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    loading trailer

    Just wondering how you guys are loading your trailer? Are you powering on and off or floating on and off? I Powered on and off with my i/o and not sure if I should be doing this with my soon to arrive 22v.
    Formertigeowners.com
    I used to be a member in the past.

    #2
    I asked the same question not to long ago. Just do a search there are about 3 threads on it.
    I bump mine into and out of gear every couple of seconds.
    Everything happens for a reason
    I live my post whore life 30 seconds at a time

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      #3
      thanks for the info CP3 that's what I did with my i/o but most of the v drives out on the lake seem to be floated on and off and the only thing that I could figure was that the wife couldn't back the trailer or load and unload the boat comfortably.
      Formertigeowners.com
      I used to be a member in the past.

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        #4
        Here is the secret guys. It really depends on trailer depth. The trailer needs to be shallow, most likely with the wheel wells barely covered in water (it will depend on the ramp). The other secret is to never take the boat out of forward. As soon as you put it in neutral you lose all steering and will probably start to drift/wander/fishtail. It will seem like you are coming on to the trailer to fast, but with the trailer shallow it will stop the boat and you will have total control all the way on.

        But you cant go wrong with floating it on either. I also tell my new customers that you should float it on for the first year, until you get real comfy doing it. Props are expensive!

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          #5
          I'll echo condor. On the average ramp I have the wheel wells just visible out of the water. Start straight out, pop the throttle just one click into gear and then don't touch the throttle until you've stopped on the trailer. (Usually about 2 feet from the bumper) Then steadily accelerate until you have the "eye" touching the bumper. Then done.

          The only exeption to the rule is if it's windy, then sometimes it takes more juice to keep it straight, or if the ramp is really steep all bets are off. Then it's basically "floating" regardless.

          The only other exeption is that if there's not a concrete ramp, its inconsiderate to power on due to prop wash pushing the bottom of the lake/river away from the launch thus making a very steep ramp.

          The other reason I like powering on the trailer is that it keeps the boat nicely aligned on the trailer bunks. If you float in and then drive out, sometimes the boat can be out of whack on the trailer and then you've got to dip it back in to fix it. This is especially a problem on a windy day or on a strong current river that's not well protected.

          That's my 2 cents anyway.

          Mike

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            #6
            Just a quick add-on to what has been said here.

            If your gonna power on, or off for that matter, be sure to dip your trailer so that all the bunks get wet, this helps decrease the friction of the bunk carpet on the hull. Saves on the carpet, and helps to keep scratches off the gel coat.
            "I want to know God's thoughts, the rest are just details"

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              #7
              Another trick is shoot a little soap or binding lube on the bunks out of the water before you drive it on. This also helps for taking it off, if you get the bunks alittle wet before unhooking it!!

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                #8
                My wife saw a new Tige owner using Pam cooking spray on the bunks before he loaded. Anyone try this?

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                  #9
                  dont be a panzie just drive it on the trailer

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by condor86
                    The other secret is to never take the boat out of forward.
                    I usually hit my trailer at around 30mph.

                    LOL!

                    Yeah no kidding there is ZERO control on an inboard without power!

                    I agree that putting the trailer in too deep makes it much harder.

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