colors.

Are you going to swap out the factory courtesy light bulbs for an RGB? If not, I would leave them as is and either install a dedicated switch to turn on/off B+ to the controller, or just use its on/off button. IMO, having the courtesy lights on at the same time will kinda dilute the RGB effect. The controller has a B+ and GND terminal and the all 4 leads from the strips get wired to the 4 outputs: B+, R, G and B is how they are typically labeled.

[rcaroll]

chpthril - Would you have to have a wiring diagram for how you run the wires for power and to the switch? Do you have a controller you recommend?

[chpthril]

chpthril - Would you have to have a wiring diagram for how you run the wires for power and to the switch? Do you have a controller you recommend?

LEDs draw such a low current, that we can come right off the boats' factory fuse/breaker box or under helm B+ and GND BUSS bars.

If you have an open fuse terminal, terminate right there with B+ run that will go to the switch's constant side. be sure to install an appropriate size fuse, about 5A, maybe 10A depending on how many LEDs are being used. If you come off of an unused breaker, make sure the to swap out to an appropriate sized breaker. We do not want the circuit protection to exceed the capacity of the wiring or LED strip.

If you are using an existing but unused switch, its probably already pre-wired, so you just need to terminate controller's B+ to the switched output, but again, check the fuse or breaker size and adjust as needed.

The ground for the controller can be terminated directly to a ground bar or stud under the helm.

For a single LED color, you can run the strips B+ wire(s) directly to the switched output, not controller needed unless you want them to blink, flash or dance along with the music.

I suppose I could draw an actual diagram if needed.

[trudelle]

I will go RGB 5050, cut the 5mm roll to length. Any suggested controllers... I assume I will need one with multiple channels and will be able to handle approx 2x 5m 300 led each. Also what about the solder less connections as I would prefer not to solder. I have been looking on amazon any company on there "better" then the other. I will leave the courtesy lights alone...I think I have a open switch on the panel. And a diagram if possible would be greatly appreciated
Thanks

[chpthril]

Unless you want half the strips doing something different then the other half, you will only need a single channel controller.

The solderless connectors will work fine your your application, but they are too bulky for doing speaker and cup-holder rings.

[trudelle]

see this is where i get confused... if the 300 rgb led 5m roll has a rating for 6amps 72watts and i use this roll plus an additional roll then the single channel controller with remotes that i see are rated for 6 amps would not work right? would i need a controller rated at least 12 amps? and what about the watts? each strip is 72watts does this make a difference in the controller?

sorry for all the ?'s but novice electrician if that.... lol

[chpthril]

Well, you certainly do need to calculate the total current draw of the length of LEDs being used and try to stay within the specs of the controller. Ive measured the current draw of a 300 led/5m strip of RGB with all 3 colors lite and it was 4.6A. If the 2 chnl controller you are looking at it 6A per chnl, then I think you should be good.

[WakerideN]

Well, you certainly do need to calculate the total current draw of the length of LEDs being used and try to stay within the specs of the controller. Ive measured the current draw of a 300 led/5m strip of RGB with all 3 colors lite and it was 4.6A. If the 2 chnl controller you are looking at it 6A per chnl, then I think you should be good.

chp.. put down the keyboard... solder man solder! LOL

[trudelle]

so could i use this

http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Con...d+5050+rgb+300

and use 2x RGB 300led 5m strips like these

http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-TT-...rds=taotronics

[talltigeguy]

so could i use this

http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Con...d+5050+rgb+300

and use 2x RGB 300led 5m strips like these

http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-TT-...rds=taotronics

It says that if you cut the strips, then you don't damage the rest. Can I cut the strips, then bridge them with a wire, and then continue the rest of the RGB strip?

My particular boat would need longer than 16.4 feet. Or am I better just getting 25 feet to be sure I get all the way around?

[chpthril]

chp.. put down the keyboard... solder man solder! LOL

yeah yeah yeah I soldered and tested about a 3rd of the strips today. I'll have yours ready 'bout the time you decide which in-boats there gonna be wrapped around

[chpthril]

It says that if you cut the strips, then you don't damage the rest. Can I cut the strips, then bridge them with a wire, and then continue the rest of the RGB strip?

My particular boat would need longer than 16.4 feet. Or am I better just getting 25 feet to be sure I get all the way around?

The strips are marked every 3 LEDs and can be cut to the length you need. The 300 LED strips are about 1.5" per section of 3 LEDs, so its easy to cut to near exact length when running a strip. With speaker and cup holder rings, its a little tougher.

You can do 1 of 2 ways. You can wire each strip in parallel or home-run each strip around to the switch/controller. personally, I like to parallel each strip, especially when doing 18 cup-holders and 8 speakers and a sub plus other LEDs to fill in. I run a single 2 conductor ( for single color) or 4 conductor (for RGB around the boat start at the furthest LED. I then pick up each LED strip along the way and tap them into the main line until I end up at the switch or controller. Far less wire and mush cleaner. if doing multiple zones, then each zone needs to be done this way. For me, any lights above the deck are on their own zone, thats 2 zones if we do tower speaker rings. To control those with a single RGB controller, just interrupt the B+ with a rocker switch just for that zone.