Winter Mods???

[racerdave]

I can not wait to get my boat back. I was looking at some bennett trim tabs on ebay.... thought about picking them up rebending the tabs to try and make my own surf tab. I am pretty handy with a metal break and TIG welder

[Nobody]

I'm resurrecting this discussion from 2nd page simple because it's fun to read what everyone has planned for the winter. Hopefully more will chime in.

[racerdave]

anyone have any winterizing tips??? I am going to do it myself and need to do it in the next month or so.... I am counting not letting my engine freeze a winter mod

[chpthril]

anyone have any winterizing tips??? I am going to do it myself and need to do it in the next month or so.... I am counting not letting my engine freeze a winter mod

Well, the three most important things: add a fuel stabilizer before warming up engine to change oil and drain all the water. The particulars will change from boat to boat and engine to engine. Some like to add marine/RV antifreeze, but its not a must as air doesn't freeze. It seems that PCM doesn't have a service interval for the trans/v-drive unit, so just inspect the fluid. Charge batteries, grease the rudder box. Service trailer bearings.

[racerdave]

I usually run boat on automotive antifreeze when I get clean antifreeze out of engine i consider my boat winterized. This will be my first year with a true inboard. Doesn't our boats have trans-oil coolers? Do I need to do something extra to ensure my boats winter surviaval?

[chpthril]

I usually run boat on automotive antifreeze when I get clean antifreeze out of engine i consider my boat winterized. This will be my first year with a true inboard. Doesn't our boats have trans-oil coolers? Do I need to do something extra to ensure my boats winter surviaval?

Please use marine/RV antifreeze. Automotive is not good for the environment.

I posted this yesterday on another forum

The single biggest goal with winterizing is freeze protection, i'm sure most would agree. Preventing rust and corrosion with the use of a Marine/RV antifreeze is not a bad thing, especially if your boat is stored for a long period over the winter. For those like us, that have a long boating season and a short lay-up period, I do not think rust/corrosion protection is a must. In fact, im not sure I can recall a boat engine that has ever rusted from the inside out, thus requiring replacement. Although boat service and repair is not my primary thing, I do winterize for some of my long time customers. Most do not feel the need for antifreeze and do not ask for it. For those that do it needs to be done effectively.

I read and hear of so many boaters running 5-10 gallons of antifreeze through their engines on the muffs or fake-a-lake. Then there's some that fire up the engine and wait till they see pink running out the exhaust, then stop, thinking the block is full and protected. There are two holes in this theory. 1) Marine/RV antifreeze is best used @ 100%. its not like automotive coolant that is best effective when mixed with water. So, if there is any water in the block, it will dilute the antifreeze and raising its freeze point. 2) Even is the engine was warmed up with fresh water prior to swapping the hose over to the antifreeze bucket, the thermostat will close as soon as the cold antifreeze hits hit. At that point, the antifreeze will be diverted to the exhaust, which always has fresh water flow regardless of the thermostat, and then exist the exhaust. For those that run a little through til they see pink, have ended up with very little protection. Those running gallons and gallons through, will get some into the block, but it may be diluted and it took a lot to get what you got in there.

IMHO, the most effective way to fill the block with antifreeze for the winter, is to drain the block of all water, remove the thermostat housing and thermostat, and pour the antifreeze in until the block is full. For those will a semi-closed cooling system, you should be good to just run some through the heat exchanger, or just drain the the heat exchanger and leave it.

Also, I do not believe in leaving plugs out and hoses undone during winterizing. This requires more work in the spring. I always leave my boats turn-key ready for spring. Just my $.02

[racerdave]

It does not get super cold here I am sure I could lay a electric blanket on engine and sure it would be fine. I just want to be sure the cost of a crack in the head or block is not worth the price of a few gallons of antifreeze and a hour at most..... I was sure the newly formulated auto-antifreeze's are non toxic, I will pickup RV antifreeze though. After Mikes advice and a little research RV antifreeze is cheaper!!!

[racerdave]

isn't the temperature sending unit on the backside of the thermostat... taking the thermostat housing off seems like alot of work and risk couldn't you pull the temp sending unit out and fill from there? Just a thought

[tri_slarson]

Just got my boat three weeks ago.
Replacing all of the trailer lights with LED lights this weekend.

Plan to replace all in boat speakers with Wetsounds or Kicker.
Completely rewire amps and speakers.
New graphics.

[Nobody]

Just got my boat three weeks ago.
Replacing all of the trailer lights with LED lights this weekend.

Plan to replace all in boat speakers with Wetsounds or Kicker.
Completely rewire amps and speakers.
New graphics.

If at all possible....try to upgrade to the new 8" inboat speakers they have. They are double the 6" speakers.

[chpthril]

If at all possible....try to upgrade to the new 8" inboat speakers they have. They are double the 6" speakers.

The 808 is an phenomenal speaker, but they are double what?

Wet Sounds does not offer a 6" speaker, the XS and SW come in a 6.5" and 8" full-range.

The surface are of a 6.5" is 33.1 in/2. The surface area of an 8" is 50.2 in/2

650 power handling is 100/200 rms/peak
808 power handling is 125/250 rms/peak

650 weight is 7.8 p/pair, 808 is 13 p/pair

650 depth is 3.1" and the 808 needs 3.7

650 hole cutout 5" and the 808 is 7.1"

[Nobody]

The 808 is an phenomenal speaker, but they are double what?

Wet Sounds does not offer a 6" speaker, the XS and SW come in a 6.5" and 8" full-range.

The surface are of a 6.5" is 33.1 in/2. The surface area of an 8" is 50.2 in/2

650 power handling is 100/200 rms/peak
808 power handling is 125/250 rms/peak

650 weight is 7.8 p/pair, 808 is 13 p/pair

650 depth is 3.1" and the 808 needs 3.7

650 hole cutout 5" and the 808 is 7.1"

Chap, if you want to play engineer...then you win. The fundamental (simplistic) point I was trying to get across is the phenomenal performance over the 6", ooops.....6.5". My perspective is based on replacing two 6", ooops 6.5" and replacing them with 8" in the bow this summer. The 808's sound (to me) that they deliver double the capacity (sound, base, performance) of a 6", ooops 6.5". You install this stuff all the time, so you would know more than I would. Getting back to the original suggestion..........if there is ANY way you can replace your 6" (6.5") for 8", you will NOT regret it.

And based on all the engineering data that Chap so kindly provided, you can eliminate the guess work.

Thanks Chap!!!!

[tigeidaho]

Just ordered our ballast setup. Installing 2 enzo's with 2 fill and one drain pump each. A big thank you to chpthrll for all the help. Now to sit and stare out the window till the delivery driver arrives.

Also, ripping out all the stereo the previous owner installed. May use a couple of the pieces he installed but everything else is a complete redo.

Will be starting a thread as soon as material arrives. Before, during and after pics.