Draw on Battery problem

[Vicseek]

I recently replaced my "house" battery with a Deep Cell. It had only been two weeks since I last used the boat and I always switch the perko to "off" before I store the boat.
The Deep cell batt was totally dead yesterday and I recharged it before heading out to the lake. I have something that is drawing juice and draining the batt even with the master switch OFF.

Today I took a test light and put it in line with each neg terminal to see which one was still drawing current. I found one of the smaller ones still "hot" so I then removed (one at a time) connections from the positive side of the battery and found that when I disconnected the "red wire" circled in the pic the light went out. When I hooked it back up I could see a tiny spark and the test light remained on, this must be the culprit.

I haven't chased the wires down but does anybody know what this line powers? I'm thinking the amps to the stereo are at fault here.
Batteries.jpg

[chpthril]

By the size of it, i would amp or helm BUSS.

What style of battery switch does your 2010 have, simple ON/OF or OFF/ON/Combine? This will help to determine if something needs to be rewired. But, sounds like you have a decent load to pull down a battery in that short of time. Do you have a DVOM that you could actually measure the load? Sometimes knowing the draw can steer you toward things that pull that amount.....like a bulb or bilge pump.

[talltigeguy]

I had a relay go bad in the amplifier turn on wire, and amps would be on all the time. The previous owner never figured out why his batteries were completely dead if he didn't get his onboard charger plugged in.

Like CHP said, it would be nice to see how much draw it actually is.

[Vicseek]

I'll hook up an ameter today and see what she's pulling. I don't think it's the helm buss cause I had a buddy hold the test light while I got under the dash and flipped the 60amp breaker that powers the tige touch buss. The light stayed on so pulling individul fusses would be a waste of time I think

I've got to figure this out i've already ruined a 1year old Interstate cranking batt and don't want to ruin this deep cell batt as well, plus I don't really want to "rig" up a quick fix solution.

Thanks for the help guys!!

[chpthril]

I'll hook up an ameter today and see what she's pulling. I don't think it's the helm buss cause I had a buddy hold the test light while I got under the dash and flipped the 60amp breaker that powers the tige touch buss. The light stayed on so pulling individul fusses would be a waste of time I think

I've got to figure this out i've already ruined a 1year old Interstate cranking batt and don't want to ruin this deep cell batt as well, plus I don't really want to "rig" up a quick fix solution.

Thanks for the help guys!!

A draw on the "House" battery should not effect the main cranking, did it get drawn down as well?

[Ewok]

This is why I added an extra on/off switch for the house battery, it's wired through the ground cables. The factory on/off switch does not cut power to the house battery and helm switches can draw it down. The black switch on top is for the house battery. I turn both batteries off and plug in the charger after every trip and I haven't had a problem since.

[Ewok]

Forgot to paste the pic:

[Vicseek]

To answer some questions I have the simple ON/OFF perko switch, not the 1,2,Both like some.
I'll get to the current draw numbers today but the starting battery is fine and has been this whole time. I think the Helm "manual" switches (bilge, ballast, nav lights, horn) are all wired into power 100% of the time right?
Geez a wireing diagram would be awesome for my situation. Perhaps I'll email tige and see if they would release a PDF of one
I do like the switch setup Ewok, I may have to go that route.

[Vicseek]

Current Draw Update

Okay I measured it today. The wire that is circled (in the above pic) with the main perko switch OFF initially drew .59amps for 5 sec then went down and stayed at .3amps

It was weird, it initially drew the .6amps then I kept watching and in about 5sec it went down to the .3amps! Is it charging a capacitor or something?

How should I trouble shoot next?

[Ewok]

Do you turn off the switches under the helm on the circuit breaker pannel? That was the only way to prevent the house battery from being drawn down until I added the extra battery switch on the house battery. I do not have an amp installed on my boat so I do not have anything going directly to the battery, and my secondary switch disconnects the ground on the house battery so it was easier to get the single terminals on the switch instead of all the positive wires on house battery. Chpthrill helped me figure out the best way to isolate that battery with an extra switch.

[svtcobra50]

I had a small draw from my "radio" circuit and eventually moved all the connections to the 1-2-off switch so when it is off it really is. PITA setting all of the radio options and clock every time, but optimas are EXPENSIVE!

[chpthril]

I had a small draw from my "radio" circuit and eventually moved all the connections to the 1-2-off switch so when it is off it really is. PITA setting all of the radio options and clock every time, but optimas are EXPENSIVE!

The C post of the switch is actually the best place for the headunit MEM wire. Less chance of unwanted noise. But, a headunit should not run a good battery over a few weeks period.e

[chpthril]

Okay I measured it today. The wire that is circled (in the above pic) with the main perko switch OFF initially drew .59amps for 5 sec then went down and stayed at .3amps

It was weird, it initially drew the .6amps then I kept watching and in about 5sec it went down to the .3amps! Is it charging a capacitor or something?

How should I trouble shoot next?

Sounds like your boat has the tige EIDB. Knowing what that wire feeds is the first step. .5A is not a large loadg

[labrat]

To answer some questions I have the simple ON/OFF perko switch, not the 1,2,Both like some.
I'll get to the current draw numbers today but the starting battery is fine and has be
en this whole time. I think the Helm "manual" switches (bilge, ballast, nav lights, horn) are all wired into power 100% of the time right?
Geez a wireing diagram would be awesome for my situation. Perhaps I'll email tige and see if they would release a PDF of one
I do like the switch setup Ewok, I may have to go that route.

There is a wiring diagram from a 20V in the download section while not an exact match to your boat it will give you an idea or two of basic non EIDB wiring. You may be able to get Harvey to send you a PDF for your boat. Good luck.