fuel water separator thingy

[chpthril]

Now, taking the filter element out one would think it should just drop out. Nope! Yank on it because it's held in with a rib. Of course doing this 3 feet down inside your engine compartment could prove a knuckle buster of which you might think your a knuckle for attempting this task yourself.

This is where maintenance cost go sky high having someone else do this type of service. What a job! It feels good to be at the 50 yard line.

That thing looks brand new.......I see now reason to have changed it J/K

[Nobody]

That thing looks brand new.......I see now reason to have changed it J/K

Had fuel pressure loss, the inline was definitely plugged up but you don't know until you get in there and do an inspection on these components. 275 hours later, it seems logical to do something.....even if it means a day job. Correct? Otherwise NOBODY knows.

[chpthril]

Had fuel pressure loss, the inline was definitely plugged up but you don't know until you get in there and do an inspection on these components. 275 hours later, it seems logical to do something.....even if it means a day job. Correct? Otherwise NOBODY knows.

You know I was just yanking your tarpon line, right The recommended interval is 250 hrs I believe.

[Nobody]

The only person allowed to yank on my fishing pole is NICKYPOO.

Boats are hard work!!!!

Where are those 8" inboat speakers Tim promised????

[lancehon]

Took me all of ten minutes to change mine, it was a snap.

[scoot18]

Thank you very much for the inputs.....yes, spin off, but this puppy dog was NOT coming off inside the boat 3' down under. It's taking my full body weight to get it loose and I'm still working on it, on a vise of course.

Good God!

Can I apply grease so it comes off easier the next time??

You guys have certainly been lucky. In my attempts I have encountered the same strains in getting it to spin off as nobody. If you have the stock ballast tanks, it makes it that much more difficult of an area to work in. I've found it is well worth the extra 15 to 20 min, just to remove the entire unit and then work with it on a bench and vice. It's not worth all of the straining and cussing, much less doing it all half upside down in the rear locker of a boat. I do apply small amount of di-electric silicone to o-ring when reassembling. Seems to work very well.

[Nobody]

You guys have certainly been lucky. In my attempts I have encountered the same strains in getting it to spin off as nobody. If you have the stock ballast tanks, it makes it that much more difficult of an area to work in. I've found it is well worth the extra 15 to 20 min, just to remove the entire unit and then work with it on a bench and vice. It's not worth all of the straining and cussing, much less doing it all half upside down in the rear locker of a boat. I do apply small amount of di-electric silicone to o-ring when reassembling. Seems to work very well.

Thanks Scoot, the di-electric silicone is a good idea. I'll use it too.

[IDBoating]

Wow, by comparison my PCM Fuel Cell (which incorporates the fuel/water separating filter) is a breeze to service. OK, it's a bit of a pain, but that's only because of where it is located relative to the engine stringers. And even that got easier when I did my ultra-ballast mods - removing the locker floors really improved access back there.

Sometimes I wonder why people make things so difficult.

[Gwyn]

Not sure if I am glad I read this or not, was planning to do this on Friday ! Boat is outside under shade cover but its already 99 degrees here.
Been having a little trouble at low revs when backing the throttle off, so this is my first port of call
is there another filter other than this?

[IDBoating]

Yes, there is an inline fuel filter too. Easy to swap out, just two hose clamps.

You have a relatively new boat ('08). Hopefully you have a PCM engine with their new FCC design, like mine. Compared to what I'm reading here, it's much easier!

[Nobody]

Not sure if I am glad I read this or not, was planning to do this on Friday ! Boat is outside under shade cover but its already 99 degrees here.
Been having a little trouble at low revs when backing the throttle off, so this is my first port of call
is there another filter other than this?

Go for the in-line filter first, that's the one that will typically starve your fuel flow. You'll need the fuel line / AC line service tool to do the job. These things:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2610280...Types&var=sbar


IN-Line Fuel Filter replacement:
WIX filter (PN 33481)
Napa Gold 3737

Filter is hard to fine, I'm sure your dealer would have one but it will cost you a few dollars more...often worth it considering they'll dump a boat load of knowledge and experience in your lap.

[IDBoating]

Really? Swapping out the inline filter isn't just a matter of two hose clamps and some 3/8th's fuel line?!? Has been on every boat and jetski I've ever worked on so far, two and four stroke, inboard and outboard, including my Tige.

Can you bypass the existing filter and install a normal inline one instead?

[Nobody]

This is it.....it was relatively easy. On top of the engine held in place by a large SS hose clamp. 3 lines, bing - bang - boom.

I tossed the SS clamp because it's not used. Hooked the ground wire directly to the fuel filter.

Dom @ Forte's had it in stock (as usual), and he said to add some Sentry Gasoline Plus fuel treatment additive to help disperse the water in the gas tank. Since Dom is always right, I bought a 32 oz bottle.

http://fishsoutheastern.com/sentry-g...uel-treatment/